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Author Topic: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?  (Read 4925 times)

John Hilley

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #30 on: January 14, 2018, 02:14:52 PM »
It's a standard 3-prong,  parallel blade 15A plug. It can be seen in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjbtUhXzcxc

Mine had the 20 amp plug on it. I changed out the receptacle, but there is no need to change the breaker or the wiring. I believe it had the 20 amp plug because of the wire size in the pigtail.
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John Hilley

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #31 on: January 14, 2018, 02:18:29 PM »
So A PD9260 would be “plug-n-play” ?(I mean, why the heck would they use the same shaped plug/outlet configuration, if they don’t expect the same [or less] AC current demands then the last converter’s arrangement?)

I mean, let’s see  ???:
Old Parallax power demands: 110vAC, 775 watts (“full-tilt”?), standard three-prong parallel plug
New Progressive PD9260 power demands: 110vAC 1000 watts (“full-tilt”), same three prong

[quoting John Hilley]
“I believe that the 60 amp Progressive Dynamics converter has a 20 amp plug on the AC cord. The receptacle that the converter plugs in to is probably only a 15 amp receptacle. You may have to swap out the receptacle.”

And yet they both use standard “three-prong, parallel blade”? So what’s to change, the circuit breaker? The AC supply wires? ??? Nothing? 8)

So lemmie understand these multi-stage smart chargers a little more: If I’m full-time parked, AC power on always, coach batteries fully charged, then the charger/converter would supply all the demanded DC, alone, for the DC loads. Additionally, the charger goes into ‘desulfation’ mode every day or so, strictly to keep the coach batteries ‘stirred’ a little (not to have the batts run things, only to keep the batts ready, should the need for them ever arise).

Mine came with the 20 amp plug, it may be an anomaly, I only changed the receptacle to match the plug. I have no problem with my Honda 2000 watt generator powering the converter and a coffee maker while boondocking.  There is no need to change the breaker or wiring.
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John Hilley

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #32 on: January 14, 2018, 02:27:09 PM »
The Progressive Dynamics catalog does state that the 60 amp has a 15 amp power cord, the 80 amp has a 20amp power cord. Mine must have gotten an 80 amp power cord some how.

Progressive Dynamics catalog
chrome-extension://oemmndcbldboiebfnladdacbdfmadadm/https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/full_line_catalog-min.pdf
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #33 on: January 15, 2018, 03:27:25 PM »
On the dry camping/boondocking/generator side of things, our generator is 5,500 watts (120vAC @ 45.5amps) Would that warrant much more higher caution w/ the addition of a higher current charger/converter?

Wife desired hot water last night for dish washing, I turned on the 8? gal. heater: The good news is, nothing blew!  ;) The other good news: The Astron didn’t get near as hot (as when running the furnace)! 8) The bad news: What heat that the Astron’s heat sink der·ri·ère did gain, it gained in seconds, (not minutes, like with the furnace)! :o We scratched that, and used the Keurig to make warm dish water the next day ;D

John Canfield

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #34 on: January 15, 2018, 05:50:00 PM »
You still have some good overhead, worst case scenario is you pop the breaker on the gen set.
--John
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John Hilley

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #35 on: January 16, 2018, 11:48:57 AM »
If the water heater draws any current at all from the 12 volt system, it is only for a relay and to power the control board. When plugged into shore power or generator, the converter should not be an issue at all for the converter.
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #36 on: January 17, 2018, 12:40:16 PM »
Quoting another post:

"The more amps you get from your converter the faster you recharge batteries. Not all that important if you are on electrical hookup. When dry camping, one must run a generator, either one in the rig or one brought along to do that. The lower the amps in the converter the longer the generator needs to run to recharge. Some folks plug in another charger and use both a the same time. Or even a solar charger too. Be aware if you upgrade to a higher amp unit..some cables may need replaced to handle the increase. AC amps and the 120vac have nothing to do with dc amps out of the converter. The converter is part of the draw from the 120v AC load, along with microwave, air conditioner, tv or anyhting that runs on AC."  [Posted By: suchristo01 on 05/26/11 06:44am]

My own knowledge in this DC power area is a little limited... with a power supply providing what's needed for a motor/lights/radios/etc. I just make sure that the supplied voltage is within the load's range of operation, the supplied current meets or exceeds that demanded. Usually an oversupply of amps work like, "Here I am, if you should ever want/need me".  8)

So here in the process of recharging (with multistage 'smart' chargers), we have various brands of charger/power supplies going through various charge states [bulk, float, absorption] delivering different volt ratings for differing prearranged? sets of time (prearranged time frames, or periodically testing to make the needed volt/charge adjustments accordingly?) Adjustments are made depending upon the batteries needs. Maybe one brand's process (volts supplied on each stage, length of time periods) favors the cheap wet deep cell batteries better than another.  :-\

Most go for a higher rated charger so that if/when they dry camp/boondock, they don't have to run the generator as long to get a good charge (to the 'DC battery' side of things... saving the time, gas, and the generator). But if more amps makes a charger do its job faster (faster usu. doesn't come w/o a cost ;)), what does that in turn, do for the battery? Boil it a little faster? :o Shorten its life a little sooner? :(
« Last Edit: January 17, 2018, 12:47:16 PM by rookieRV »

kdbgoat

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #37 on: January 17, 2018, 01:41:43 PM »
I know you believe you understand what you think I said,
But I am not sure you realize what you heard is not what I meant


2016 Leprechaun 319DS

rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #38 on: January 18, 2018, 09:57:11 AM »
[quoting Lou Snieder, 2008 post]
    "Going to a larger sized converter will not change your charging rate ???.   The output voltage determines how many amps are provided to your batteries. ???  If you're getting a 30 amp charging rate from a 45 amp converter, you'll get the same rate from a 60 amp because the output voltages are the same 8).   The only way your charging rate will change is if it's being limited by the current capacity of the converter???.

Keep in mind your converter has to power all of your 12 volt loads in addition to charging your batteries :)).  How many light bulbs does your rig have?  Each bulb pulls about 2 amps.  Your furnace pulls about 10 amps.  Running the furnace and a half a dozen light bulbs will consume the majority of power available from a 40 amp converter.   Add a couple of discharged batteries and the converter will be running flat out to satisfy the demand.  :(

I don't see any benefit in going to a smaller converter that would have to work harder to do all of this.":))


   So the available current...if meeting or exceeding total demands... has absolutely nothing to do with battery charge rates, frequency of charge states, battery longevity, boil-over preventions... it's all exclusively in the voltage? in which case here we've pretty much decided upon and maintained some conventional protocols (12 volts, +/-), at least for the time being ;D

Between this post, and the site recommended by kdbgoat (very informative), lemmie see if my knowledge has grown a little:

 1- The lead acid wet cell has a volt range that it charges within... when the charger goes with higher volts, it'll invariably accept higher current  (i.e., 'bulk' phase, speeding things up for a while)
 2- 'smart' chargers constantly/periodically/occasionally sense changes (in battery voltage?), and respond in kind with a change in its own volts supplied to the batts.
 3- the batts then only accept what current that they can get  relative to the volts that the 'smart' charger decidedly adjusts for
 4- it's finally all stored as power in the batteries, P=I X E (except for the rest that you use in the RV direct from charger/converter)

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #39 on: January 18, 2018, 11:21:03 AM »
The charger portion of the converter/charger regulates the volts applied to the battery and the smarter ones also limit the max amps, this managing the charging process.   The amperage rating for the converter merely defines the maximum available for use, not what actually goes to the battery at any instant.  Furthermore, those max converter amps are shared between the charging function and any other DC consumption, e.g. lights, water pump, etc.  A larger converter allows the charger to run at optimum levels and still have plenty of amps left to power other things.  A too-small rated converter might run short of amps if a lot of things are drawing power at the same time battery charging is active.   However, once you have enough amps to meet the demands, having extra amps available buys you nothing at all.

Higher-end devices can specify a share to be applied charging vs other functions, but that is usually found only in the more sophisticated inverter/converter/charger devices
« Last Edit: January 18, 2018, 11:24:58 AM by Gary RV_Wizard »
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #40 on: January 18, 2018, 12:10:59 PM »
" A larger converter allows the charger to run at optimum levels and still have plenty of amps left to power other things."

 8) That sounds like my wife waking up on a typical morning here when I'm already gone to work  ;D ...Her Keurig, the furnace or AC, all twenty some-odd lamps/bulbs, and her hair dryer  ::) ;D

 Maybe I should push for an 80 DC amp charger  ???  :o

 I might, if it didn't require rewiring  ;D

 But, honestly, I can't say that she's really that bad. With the AC current panel, she religiously watches our demands on shore power, at least enough to know not to run more than two major appliances at once. Sometimes, in the case of her hot flashes  :o :-[, both of the two air conditioners simultaneously get priority over the convection oven  ;D

John Hilley

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #41 on: January 18, 2018, 02:36:08 PM »
With your setup you would probably never have to rewire. The only cable that would possibly have to be rewired would be the battery cables, but you will never run your batteries down completely on shore power. Even if you did the batteries would never use that many charging amps and the 12 volt coach side of things is fused for the 45 amp converter and wouldn't allow more than when the 45 amp converter was in place.
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Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #42 on: January 18, 2018, 05:45:42 PM »
Quote
That sounds like my wife waking up on a typical morning here when I'm already gone to work  ;D ...Her Keurig, the furnace or AC, all twenty some-odd lamps/bulbs, and her hair dryer

LOL!  But much of what you mentioned is 120v shore power, not DC. The furnace and all those lights are maybe 30A-35A of DC.
Gary
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #43 on: January 18, 2018, 06:51:12 PM »
With your setup you would probably never have to rewire. The only cable that would possibly have to be rewired would be the battery cables, but you will never run your batteries down completely on shore power. Even if you did the batteries would never use that many charging amps and the 12 volt coach side of things is fused for the 45 amp converter and wouldn't allow more than when the 45 amp converter was in place.

So, John, going with a higher current converter/charger would serve little purpose :o than, perhaps, having a slightly ovverrated supply that might feel less taxed due to comparatively less demand.. like, say, my 30 amp Astron supplying my radio in receive (500mA)... The Astron never breaks a sweat, has lasted forever 8)

Your right, Gary, my fault ::) much of those are AC.. I have been taking more notice of the RV’s “Energy Management System” AC current consumption display, especially since using the Astron for supplying the DC. Flick on one pair of lights: another 1 amp+/-; a ‘pair of pairs’ (lights up front): another 2+/-. It adds up, on the AC side of things, too!

What you say, John, makes sense in another respect... I mean, why would an RV manufacturer place a totality of DC loads and their totality of fuses demanding from a power supply/charger of inadequate current? :o (and how often do we RV campsite “shoremen” really demand that much DC load at one given time?) ???

I have read that site on lead acid batteries (recommended by kdbgoat), and of numerous persons who have suffered with failing DC 'aux' switches/solenoids/relays (as for me, I often I just tend to forget checking that darned DC 'aux' switch when I climb in), What if I, say, got rid of the solenoid switch mess, put a knife switch in on the coach batt positive, occasionally close it to allow the charger to charge 'em, then open the batt pos knife and allow the charger to supply exclusively to any other DC loads (besides batts), direct to the bus bar/fuses/DC equipment (as the charger/PS usu. is wired, but here w/ batts left removed in a true sitby, batts removed w/o a doubt when knife positive switch is broken). I mean, that site kdbgoat referred me to said periods of months that unused lead acids could go w/o a charge (although I'm sure that a little more often may prevent sulfation?) The batts get involved, when I want/need them to get involved, w/ one less actively failing component (solenoid relay/switch) involved.

Okay, my fault?... quoting kdbgoat recommended site Batteryuniversity: "Lead acid batteries must always be stored in a charged state [does this mean charging present or charged up past tense?]. A topping charge should be applied every 6 months to prevent the voltage from dropping below 2.05V/cell and causing the battery to sulfate"

The Winnie manual says: "Auxiliary Battery (Aux. Batt) Switch The AUX BATT switch disconnects the auxiliary (coach) batteries from the 12-volt system of your coach to avoid long-term battery drain by electrical items that are hooked directly to the coach batteries, such as clock displays and radio memories, etc. Always leave this switch ON except during storage periods."

Sooo
1-WHAT does this 'aux' switch connect/ disconnect (I don't relate a clock display w/ a furnace fan)? ???
2-Which state does the solenoid relay require power for switching to (I wouldn't think that it would actuate relay to disconnect batt, or then maybe that relay coil is really put through its paces (full-time relay coil actuating power), for us 24/7 'shoremen', at least)? ??? Regardless of where the power comes from, you can't expect to hold a relay in forever :o

« Last Edit: January 19, 2018, 09:56:49 AM by rookieRV »

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #44 on: January 19, 2018, 09:20:20 AM »
The solenoids are for convenience, of course, but also because most of us forget to open and close manual switches, especially for things that work best with some advance planning. Life happens, and we get distracted.  You have a battery disconnected, and then realize you need it and find it totally discharged because it hasn't been switched to the charger recently.  Or you go to turn on a light at night and realize you forgot to switch the power on while it was still light outside. Or whatever.
Gary
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John Canfield

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #45 on: January 19, 2018, 09:55:20 AM »
Batteries will self-discharge due to internal resistance, some faster than others due to their particular battery chemistry. The best long term solution for battery health is a continuous float charge at the appropriate voltage. I've owned our Horizon since it was new and the battery banks have always had a float charge.

Charging a battery twice a year might or might not work well. Chances are my Lifeline AGM house batteries could remain at rest for six months but there is zero reason to attempt this.
--John
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John Hilley

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #46 on: January 19, 2018, 11:28:41 AM »
The Battery Disconnect Solenoid, is a latching relay and only needs a "pulse" of 12 vdc to change states. The coil is only actuated momentarily and not continuously.

How Battery Disconnect Relay Works
https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/electrical/battery_disconnect.pdf
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #47 on: January 19, 2018, 11:33:29 AM »
So I guess that I should give up on that wacky idea :-[, leave it as is, keep flicking the 'aux' switch (located inside of the entry door stairway, to make sure it's in the on position while 24/7 'shore' living), and be ready to eventually replace a solenoid and/or switch when it goes kaput :( Would such replacement be like simply pulling out and replacing a vacuum tube 8), or SMT soldering with a shaky hand :o?

Oh, momentarily, not continuously...:-[  A latching relay, in effect? 8) After reading abt. them, I'd almost bet that frequent use lubes the mechanics/contacts involved, huh ;)
« Last Edit: January 19, 2018, 12:09:21 PM by rookieRV »

John Hilley

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #48 on: January 19, 2018, 03:21:45 PM »
Very simple to replace. The way you are using power, there is never a reason for you to switch it. I have two motor homes and they are plugged in all the time when at home. When we travel we almost exclusively boondock and dry camp with solar power. I never switch mine. You have nothing to worry about once you get a new converter.

The solenoid/relay that is more troublesome is the Battery Isolation Solenoid that separates the house and chassis batteries.
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #49 on: January 19, 2018, 05:53:39 PM »
Sorry if I’m seeming more and morelike a worrywart, gentlemen, but I greatly, greatly appreciate all of your wisdom and advice. Good news! The 1 ft. 1 ga. batt parallel cables came in today!  :D The terminals are great (at least compared to the aged/shaved ones on there before ::)), lots of contact surface area! 8)

Now, in addition to the pair of 1 ga +/- feeding off the batts into the RV, there are a pair of 8-10 ga wires (+ and - , both fed loosely together inside a shared black split wire loom). The positive of this smaller pair has an inline screw-in fuse, rated 50 amps (VOM says fuse is still good), but one (both?) of these terminals meant for the batt posts are quite ”thin”, somewhat lacking in overall exposed surface area (I think that they’ve been this way since we’ve had this RV for the last 5 years, and the occasional sanding/dremmelling probably hasn’t helped much, either) I pulled out the 32volt, 50 amp fuse and held it beside the cable’s terminal... the cable’s terminal appears to barely exceed the fuses metal thickness/width/surface area, overall. If I find a washer large enough, then the 1 mm thick terminal closed loop may provide about a .5 cm X 1 cm area of contact, between the terminal’s closed hole and its crimped end. While the width of the opposite half completes the loop (it surely still holds it on the post okay), it provides little by way of contact (1 mm width going around this second half of the closed circle). May be time for new terminals (wish that I could show it)? One of these would obviously have to be replaced “at the scene” :'( Wonder if my present Greenlee hand ratcheting crimpers could be adapted for anything comparable...

So, I have two coach batteries, feeding to/from what with the black/red, 1 ga. cable pair?

Same two coach batts, feeding to/from what with the thinner, 8-10 ga./50 amp fused cable pair?


   

« Last Edit: January 20, 2018, 08:17:29 AM by rookieRV »

John Canfield

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #50 on: January 20, 2018, 07:06:57 AM »
....So, I have two coach batteries, feeding to/from what with the black/red, 1 ga. cable pair?  Same two coach batts, feeding to/from what with the thinner, 8-10 ga./50 amp fused cable pair?
Have you printed out your wiring diagram?
--John
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #51 on: January 20, 2018, 09:40:37 AM »
So far on the schematic I’ve found two parallel coach batts going w/ “1/0” ga red positive to battery mode solenoid (and to 1 ga. going to batt disconnect relay, by series extension) and “1/0” ga black to a negative bus bar... and no other wire pair going to any other load off batts ???

Whew! I looked back at the site that I ordered the 1ft. 1 ga parallel batt cables from, they say 1 ga for 245 amps continuous, or 1/0 ga for 285 amps continuous (and you can’t have an oversized cable [until you need a fuse ;)] right?) The old used ones are 1/0 ga, but the Winnie schematic says 1 ga between batts. I doubt that it makes much difference. ???

A 45 amp charger/converter (the now defunct one), and a 50 amp fused 10 ga positive wire going to coach batts. Related? ??? What are these 10 ga wires doing/going from the batts to? ???
« Last Edit: January 21, 2018, 07:57:46 AM by rookieRV »

John Canfield

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #52 on: January 21, 2018, 07:29:38 AM »
....What are these 10 ga wires doing/going from the batts to? ???
If they aren't documented, they might have been added by a previous owner (assuming you haven't owned it since new.)
--John
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rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #53 on: January 21, 2018, 09:06:56 AM »
Once that I get a new charger/converter (or even now, I guess), I could VOM test the 10 ga. fused red positive against its negative 10 ga black counterpart.

Or the, “Don’t connect the 10 ga fused to batts, and see what doesn’t work.” test ;D

Or the really hard way, and get underneath to try and “follow the black split loom path” (when the weather gets a little better) ;D
« Last Edit: January 21, 2018, 11:43:47 AM by rookieRV »

CharlesinGA

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #54 on: January 21, 2018, 08:34:53 PM »
Progressive Dynamics 4645 or 4655 would be a slide in replacement for the existing Parallax unit, about a 30 minute to 1 hr swap and made for this exact replacement scenario.

http://www.bestconverter.com/4600-series-Upgrade-Kits_c_133.html

Eliminates cooked batteries. I only have to add water twice a year, if that.

Charles
2007 Winnebago View 523H on a 2006 Dodge (Daimler-Chrysler aka Mercedes) Sprinter 3500 chassis (T1N). Bought Sept 2015 with 18K miles on it, Prog Ind HW30C, Prog Dymanics PD4645, Coleman Chill Grille, PML/Yourcovers.com deep alum trans pan, AutoMeter 8558 trans temp gauge, Roadmaster sway bar, Koni Red shocks (front & rear), Fantastic Ultra Breeze hood, added OEM parabolic mirrors and RH aspherical mirror, MB grill conversion.
2007 Winnebago View 523H, 2006 Dodge (Daimler-Chrysler aka Mercedes) Sprinter 3500 chassis. Bought Sept 2015 with 18K miles, Prog Ind HW30C, Prog Dynamics PD4645, Chill Grille, Fanstatic Fan Ultrabreeze, PML/Yourcovers.com deep alum trans pan, Roadmaster sway bar

rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #55 on: January 22, 2018, 08:24:31 PM »
CharlesinGA, I like the format of those models of charger/converters, particularly because one has access to the ‘guts’ (fans, resistors, capacitors, etc.) of the appliance 8). My 2005 Itasca, however, has ‘pop rod’ DC circuit breakers already built into the upper right of the steel power panel (across from the AC circuit breakers, on the upper left). While the power panel may offer adequate space for these charger’s sheet metal box chassis down below, it may require cutting off the lower half of the electrical panel :o (for mounting/air/access). The RV here is pretty much set for a ‘closed appliance’ charger/converter (but so far,  the cases of all these ‘plug-n-play’ chargers appear riveted together like my Parallax was >:(, instead of bolts/screws... even my Astrons give me accessability :)). The Parallax charger was screwed to the floor in a crevasse underneath of the kitchen drawers, and most all properly rated ‘sealed appliance’ replacements seem small enough to fit in that area.8)

The DC distribution is pretty much established, from the charger (in the kitchen) to a bus bar (one in the kitchen) to the individual DC circuits (and DC circuit breakers, at one [or 2 points? More DC breakers @ propane tanks!], somewhere along the way). Besides, being a simple 3-wire ‘install & plug’ (the closed box ‘plug-n-play’, ‘sealed appliance’ charger/converter variety), why should I want DC circuit breakers replaced with fuses (do I really want/need to go that far)? ???

Wait! Some Iota use chassis screws! 8) 8)

But most of the Progressives have their sole vent holes on the opposite side of the fan (pulling air across the entire internal area 8) (and the wired wizard) 8)

Hmmm...

« Last Edit: January 22, 2018, 09:39:20 PM by rookieRV »

rookieRV

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #56 on: January 31, 2018, 03:02:53 PM »
Okay, my accountant (she doubles as my wife  ::)) has told me, “Buy it.” One issue remains on my mind: Most every brand these days are switching square wave power supplies (not pure sine wave/linear, like, say, the Astrons for my radios 8)). Which brand of charger/converter is the least likely to require additional Faraday shielding/ brute force chokes/ filter capacitors to keep their noise out of my HF radios >:( >:(?
« Last Edit: January 31, 2018, 04:26:02 PM by rookieRV »

John Canfield

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #57 on: January 31, 2018, 05:26:22 PM »
I have the pure sine wave 2,000 watt Magnum and it's very RF quiet (I use my Elecraft K3s in the coach.) I think most of the higher end non-PSW inverters are modified sine wave, i.e., stepped.
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John Hilley

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #58 on: January 31, 2018, 05:27:59 PM »
If your current converter didn't interfere, I wouldn't be concerned about any of the better converters.
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Lou Schneider

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Re: 2005 Itasca Sunnova Parallax Charger... Failure?
« Reply #59 on: January 31, 2018, 06:27:16 PM »
Your Astron is a linear supply, all of the inverters I know of use some kind of switching.  Either twice a half cycle to produce a pulsed output (not an actual square wave) or using more steps to approximate a sine wave output.

Pretty much all of them meet the FCC Class B noise standards, but you can get more noise suppression by sending their input and output wires through ferrite cores, etc.  It also helps to make the DC input wires into a twisted pair instead of leaving them straight to act like an antenna between the inverter and the batteries.
« Last Edit: January 31, 2018, 06:29:11 PM by Lou Schneider »