Installing a Progressive Industries hard wired EMS

I've been using a Surge Guard surge suppressor but based upon a recent experience which took out my inverter and microwave I'm planning on installing a hard wired Progressive. A couple questions for those that have the hard wired version:

• I see two models, one with a remote display and one with the display built-in. The latter sells for about $60 less and I'm wondering if I really need a remote display
• I presume the wiring of the unit is fairly straightforward - remove the power cord from the transfer switch and mount to the EMS, then wire the EMS to the transfer switch. Does the unit come with the required cable?

Any other thoughts?

Thx

I installed a EMS-HW50C on my coach a few months ago.  I did not get the remote.  It can be added later, and it doesn't bother me to go out and look in the basement if I want to check the voltage.

The instructions that come with it are very clear.  The additional wire doesn't come with it.  What I did was cut my power cable, leaving enough cable to allow me to mount the surge protector to the wall of the bay.  It took about an hour to install, half of that just cutting the cable.

I've had zero issues with the surge protector, and its given me peace of mind when connecting to power in questionable campgrounds.

Good luck!

Also interested in this... 8)

The remote display will allow you to see any codes and understand what problem may be occurring from within your coach, rather than having to go to where the unit is installed.  Purely a convenience add on.

jayc2640 said:

I installed a EMS-HW50C on my coach a few months ago.  I did not get the remote.  It can be added later, and it doesn't bother me to go out and look in the basement if I want to check the voltage.

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Everything this post says is true, except that the location of the device in your basement is not something you have a lot of choice about.  Mine is so deep in the center of things that it's virtually invisible unless you crawl in and reading a display without crawling in is virtually impossible.  I installed my remote in my water bay which is always open when I'm hooking up and it provides me with an instant assessment of the power I'm connecting to. 

OK thx. Think I'll go without the remote. I already have both digital and analog plug-in voltmeters inside to keep an eye on low voltage which seems to be the most common problem. I figure if some other issue knocks the power out I can look in the basement, since I'm likely to be checking the pedestal breaker anyway in that case.

jayc2640 said:

I installed a EMS-HW50C on my coach a few months ago.  I did not get the remote.

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Hmmm... Amazon shows the EMS-HW50C as the one with the remote for $337, versus the EMS-LCHW50 as the one without for $273  ???

jayc2640 said:

The additional wire doesn't come with it.  What I did was cut my power cable, leaving enough cable to allow me to mount the surge protector to the wall of the bay.  It took about an hour to install, half of that just cutting the cable.

Click to expand...

Ah, good idea.

docj said:

the location of the device in your basement is not something you have a lot of choice about.

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I guess I'm lucky then as my power cord is attached to the transfer switch, which is located just inside the electrical bay door. I'll literally be able to see the display with the door open while standing next to the pedestal.

ok, just to make you second guess your decision....

100% of the times I have a trip or error condition, and maybe 5% of the time when everything is "normal" I find that I'm kicking myself for not doing the remote display.

oh....Did I mention...I really wish I had the remote display on mine?

The remote display is an easy add-on as far as the connection goes.  To further muddy the waters, they also offer the option for a second remote.  So for those who have the main unit located in an inaccessible location, you can mount one display where it will be easy to read after connecting to shore power and the second display in your coach.

blw2 said:

ok, just to make you second guess your decision....

100% of the times I have a trip or error condition, and maybe 5% of the time when everything is "normal" I find that I'm kicking myself for not doing the remote display.

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I can see from a curiosity perspective that it would be nice to glance over to the display when the microwave goes dark, but when you have a trip or error don't you go outside anyway?

blw2 said:

oh....Did I mention...I really wish I had the remote display on mine?

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I thought that was an echo... 

Gizmo said:

The remote display is an easy add-on as far as the connection goes.

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I just called Progressive and indeed another display can be added, but only to the unit that already has a  remote display (i.e., you can have 2). When the salesman urged me to consider the one with the remote, and I asked why, he said the bypass switch for the remote version is on the remote, whereas the case has to be opened on the non-remote version and he said the bypass procedure is sort of "wonky". While I don't anticipate bypassing a unit which I purchased to protect the rig, he did say there were a couple of times one might consider it - low voltage for a very limited time for some urgent usage (knowing that it's very hard on equipment, especially ACs), and very occasionally frequency issues which can be caused by campground lighting and/or motion detectors, both of which have been known to trigger the unit.

So, indeed, I have changed my mind. Thanks all for your input

Sun2Retire said:

I can see from a curiosity perspective that it would be nice to glance over to the display when the microwave goes dark, but when you have a trip or error don't you go outside anyway?

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mine is installed with the transfer switch and converter...under my bed.  When it trips, or to just otherwise check on things I have to lift the mattress to open the hatch.  No big deal....except if DW is sleeping in, napping, etc....or if the bedroom slide is in

Sun2Retire said:

I just called Progressive and indeed another display can be added, but only to the unit that already has a  remote display (i.e., you can have 2). When the salesman urged me to consider the one with the remote, and I asked why, he said the bypass switch for the remote version is on the remote, whereas the case has to be opened on the non-remote version and he said the bypass procedure is sort of "wonky". While I don't anticipate bypassing a unit which I purchased to protect the rig, he did say there were a couple of times one might consider it - low voltage for a very limited time for some urgent usage (knowing that it's very hard on equipment, especially ACs), and very occasionally frequency issues which can be caused by campground lighting and/or motion detectors, both of which have been known to trigger the unit.

So, indeed, I have changed my mind. Thanks all for your input

Click to expand...

Now I learned something.  I have never found a need to bypass, but it's nice to know there's at least some sort of method to do so... the few times when we've had an alarm, I wouldn't want to bypass anyway.....

blw2 said:

Now I learned something.  I have never found a need to bypass, but it's nice to know there's at least some sort of method to do so... the few times when we've had an alarm, I wouldn't want to bypass anyway.....

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You may want to call them for the procedure so you have it if needed. He said you?d need have to pull the cover off and get tech guidance

Wow Scott. You had a salesman that told the truth. Mark your calendar.  ;D ;D

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I have a HW50C ready to install.. In our FW, the unit is virtually inaccessible without pulling the power panel or removing a storage bay panel and literally crawling in.  Even then, I needed a cell phone camera to read the model number off the converter!  For me, the remote was a no brainer!!  Further, my control panel with slide switches, tank levels, etc is directly above the location I must put the EMS.  Unless the interior wall is insulated  ;D  I simply drill a hole and drop the cord down for the remote.

No wire is included.  If you have sufficient slack, cut the cord, strip each end as instructed and connect in the EMS.  Put the cover on and bolt it to the floor.  DONE!  Without the slack, you may need a foot or two of 6-3/8-1 wire.

Alpena Jeff said:

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)  Nice. Thx

Would love to hear how the install goes Preacher.
I'm heading downstate for Christmas with family. I plan on visiting the coach in storage while down there and take a good look at where to put this thing. I'm electrically stupid so should be interesting!

I apologize Scott. I forgot this wasn't my discussion!

When I did my install I had a minimal amount of space in the electrical bay. I didn't get the remote version, partly because I didn't want to have to route the remote cable inside. I too believed that I was going to go outside to the pedestal anyway if there was a power interruption. I cut a short piece of power cord to make the connection to the transfer switch. The other end already had a piece of cord running to the power cord reel. It was still one of the best mods that I could have done.

Alpena Jeff said:

I apologize Scott. I forgot this wasn't my discussion!

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Don?t apologize, it?s not my discussion either, it?s all of ours. We can all learn!

SargeW said:

I didn't want to have to route the remote cable inside.

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Aside from the extra cost that was one of my concerns as well. The electric bay is behind the left rear wheel well under the bedroom slide. Going to be challenging getting across the coach and up into the cabin

I installed my Progressive with the remote display a couple of months ago.  Installing the unit itself in my electrical input compartment was a piece of cake, but the remote was much more challenging.  That side of the coach has a superslider so I planned to route the cable under the rig to the opposite side, but then had to find a way to bring this up to the OnePlace.  As it turned out this was further than the length of cable provided.  I gave Progressive a call and they happily sent me a longer cable free of charge that arrived within a week.  Note that the cable looks like a phone cable, but is actually a data cable, so the pinouts are different than a phone cable. 

At the OnePlace I pulled off the main panel and snaked the cable down to near the floor where my LP gas detector is located.  When I pulled this off the wall i could see along the wall beside my half bath.  In the half bath I pulled a magazine rack from the vanity and was able to see the other end of that wall space, which enabled me to snake the cable almost to the outside wall. From there I took off an entry light near my steps and was able to bring the cable to there.  Then I removed the access panel behind my hot water heater and was able to snake the cable from behind the entry light to and through the hot water heater enclosure.  At that spot I was able to run the cable through a length of protective sleeving beside other wiring toward the back of my RV and across to the back side of the electrical entry compartment to complete the hookup to the Progressive.  For each coach I can imagine that this is a bit of a mystery which may take some perseverance, but I really like having the remote display exactly where all of the other indicators are positioned.  When something happens in the dead of night on a rainy evening I am sure that I will enjoy this even more.