Traveling During Sub-freezing Weather

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Yes and yes. We run one or both furnaces in our coach while underway in cold weather. We've been in temperatures down to -4 deg F and stayed quite comfortable.
 
We only run the furnace in our trailer when it is below freezing, but we definitely have done it. We don?t leave Salt Lake City for warmer climes until after Christmas, and it is generally too cold to not run the furnace while traveling. I definitely don?t want all my things freezing.
 
The reason people run the furnace is to keep waterlines and tanks from freezing. If your trailer is winterized, it wont need heat. If it has water in the lines and tanks, I suggest some rv antifreeze in both waste tanks to protect the valves.
 
    I should have added that: if you plan on traveling in freezing temperatures with “any” snow/freezing water, etc. should only be done only “if” you have a completely enclosed underbelly. For the reasons mentioned above....any exposed piping will accumulate potentially hundreds of pounds of ice, and could do much damage to your drain lines, etc.

  Also, to travel with water in unit... a well insulated RV and enclosed underbelly are pretty much required (if it gets pretty cold).
 
We are leaving in a couple days to head to Northern Indiana from St Louis metro.  My TT is sitting in my driveway right now with the thermostat set to 50 degrees.  I have used forced air to blow out the lines using the city hook up.  The tanks are drained (including the hot water heater) and I have put a bit of antifreeze in the traps, the grey and black tanks and there is a bit in each toilet. 

I'm not going to run my furnace for the 5.5 hour trip.  We will be setting up in my parents driveway where temps are going to range from lows around 10 to highs around 20.  It's going to be cold. 

My TT has a full 4 seasons package and I believe it's a decent one. 

If I was traveling much further I would have done a full winterization. 

I have 1 gallon jugs of water dedicated to either sink use or toilet use.  This is so I can monitor approx. how much antifreeze to add to the water going into the tanks.  I want to run a dilution rate of 2 parts water to 1 part antifreeze.  That should keep it protected to about zero. 

This way there is no need to flush our my lines when I arrive and if someone is traveling from a northern state to a southern state this strategy may work for them and make getting set up in a warmer climate easier without needing to complete a full de-winterization. 

Hope that may help. 

Thanks. 


 
This is so I can monitor approx. how much antifreeze to add to the water going into the tanks.

If you are talking about RV or potable water antifreeze, then I seem to remember (not sure of this but...) you cannot dilute it with water and expect it to remain as antifreeze. It is meant to be used "pure".
 
Please keep in mind that blowing the water lines works often but it does not prevent residual water from gathering in the  low points and the low point drain valves. I am with the group that uses anti-freeze in the water lines, P traps with the excess running into the gray and black tanks.

Thinning anti-freeze certainly reduces it effectiveness but we usually add Murphy's Oil soap to lube the valve slides. Even if the tanks freeze, they only contain a couple gallons of water, which usually is not an issue.






 
RGP said:
Please keep in mind that blowing the water lines works often but it does not prevent residual water from gathering in the  low points and the low point drain valves. I am with the group that uses anti-freeze in the water lines, P traps with the excess running into the gray and black tanks.

I leave the low point drain valves open. Never had a problem...
 
All of the propane appliance manuals I have read warn users to shut them down and shut off supply valves before moving the RV.  I believe there are significant fire issues with running them while traveling at highway speeds.
 
Millions of RV'ers travel with the fridge on LP while underway without any issues. Others also run the furnace in cold weather for comfort. The engine heater in a large motorhome is not enough to keep the interior warm in very cold weather. Engine/driveline fires account for about 75% of all vehicle fires according to insurance statistics.
 
OldLittleFoot said:
All of the propane appliance manuals I have read warn users to shut them down and shut off supply valves before moving the RV.  I believe there are significant fire issues with running them while traveling at highway speeds.

Don't believe that it's because of fire. It's a liability issue. If they came out and said it was OK to travel with all the propane and something did happen, who would have to bite the bullet. Not the homeowner for sure.?
 
OldLittleFoot said:
All of the propane appliance manuals I have read warn users to shut them down and shut off supply valves before moving the RV.  I believe there are significant fire issues with running them while traveling at highway speeds.
I can see if it is a folded tent camper there might be an issue. However all propane tanks must have a built in emergency shut off valve. If you have an accident the propane will be shut off.
So HAPPY NEW YEAR  and safe travel.
Bill
 
Regarding the RV antifreeze issue:
I left a bottle of propylene glycol RV antifreeze outside.  The temperature dropped to about 0 deg F.  The liquid in the bottle turned to slush.  It did not seem to expand like ice does, but it was no longer liquid.
Will it expand if you add water or murphy's oil soap to it?  I don't know.
Undiluted RV antifreeze is rated to -50 deg F.  That specification does not mean it will remain a liquid.  It means it will not burst a copper pipe at -50.
I found references to two methods of winterizing RV water systems.  The one I have used for about 10 years is to flush the system with RV antifreeze.  It has always worked for my central Wisconsin location. The other is to blow out the lines using 30 psi compressed air.  Some experts recommend opening low point valves after blow out.  Others say it is not necessary.
Flushing the RV antifreeze is an issue.  First don't use Walmart RV antifreeze.  It is alcohol based and tastes terrible and is hard to flush.  Second, don't take your winterized trailer to Big Bend National Park in Texas and expect to flush your system with out protest.  The park wants you to bring water, not use excess water.
If you blow out your pipes, should you stop at any auto service station and use their compressed air?  Those compressed air systems frequently contain water, rust, oil, and possibly other contaminants.
 
Danny Pyle said:
Remember to shut off any propane appliances before refueling vehicle!
Some do, and others, like us, never have done so. As noted, propane devices have a cut off. If the worry is the igniter blowing up gasoline fumes, don?t fuel where you can smell gasoline.
 
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