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Author Topic: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?  (Read 4955 times)

rookieRV

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2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« on: January 07, 2018, 07:53:03 AM »
2005 Winnie Itasca Sunnova, live full-time. I replaced the two 12v coach batteries abt. two months ago (Duracell), when in abt. a 2 day process the indoor lights were dimming. Cleaned up the battery wires and reconnected the 2-stage Parallax power converter (not the first time doing this, sometimes a simple ‘kick’ on the converter box got things running again!) but THIS time I wasn’t so lucky, everything down to the low-current devices failed (thermostats). So I had a hair-brained idea: Being a radio amateur, I have a rarely used Astron RS-35a power supply (rated 13.8v, 26 amps continuous, 35 ICS amps 50% duty cycle). I completely pulled the batteries out of the system (bypassed), wired the Astron in place of the Parallax. Viola! DC “life support” was back on (air thermostat controls, fridge thermostat controls, lights), with the understanding that this would have a lack of ‘backup’ should AC shore fail.

Now we have a need for the propane furnace, however, and that appliance sucks CURRENT (blower,mostly). I consulted with two persons, they both said that the Astron SHOULD be fine (IF I’m running nothing else DC!). Got back from vacationing, and hit the AC for propane heat. Started fine, ignited fine, but after 15-20 minutes, the Astron Power supply’s rear heat sink and 4 transistors were getting a bit warm to the touch, so I shut the heat off. Ran it again briefly this morning, with eventually the same warm result. Just as a test, I pulled the Astron out, and reinstalled the Parallax (batteries still removed from the loop, but the Parallax is rated 45 amps alone). Still nothing from it, even for powering low-current thermostat controls on its own (is it safe to say that the Parallax is shot?)

I take it that, from the fact that the Parallax won’t power the AC thermostat/fridge control on its own (but the Astron will), I can definitely say that the Parallax is ‘dead’, and in need of replacement, no? By bypassing the batteries and going direct from both power supplies (one charger/PS at a time, of course) to the bus bars under the cooking range (nearby where the Parallax charger is/was originally situated, not quite under the sink), with only the Astron working ‘relatively’ okay (as long as I don’t overtax it, current-wise), then I can deduce that there are no ciruit breaker/fuses/battery solenoid switch concerns? Could the new batteries have contributed to any of this failure (in 2 months)? I metered (VOM) the Parallax removed from it all, usually reading zero, rarely about 8-9, but never more. Does it definately sound like I need a new charger/p.s.?
« Last Edit: January 07, 2018, 10:40:05 AM by rookieRV »

Ernie n Tara

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2018, 08:46:24 AM »
Yes! Also, if you set the power supply output correctly (~13.3V) there is no reason to remove the batteries. It should charge them just fine albeit slowly at that Voltage.

Ernie
Ernie 'n Tara

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Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2018, 09:19:22 AM »
The furnace fan draws about 5-6 amps, so that alone should not tax the Astron.  The warmth is either normal or something else drawing power. In any case, get a new converter/charger. 

Could be that one of your new batteries is bad (internally shorted or a weak cell) and drawing amps simply because it's voltage is low relative to the rest of the system. It's rare, but sometimes faulty batteries escape the battery factory.

Gary
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2018, 09:38:51 AM »
reply to ernie n tara: So I do need a new charger/converter. I take it that charger/converters... wired in parallel w/ the batteries, as it appears... recharges the batteries @ different rates, depending on its stage (bulk, absorption, float, etc... these are different VOLTAGE? rates of recharge. Yet for, say, the lights to remain reasonably bright, THEY still need the same volts, no?) And REGARDLESS of what stage that the BATTERIES are recharging from the charger/converter, the charger/converter STILL provides enough power (volts and/or current) for all of the DC items (furnace, air thermostats, lights staying bright), IN ADDITION TO properly recharging the batts as two different, yet SIMULTANEOUS functions?

I live in this permanently w/o moving it, could I simply bypass the batteries (and the hassle there) ALTOGETHER (w/ a new converter/charger rated @the same 45 amps as the Parallax was)? Wouldn’t that give enough current on its own?

to wizard: we got these wet cells @ a battery store, mostly sells Duracell, series 24 (like the old batts), MCA 615, CCA 500, 150 mins @ 23A. The kid @ the store claimed that he was selling a sealed (something ‘other than’ wet cell) batt, until I demonstrated the removable ‘pop tops’ for water. Any way to test batts w/o hygrometer or anything? Guess that I could take it back to the store.

Something unusual w/ Astron... when i turn on wife’s Kurig coffee machine, the Astron makes a periodic vibration noise while the Kurig is heating/serving... like transformer or capacitor in Astron being ‘put through its paces’ sometimes. Suprising since the Kurig is a seperate AC appliance.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2018, 10:49:48 AM by rookieRV »

John Hilley

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #4 on: January 07, 2018, 12:33:18 PM »
Some converter chargers are rated as converters and power supplies (IOTA). When connected in parallel with the batteries the converter is providing charging current for the batteries and what ever the coach is requiring for lights and etc.

I would get at least a 55 amp replacement, Progressive Dynamics or IOTA

I would also get the Charge Wizard to be able to over ride the automatic function
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #5 on: January 07, 2018, 07:48:31 PM »
Some converter chargers are rated as converters and power supplies (IOTA). When connected in parallel with the batteries the converter is providing charging current for the batteries and what ever the coach is requiring for lights and etc.

I would get at least a 55 amp replacement, Progressive Dynamics or IOTA

I would also get the Charge Wizard to be able to over ride the automatic function

So I take it, John, that I could go to a slightly larger amperage PS/Charger, w/o any concerns of supplying too much to the number or kind of paralleled batts (two batts parallel, in this instance). Would I have to increase wire size between a larger current charger/PS and the DC distribution bus bar, etc?

I looked at both of those brands of charger/converters, and I figure that either brand with the addition of their respective ‘Wizard’ indicator/controller would be good, in one way or two (some only as indicatiors [Iota], some as indicators and override [PD]). Being a rookie, however, I have to ask: Under what situation would/should I feel the need to MANUALLY ‘override’ between charge modes (bulk, absorption, float)? I mean, the optional ‘Wizards’ allow the charger to do this on their own, right?

Presently leaning to the 45amp Progressive Dynamics (or slightly more current model, maybe),w/ wizard.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2018, 08:00:15 PM by rookieRV »

rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2018, 04:32:36 AM »

Could be that one of your new batteries is bad (internally shorted or a weak cell) and drawing amps simply because it's voltage is low relative to the rest of the system. It's rare, but sometimes faulty batteries escape the battery factory.

Exactly, Gary. That’s why if I know for certain that I can always leave batteries OUT of the loop (as long as the RV is not mobile) then i’d do away with those pains altogether. Could any, or only certain brands/kinds of charger/PSs be done this way?

Ernie n Tara

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2018, 07:13:05 AM »
Leaving them out is likely ok for most chargers but be aware that the batteries serve to filter the charger output. Also, if you replace the battrries again you should know you gave the wrong type for house batteries. Yours are starting batteries best suited for the chassis battery. House batteries will be deep cell andrated in Amp hours rather than starting current.

Ernie
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Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2018, 08:15:59 AM »
Quote
...if I know for certain that I can always leave batteries OUT of the loop (as long as the RV is not mobile) then i’d do away with those pains altogether. Could any, or only certain brands/kinds of charger/PSs be done this way?

I don't know of any the currently available RV converter/chargers that require having a battery in the loop to operate properly. That has not been the case since the early 90's. There is still a potential power quality concern, but the digital electronic type of converter does not seem to produce the ripple that was so prevalent in the old transformer-driven units.  I'm sure the specifics depend on the quality of the circuit board design, but in my opinion it is not something you need worry about.

Quote
...I could go to a slightly larger amperage PS/Charger, w/o any concerns of supplying too much to the number or kind of paralleled batts (two batts parallel, in this instance). Would I have to increase wire size between a larger current charger/PS and the DC distribution bus bar, etc?

Having a larger supply doesn't push more amps into the batteries - it just makes them available. As for wire size, that cannot be answered without knowing what you now have. Looking back in this topic, I don't see even the present Parallax model info, but the Sunova brochure says it has a 45A converter/charger.  Usually, the wire to the bus and battery are adequate for at least a modest increase. Some power systems have a circuit breaker in a separate battery charge controller, though, and that might be a 50A breaker. Not sure what you have in your rig.

Quote
Under what situation would/should I feel the need to MANUALLY ‘override’ between charge modes (bulk, absorption, float)? I mean, the optional ‘Wizards’ allow the charger to do this on their own, right?

No need to do any manual switching, in my opinion.  Some people like to tinker, but the wizard devices do a fine job on their own.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2018, 08:32:56 AM by Gary RV_Wizard »
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2018, 09:53:12 AM »
I don't know of any the currently available RV converter/chargers that require having a battery in the loop to operate properly. That has not been the case since the early 90's. There is still a potential power quality concern, but the digital electronic type of converter does not seem to produce the ripple that was so prevalent in the old transformer-driven units.  I'm sure the specifics depend on the quality of the circuit board design, but in my opinion it is not something you need worry about.

Having a larger supply doesn't push more amps into the batteries - it just makes them available. As for wire size, that cannot be answered without knowing what you now have. Looking back in this topic, I don't see even the present Parallax model info, but the Sunova brochure says it has a 45A converter/charger.  Usually, the wire to the bus and battery are adequate for at least a modest increase. Some power systems have a circuit breaker in a separate battery charge controller, though, and that might be a 50A breaker. Not sure what you have in your rig.


Not sure of any internal 50 amp breaker, but what I DO know that might be relevant, the RV camp site that we live at has both 30 amp and 50 amp service spots, and we've always used the 30 amp w/ no problems (on the AC/ circuit breaker/ outside box, 'supply' side of things). The current bar graph indicator in the indoor hall only goes to 30 amps (the 'thing' we use to regulate our own total AC current consumption, i.e., no microwave/convection with BOTH air conditioners on simultaneously). Are you suggesting that a higher current breaker may somehow exist FOLLOWING AFTER the outside, lower current (30 amp) one? I dunno...
« Last Edit: January 08, 2018, 11:14:29 AM by rookieRV »

rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #10 on: January 08, 2018, 11:46:53 AM »
Also, if you replace the battrries again you should know you gave the wrong type for house batteries. Yours are starting batteries best suited for the chassis battery. House batteries will be deep cell andrated in Amp hours rather than starting current.


Ernie

You mean, when I replace them again! That kid at that battery store probably fooled me in his 'cross-reference' book... if he actually COULD read... probably should've stayed w/ the exact model of Interstate batteries! Regardless, both of those OLD Interstates that we first replaced where sulfating? (crystalized dry white powder) on the outside, around the braces and contacts (AFTER 5 YEARS CONTINUOUS USE), until they got warm on the sides of them (one batt at a time) and I finally got them out of there (the second batt... left alone after removing the first... was gassing ! Darned right I removed 'em!

Can't say that any lack of purified water was at fault with the Interstates, my wife made me check them for that  RELIGIOUSLY by the month!

So basically I was given Duracell car batts, no? Still have warranty on them, maybe I can exchange them for some correct ones (or my money back, toward buying the correct ones somewhere else?)  RIIIIGHT!
« Last Edit: January 08, 2018, 11:57:41 AM by rookieRV »

John Canfield

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #11 on: January 08, 2018, 12:07:16 PM »
We've had several good battery discussions in this Winnie board (and elsewhere in the forum) so search around - you can get a real good education from the knowledgeable folks here. Know what you are shopping for or suffer the consequences.

My rules of thumb for batteries, starting or house: Replace at three to five years regardless unless you use premium deep cycle batteries for the house. Starting batteries get replaced on my coach about every three years.

I consider premium deep cycle batteries to have AGM chemistry as opposed to the traditional flooded cell (wet.) I have three Lifeline AGM batteries for the house and they will easily last 7-10 years if not abused (abused: not deeply discharging them.) They will accept more charging current and have a very low self-discharge rate (a disconnected battery will slowly discharge due to internal resistance.)
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Lou Schneider

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #12 on: January 08, 2018, 03:32:44 PM »
Not sure of any internal 50 amp breaker, but what I DO know that might be relevant, the RV camp site that we live at has both 30 amp and 50 amp service spots, and we've always used the 30 amp w/ no problems (on the AC/ circuit breaker/ outside box, 'supply' side of things). The current bar graph indicator in the indoor hall only goes to 30 amps (the 'thing' we use to regulate our own total AC current consumption, i.e., no microwave/convection with BOTH air conditioners on simultaneously). Are you suggesting that a higher current breaker may somehow exist FOLLOWING AFTER the outside, lower current (30 amp) one? I dunno...

You're confusing amperage at 12 volts versus amperage at 120 volts.  There's a 10:1 ratio between them, i.e. 50 amps at 12 volts is the same amount of power as 5 amps at 120 volts.

The 50 amp circuit breaker Gary mentioned is on the 12 volt side and may be just a little pillbox with two screw terminals coming out of the top.

Regardless, both of those OLD Interstates that we first replaced where sulfating? (crystalized dry white powder) on the outside, around the braces and contacts

Sulfation refers to hard deposits forming on the battery's internal plates if it's left discharged, or the electrolyte level drops below the level of the plates, letting them dry out.  The hard sulfate deposits block the electrolyte from interacting with the plate underneath it, reducing the battery's capacity by making that portion of the plate inactive.

The white power on the external surfaces is corrosion and is a normal part of wet cell battery operation, caused by the acidic electrolyte mist coming out of the battery vents.  It can be neutralized by applying a solution of a baking soda dissolved in water to the affected areas.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2018, 07:50:16 PM by Lou Schneider »

Kevin Means

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #13 on: January 08, 2018, 03:40:57 PM »
Agree with John. Of our three motorhomes, this is the first with AGMs, and I love 'em! No one's ever accused me of being lazy, but it's sooo nice not to have to check water levels and specific gravity year after year. No more acid stains on the driveway, no more holes eaten through my shirts. Heck, even the battery terminals never needed cleaning.

I just replaced six of our eight house batteries two days ago, because I had begun to notice that they seemed to not be holding a charge as well as they used to. We boondock a lot, so our batteries get a pretty good workout. They lasted seven years, so no complaints (Well, maybe their price.)

Kev
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John Hilley

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #14 on: January 08, 2018, 03:47:08 PM »
From Progressive Dynamics FAQ on Charge Wizard

Quote
I dry camp most of the time and want to recharge my RV batteries using my generator the next day. Is there any way I can get a faster recharge rate?
Yes, all 9100 Series Converter/Chargers are equipped with our TCMS (Total Charge Management System) Connector to allow you to easily install our Charge Wizard. All 9200 Series Converter/Chargers are equipped with the TCMS / Charge Wizard built in. The Charge Wizard senses that your batteries are low and that you want to charge them fast therefore, it automatically increases the output voltage of the Converter/Charger to 14.4-volts and will return a 125-AH battery to 90% of full charge in 2-3 hours. Full charge is achieved in approximately 15 hours.
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #15 on: January 08, 2018, 06:36:13 PM »
Also, if you replace the battrries again you should know you gave the wrong type for house batteries. Yours are starting batteries best suited for the chassis battery. House batteries will be deep cell andrated in Amp hours rather than starting current.

Ernie

Here’s what I remember re: the batteries:

1- New Duracell pair (SL124MDC) matches the old Interstate pair in two ways: They’re both Group 24s, they both are printed ‘marine deep cycle’.

2- As I recall, the MCA and CCA ratings (for whatever those figures may be worth) were fairly close between the old Interstate and new Duracell battery pairs.

3- Each individual Duracell also had an additional rating marked on them: minutes @ 23 amps, 150 minutes.

So how bad does it sound?
« Last Edit: January 09, 2018, 08:23:52 AM by rookieRV »

John Hilley

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #16 on: January 08, 2018, 10:51:34 PM »
They probably are comparable to what was originally in the motorhome. Depending on how you use the motorhome, they may be more than adequate. If you never dry camp, then they are fine. A group 27 or 29 would have more capacity.
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kdbgoat

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #17 on: January 09, 2018, 06:54:49 AM »
Marine deep cycle batteries are not true deep cycle batteries.
Here's a good great article from our library to read:
http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/Choosing_right_battery.pdf

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Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #18 on: January 09, 2018, 10:13:37 AM »
Quote
1- New Duracell pair (SL124MDC) matches the old Interstate pair in two ways: They’re both Group 24s, they both are printed ‘marine deep cycle’.

That's ok. Marine deep cycle" will not last as long as a true deep cycle (see my battery article cited above) but they are also much less expensive. Figure 3 years of use as typical.

Quote
2- As I recall, the MCA and CCA ratings (for whatever those figures may be worth) were fairly close between the old Interstate and new Duracell battery pairs.
Neither MCA nor CCA are relevant to deep cycle performance. They are measurements of engine cranking capability only. The numbers you are concerned about at RC and AH.

Quote
3- Each individual Duracell also had an additional rating marked on them: minutes @ 23 amps, 150 minutes.

That's the deep cycle rating, known as Reserve Capacity. Learn more about RC and AH (amp-hours) at http://all-about-lead-acid-batteries.capnfatz.com/all-about-lead-acid-batteries/lead-acid-battery-fundamentals/what-is-reserve-capacity/
« Last Edit: January 09, 2018, 10:15:42 AM by Gary RV_Wizard »
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #19 on: January 10, 2018, 05:39:50 PM »
Okay, not to beat on a dead horse, but I found it! the original Interstate batteries running with the Parallax 45 amp, 2 stage charger/converter for the last five years were SRM-24s, 550 CCAs ea., 690 MCAs ea., marine deep cycle group 24s.

New batteries are (were?) Duracell SL124MDC (group 24s), 500 CCAs ea., 615 MCAs ea., 150 minutes @ 23 amps ea., marine deep cycle group 24s (so, yes, they do sound like comparable battery types) The last VOM reading today on the Duracells (direct to batts, all else removed): 11.24 volts.

Does it sound like a new charger would do fine with the present status of the new batt set, or should I bring the batts back to the retailer for testing/charging/replacement while I’m waiting for the new charger/converter to arrive?

As maintenence-free as the other battery types seem, we live here, full-time, on the ‘cheap’. No dry camping/boondocking ever, only my wife that nags me to check the batt water levels every month! But, hey, the old pair lasted FIVE YEARS!
« Last Edit: January 10, 2018, 06:33:33 PM by rookieRV »

John Hilley

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #20 on: January 10, 2018, 11:01:44 PM »
For the sake of the batteries, it might be wise to take them back and have them charged while you are waiting for the converter. For your application the batteries are more than adequate.
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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #21 on: January 11, 2018, 09:16:00 AM »
Batts are heading back to retailer this Saturday... I figure a week would be long enough to test/charge while getting the  new charger/converter sent this way  8).

The old Parallax had TWO green wires going to the negative ground bus bar, one wire between the charger's negative and the bus bar, the other wire between the charger's metal chassis frame and that same bus bar. Some of these replacement charger/converters do not appear to require any "metal chassis frame to bar" wire (only the typical +/-) ???  :o. Fools like me can thank God for reverse polarity protection, etc.  :-[  ::) I'll look closely before proceeding.

YYesss! They DO have chassis grounding lugs (both PD and IOTA)! Just had to find the installation manuals :-[ ::) Now which one...

So far the PD has it, mostly because the 'wizard' feature works as an extension (I can set the indicator above and not break my back to get an indication of batt charge status). With the IOTA, I'd apparently have to move the entire charger up to really enjoy what benefit that I could reap from that one's 'wizard' indicator (only knowing, not manipulating, if need be).
« Last Edit: January 11, 2018, 12:02:34 PM by rookieRV »

John Canfield

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #22 on: January 11, 2018, 11:57:41 AM »
The chassis frame and house metal bits and pieces are at the same potential as the negative side of the batteries (i.e., connected.) However Winnie brings both negative and positive wires to whatever thingy requires 12V (which is good engineering to avoid ground loops.)
--John
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #23 on: January 11, 2018, 05:36:30 PM »
Hey, what a coincidence.... as a radio “hamateur”, I’m told to hate ground loops  8) On that side of things, however, from now on I may have to use one of my separate AC to DC Astron power converters, made exclusively for my radios. Unless someone feels that predominantly listening to a .5 amp receive/ 4 amp max transmit radio shouldn’t tax the new 12 volt battery/charger/converter arrangement.  ???

Gee, some sites say to go directly off the RV 12 volts with such radios! ??? The cigarette lighter up front was working fine! I’d miss such minimalizing simplicity!  :-\

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #24 on: January 12, 2018, 07:20:35 AM »
WB5THT, Extra Class hamster here (and a volunteer examiner.) Four amps isn't much, I wouldn't worry about it. When we're on the road, I bring my Elecraft K3s and a small switching power supply - it's a bunch easier than trying to run 12V back to the house batteries.  I have several old Astron power supplies that aren't in service - too large and heavy. The better switch mode power supplies are very RF quiet.
--John
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #25 on: January 13, 2018, 07:20:08 AM »
Okay...just ordered a new pair of foot long 1 ga. cables for paralleling the coach batts... one of those terminals was nearly as thin as a fuse!  :o Must have been from all of that occasional ‘dremmelling’ off the corrosion that I did to them over the last five years  :-[ Must remember: Baking soda, water ;D (or at the very least, wire bristle instead of stone bit :-[ )

I’m looking at PD9260c... It’s ovverrated on the DC side of things (it would be a 60 amp charger replacing a defunct 45 amp supply). So I know for sure that a higher current charger, alone, could allow all DC appliances run simultaneously w/o breaking any sweat. On the AC side of things, being rated abt. 300 watts more than the old charger, this means that it can handle more, not that it would automatically require more 24/7, once that everything is in place? From the penny-pincher’s perspective, it would only use what is demanded from it, no? Maybe nice, however, to have everything overrated so it won’t be taxed to death... Or could my electric be taxed to death? :o  Hmm...

On the batt side of things, regardless of charger’s amp supply, they all automatically periodically test to see what the batt needs, and adjust volts accordingly (bulk, float, absorption, etc) A higher current charger won’t require a third battery, or anything? I take it that the process of battery charging involves a change in volts, not amps, right?


[quoting Joel]
“Make sure your generator can handle the charger (Power Converter) if you plan to dry camp.

I have a 40 amp charger, 1000 watt generator, and 220 amp hours of battery. They all work together nicely.

40 amps at 14.4 volts plus losses ~600 watts - comfortable for my 1 kw.
60 amps ~ 900 watts - maxes out the 1 kw's continuous rating.”

Oh no, there goes the flexibility (if I opt for a larger converter), if/when I ever do move it!

Anywhoo, just for a lark I bench tested the Parallax for Vout again... This morn 13+ volts from charger, direct to VOM. Swithed out the Astron and in the Parallax, same ‘no DC’ result (fridge, thermostats).

John Canfield, the Icom that I’m using can operate in such a wide volt range (like 9-15v), that any volts typically involved in RVs (batts, chargers, bulk, absorption, float, whatever) couldn’t reach beyond the radios rated specs (w/o failing on their own). Lucky me! N4 Tangled Radio Cables (General, began in the days when everyone still knew Morse)
« Last Edit: January 13, 2018, 10:01:38 AM by rookieRV »

John Hilley

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #26 on: January 13, 2018, 02:30:10 PM »
I believe that the 60 amp Progressive Dynamics converter has a 20 amp plug on the AC cord. The receptacle that the converter plugs in to is probably only a 15 amp receptacle. You may have to swap out the receptacle.
2003 Winnebago Adventurer 38G
1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport
1999 Winnebago Brave 35C
  Handicap Lift & Hospital Bed

rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #27 on: January 14, 2018, 08:25:02 AM »
I believe that the 60 amp Progressive Dynamics converter has a 20 amp plug on the AC cord. The receptacle that the converter plugs in to is probably only a 15 amp receptacle. You may have to swap out the receptacle.
The outlet/receptacle that the defunct Parallax used is a 15 amp (common 110, two “vertical prongs” and ground).

A 20 amp outlet/receptacle is of the “left T” design (otherwise the same hole size as the common 15amp receptacles), right?

...Then a larger wire (indoors between the circuit breaker panel box and the new converter/charger’s “T left” receptacle)?

...Then a larger, 20 amp rated circuit breaker swapped/inserted in to the indoor panel box, perhaps wired exclusively to that receptacle (considering the short distance between indoor panel box and present receptacle that serves this function, it could/should already be set up in this general format, with no “sharing” of other receptacle/outlets?)...

...Then the charger/converter hopefully enjoys double protection: First from an indoor 20 amp breaker (exclusively dedicated to the charger’s receptacle), then the 2 outdoor circuit breakers (30 amps total, for entire RV power requirements) in the outdoor breaker panel box...

The math?
PD9260C max continuous input power: 1000 watts (for 60 amps DC out, which we’re not anticipating, we only want circuit breakers to shut off when they should/have to, right?)

On the AC shore side of things, we have a grand total of 110 volts X 30 amps, or 3300 watts AC available

The PD9260C could consume 1000 watts/110 volts = 9 amps power from the AC shore, if I somehow needed full tilt on the DC side of things (not anticipated, just nice to know it’s there “on tap” and not taxing underrated things to death). if I ever reached the need for 9 amps from the charger (highly unlikely), then it would only consume AC current that’s still slightly lower than that of, say, a single air conditioner, the microwave/convection oven, her Kurig Coffee Machine ::), etc.


...Something like this may more than satisfy “daily, continuous living off 110 AC”, but my concerns of powering an overrated converter/charger from the generator (if/when that I ever need to) remain.


« Last Edit: January 14, 2018, 08:31:56 AM by rookieRV »

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #28 on: January 14, 2018, 10:37:50 AM »
It's a standard 3-prong,  parallel blade 15A plug. It can be seen in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjbtUhXzcxc
Gary
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #29 on: January 14, 2018, 12:02:15 PM »
So A PD9260 would be “plug-n-play” ?(I mean, why the heck would they use the same shaped plug/outlet configuration, if they don’t expect the same [or less] AC current demands then the last converter’s arrangement?)

I mean, let’s see  ???:
Old Parallax power demands: 110vAC, 775 watts (“full-tilt”?), standard three-prong parallel plug
New Progressive PD9260 power demands: 110vAC 1000 watts (“full-tilt”), same three prong

[quoting John Hilley]
“I believe that the 60 amp Progressive Dynamics converter has a 20 amp plug on the AC cord. The receptacle that the converter plugs in to is probably only a 15 amp receptacle. You may have to swap out the receptacle.”

And yet they both use standard “three-prong, parallel blade”? So what’s to change, the circuit breaker? The AC supply wires? ??? Nothing? 8)

So lemmie understand these multi-stage smart chargers a little more: If I’m full-time parked, AC power on always, coach batteries fully charged, then the charger/converter would supply all the demanded DC, alone, for the DC loads. Additionally, the charger goes into ‘desulfation’ mode every day or so, strictly to keep the coach batteries ‘stirred’ a little (not to have the batts run things, only to keep the batts ready, should the need for them ever arise).





« Last Edit: January 14, 2018, 12:44:23 PM by rookieRV »