Class A workhorse, info on steering stabilizer
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Heli_av8tor
Well-known member
What do you mean by "loose steering". Are you having to drive it 110% of the time making constant corrections?
Tom
Tom
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
It may help stiffen the steering response somewhat, but "loose" steering could be one of several problems that really ought to be fixed rather than band-aided. Could you describe what you mean a bit more?
For more advice on this sort of problem, see my article on Motorhome Handling Problems in the forum Library at http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/MH_Steering_Handling_%20Primer.pdf
For more advice on this sort of problem, see my article on Motorhome Handling Problems in the forum Library at http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/MH_Steering_Handling_%20Primer.pdf
Arch Hoagland
Well-known member
Over inflated tires will cause you to wander a bit.
Have you weighed your RV and set the tire pressure as per the tire manufacturers specifications?
Have you weighed your RV and set the tire pressure as per the tire manufacturers specifications?
John From Detroit
Well-known member
I went with a Blue-OX Tru-Center. the other one I'd suggest is a Safe-T-Steer with the optional remote adjustment option.
I also suggest you consider trak barsl I did and the two together made a big difference
How loose is loose when it comes to steering ?
Michigan has that codified in the Vehicle code.. (It may be in the commercial vehicle code) but for any give size wheel it is defined as so many inches o "play" in the wheel.. My Workhorse is weell within complance, but brfore I added thre trafk bar and stablizer it did not FEEL like it, I checked it howeer and it was, Just did nto FEEL like it.
If the steering is really loose, You need an alignment shop to fix it.
I also suggest you consider trak barsl I did and the two together made a big difference
How loose is loose when it comes to steering ?
Michigan has that codified in the Vehicle code.. (It may be in the commercial vehicle code) but for any give size wheel it is defined as so many inches o "play" in the wheel.. My Workhorse is weell within complance, but brfore I added thre trafk bar and stablizer it did not FEEL like it, I checked it howeer and it was, Just did nto FEEL like it.
If the steering is really loose, You need an alignment shop to fix it.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
That is not typically an actual loose or sloppy components in the steering. And forgive me, but the driver is often a significant piece of the constant steering correction issue. Have you owned this motorhome very long, or at least driven it several thousand miles? The different driver perspective in a Class A raises havoc with ingrained "muscle memory" learned in cars.
As other have mentioned, excessive tire pressure contributes to the problem. Getting the coach weighed axle by axle and adjusting tire pressure for the actual load can make a big difference.
Rut-tracking and leaf spring side-play is another major factor and is correctable with a track bar (panhard rod).
As other have mentioned, excessive tire pressure contributes to the problem. Getting the coach weighed axle by axle and adjusting tire pressure for the actual load can make a big difference.
Rut-tracking and leaf spring side-play is another major factor and is correctable with a track bar (panhard rod).
Heli_av8tor
Well-known member
I had the same problem with my coach. I think Gary is right in that I was part of the problem. But I certainly wasn?t the primary cause.
I attended a seminar at a Passport rally by Rally?s R Us. Chip said he could fix it with a trac bar and heavy duty anti-sway bar front and rear. He claimed that I would feel the difference before I got out of the parking lot. I had him do the work and he was right. Once I got on the road it was like a different coach. For the better.
Best money I ever spent on the RV.
Tom
I attended a seminar at a Passport rally by Rally?s R Us. Chip said he could fix it with a trac bar and heavy duty anti-sway bar front and rear. He claimed that I would feel the difference before I got out of the parking lot. I had him do the work and he was right. Once I got on the road it was like a different coach. For the better.
Best money I ever spent on the RV.
Tom
My boyfriend has much experience driving large vehicles and trucks(18 wheel & cement mixer). He got underneath and the stabilizer already installed is shot, rusted and leaking. It needs to be replaced and wondered if anyone has experience with the RSSCP30. Thanks all.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Good, but size isn't really the concern. The driver problem is mostly related to the cab-forward seating position, not length so much. Hopefully his experience involves similar vehicles where the driver sits above the steer axle rather than behind it.
The RSSCP30 is designed for a GM or Workhorse P30 chassis. Is that what you have? You didn't mention a year for that Tiffin 27 and they have used GM (and later Workhorse) as well as Ford motorhome chassis over the years. That model won't work on a Ford, but they have a Ford version too.
I would strongly suggest adding a track bar (panhard rod) as well, but understand you need to fix the bum stabilizer first.
http://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/trutrac/trutrac.html
Isaac-1
Well-known member
I have a Safe-T Plus steering stabilizer on my P32 chassis motorhome, it was installed by the previous owner so the only experience I have driving without it is a short test drive while it was removed in order to install a front suspension brace, and I can say I could certainly tell a difference with it gone. Having said that there are lots of other things that can negatively effect steering on P series chassis motorhomes, on mine the previous owner had done extensive upgrades including a rear track bar, new front end air bags, new Supersteer bell cranks (a common wear item), as well as the Steering stabilizer, front end alignment, ... totaling over $3,000 in parts alone. I still had issues at highway speed being blown around by passing trucks after I bought it that were almost completely solved by a simple adjustment of the steering box (turning an adjustment screw about 1/3 of a turn). This is not to say all that other were not needed, just that the root of the issue may be something other than the steering stabilizer.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
The key is that a "stabilizer" is just a steering wheel return-to-center assist. Basically makes the steering wheel action stiffer. You can tell if it is assisting or not, but it doesn't really fix anything. It has virtually no effect on poor wheel alignment, a worn or sloppy bell crank, leaf spring side-shifting, or excessive tire pressure.
BoomerD
Well-known member
Bumping an older thread since it's pertinent to me...
I had the Winnebago out for a few days and while it handles well enough, no real issues with the push-pull from passing trucks or wander, (although side winds do give me fits sometimes) the steering just seems...too responsive. I'm not sure if this is from a worn bell crank, (can't SEE any play in it) (2003 Workhorse P32 with about 25,000 miles) or if something like the Safe-T-Plus would make a difference. The various ball joints all SEEM to be nice and tight...no slop or wiggle, front tires are nearly new and all are are reasonably close to the appropriate inflation for the load. (within a few lbs +/-)
I hate to diagnose problems by throwing parts (and money) at them...and this MIGHT not actually be a problem, but it feels like the steering is just...light. (requires only a tiny bit of movement on the steering wheel to turn) it's almost like the steering pump has an oversized pulley on it... ;D
Yeah, yeah...I know...MOST threads are just the opposite...loose, sloppy steering.
Anyway, if bumping this thread isn't appropriate, let me know and I'll start a new one.
I had the Winnebago out for a few days and while it handles well enough, no real issues with the push-pull from passing trucks or wander, (although side winds do give me fits sometimes) the steering just seems...too responsive. I'm not sure if this is from a worn bell crank, (can't SEE any play in it) (2003 Workhorse P32 with about 25,000 miles) or if something like the Safe-T-Plus would make a difference. The various ball joints all SEEM to be nice and tight...no slop or wiggle, front tires are nearly new and all are are reasonably close to the appropriate inflation for the load. (within a few lbs +/-)
I hate to diagnose problems by throwing parts (and money) at them...and this MIGHT not actually be a problem, but it feels like the steering is just...light. (requires only a tiny bit of movement on the steering wheel to turn) it's almost like the steering pump has an oversized pulley on it... ;D
Yeah, yeah...I know...MOST threads are just the opposite...loose, sloppy steering.
Anyway, if bumping this thread isn't appropriate, let me know and I'll start a new one.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
There are three Suspension/Steering issues with many motor homes.
1: Sway, like fans at a rock concert leaning first one way then the other and back.
This side to side rocking bothers some folks A SWAY BAR works to control this . Now my WOrkhorse (W series) the factory sway bar has been good to me.
Wag: Like a dog's tail. in this the front moves one way while the rear moves the other. LEAF springs allow not just up down/ but side to side movement.. So when the ends move. then sway you think you are zig-zagging down teh road (You are really going straight unless you compensate if you compensate THEN you zig-zag) Track bars stop this dead.
Finally there is the steering stablizer.. I have a blue-ox Tru-Center and like it.
1: Sway, like fans at a rock concert leaning first one way then the other and back.
This side to side rocking bothers some folks A SWAY BAR works to control this . Now my WOrkhorse (W series) the factory sway bar has been good to me.
Wag: Like a dog's tail. in this the front moves one way while the rear moves the other. LEAF springs allow not just up down/ but side to side movement.. So when the ends move. then sway you think you are zig-zagging down teh road (You are really going straight unless you compensate if you compensate THEN you zig-zag) Track bars stop this dead.
Finally there is the steering stablizer.. I have a blue-ox Tru-Center and like it.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Workhorse upgraded the front end when they took over the Chevy P30 chassis, so your steering components are probably fine. If you find the steering over-sensitive, my first thoughts would be to optimize the tire inflation based on actual weight and get the alignment fine-tuned, meaning dead center on the specs rather than just anywhere within the (fairly broad) spec range. And since it is a P30, check the front air bag inflation and maybe adjust that a bit - there is a broad range of acceptable pressures. Play around with the air bad psi, up and down a bit to see how you like it. Generally more pressure makes the steering feel more crisp, but it is perception as much as fact and so trial & error is the way to zero in on what works best for you.
The Workhorse Chassis Guide explains the P3x air bag system and inflation ranges. You can download a copy at:
www.deserttruckservice.com/pdf%20folder/workhorse_chassis.guide.pdf
The Workhorse Chassis Guide explains the P3x air bag system and inflation ranges. You can download a copy at:
www.deserttruckservice.com/pdf%20folder/workhorse_chassis.guide.pdf
Old Fart gpa
New member
Did that done that ... helped but still wandering. I found out that work horse had steering box problems in some boxes! Especially after 2006. The steeling box needs to be rebuilt with less play by someone who KNOWS HOW. Or buy a new steering box and take your chances that the new one is tight. Don’t know the odds of that
Old Fart Gpa
Old Fart Gpa
Old Fart gpa
New member
Did that done that ... helped but still wandering. I found out that work horse had steering box problems in some boxes! Especially after 2006. The steeling box needs to be rebuilt with less play by someone who KNOWS HOW. Or buy a new steering box and take your chances that the new one is tight. Don’t know the odds of that
Old Fart Gpa
Old Fart Gpa
