Keeping dump valves from freezing

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Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Posts
11
Location
Cottonwood Heights, UT
We have a 2016 Evo by Forest River T2050 travel trailer with the "Arctic Package." That package includes an insulated and enclosed underbelly, increased insulation all the way around, and tank heater pads. The water lines to each appliance and fixture run around the inside of the trailer rather than between the walls, with the exception of the hot and cold lines leading from the water heater to the kitchen sink, which is on a pedestal. However, that one runs just below the thin floor and above the tanks and underbelly insulation, so I'm not terribly concerned about that one freezing, either, as long as we maintain a reasonable temperature inside the rig.

We intend to do some winter camping this season at several different ski resorts. Unfortunately, Forest River didn't see protecting the dump valves as anything important when putting together their "Arctic Package." The pipes to the dump valves drop out of the insulated underbelly before terminating at the valves, leaving them rather exposed to the elements and prone to freezing up.

As that's got the potential for a messy disaster in cold weather, we decided to do something about it. We've frost-proofed our dump valves and exterior plumbing, and made a video as we completed the job to share our idea:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KABF205es_U

I welcome your feedback, including any weaknesses you still see, or any better ideas around this subject.
 
Evan tho you are in freezing temps,, the water is only on one side of the valve,, the other side is the tank that you can put RV antifreeze into along with what ever you use for oder.>>>Dan
 
Utclmjmpr said:
Evan tho you are in freezing temps,, the water is only on one side of the valve,, the other side is the tank that you can put RV antifreeze into along with what ever you use for oder.>>>Dan

Now I'm confused. One side of a RV tank drain/gate valve is open to the atmosphere so there's no water and the other side is the tank side with a bunch of crap there.
 
I would have built a box to put around the pipes including a cover over the actual valves, added insulation and a heat source to that so that everything was enclosed and protected from road debris.  You would have to ensure the box is watertight.  I think you will have to repair this at every stop if the winter roads are anything like what we had in Montana and experienced in our travels in the winter, ice chips the size or rocks and boulders etc.

Just my thoughts on this, YMMV,
 
Adding some potable water anti-freeze to the waste tanks is a far simpler solution for most people, but I suppose it could get expensive if you were dumping regularly while camping in a sub-freezing region.
 
yeah,

me too,

I just dumped a gallon of RV antifreeze in each of the holding tanks,

the fresh water tank, I just left the drain valves open. hard to freeze if they are open....
 
Jim Godward said:
I would have built a box to put around the pipes including a cover over the actual valves, added insulation and a heat source to that so that everything was enclosed and protected from road debris.  You would have to ensure the box is watertight.  I think you will have to repair this at every stop if the winter roads are anything like what we had in Montana and experienced in our travels in the winter, ice chips the size or rocks and boulders etc.

Just my thoughts on this, YMMV,

I agree with Jim G.  I have towed in the winter through the Midwest.  The U-tube video solution would be good up to about 5 miles per hour.  After that the wind, ice, snow, and salt will destroy it quickly.  Also the foil on the PVC pipe will block radiant heat from the heat tape and is too thin to conduct much heat between the loops.
 
The only time I've had a problem with the valve freezing was when I was ready to open it.
If you can wait until it's warm enough then that's not a problem either.
 
I like the idea, but why not use rubber pipe insulation rather than the fiberglass insulation and all that tape?
I think the pipe insulation would be much more durable.

https://www.gamut.com/p/low-temperature-rubber-pipe-insulation-NjE2NzEz?gpid=560548&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o1&scid=scplp703W795&sc_intid=703W795&gclid=Cj0KCQiAvrfSBRC2ARIsAFumcm99ER3jPPeXIysbXoLPIAtZ8bEIeaHKFU8zsUjXzzkYspvJiO1TLhoaAtIqEALw_wcB
 
Jeff in Ferndale Wa said:
I like the idea, but why not use rubber pipe insulation rather than the fiberglass insulation and all that tape?
I think the pipe insulation would be much more durable.

https://www.gamut.com/p/low-temperature-rubber-pipe-insulation-NjE2NzEz?gpid=560548&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o1&scid=scplp703W795&sc_intid=703W795&gclid=Cj0KCQiAvrfSBRC2ARIsAFumcm99ER3jPPeXIysbXoLPIAtZ8bEIeaHKFU8zsUjXzzkYspvJiO1TLhoaAtIqEALw_wcB


    And....would not gain weight when wet!    Plus...wet fiberglass loses much of it’s insulating ability
 
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