I have a Norcold N811 fridge, and just recently (within the past day or so) has decided to stop working on A/C power, but works wonderfully on LP. When the unit stops working on A/C power, both the freezer and fridge stop working, with no error codes. Switch to LP and both fridge and freezer start to cool down again. Any advice on how to troubleshoot this would be approximated. Thanks.
Troubleshooting Norcold N811 refridgerator
- Thread starter Kbolen
- Start date
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Alfa38User
Well-known member
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Welcome!!
Does the fridge go straight to Gas operation when turned on? If not then you should have 120V detected and that suggests the heater element itself may have simply gone bad and needs replacing.
Does the fridge go straight to Gas operation when turned on? If not then you should have 120V detected and that suggests the heater element itself may have simply gone bad and needs replacing.
Back2PA
Well-known member
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- Jul 26, 2015
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Kbolen said:
Correct. It is definitely not the cooling unit.
Assuming the unit has 120v available to the control board, almost has to be either the board or electric elements.
8Muddypaws
Well-known member
Check the 120vac plug.
Heating elements are cheap and easy to replace. The easiest way to check them is with an ohmmeter. Your manual should have a troubleshooting section with everything you need to know. Manuals are available free online too.
Another common failure point is the fuse on the control board. Also an easy fix.
Even if the relay on the control board has gone bad it's still cheaper than a new refer.
Heating elements are cheap and easy to replace. The easiest way to check them is with an ohmmeter. Your manual should have a troubleshooting section with everything you need to know. Manuals are available free online too.
Another common failure point is the fuse on the control board. Also an easy fix.
Even if the relay on the control board has gone bad it's still cheaper than a new refer.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
You should not have to "rip it out". Both the heater element and the circuit board are usually accessible from the rear (outside) access door. Sometimes the RV builder positions it so that access is awkward, but usually it can be done. You can test for voltage right at the board, both coming in and after the relay (wires going to the heater itself). Get a free N811 service manual at http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncoldnnewnseries.pdf
