No LP in coach!!

This is all new to me so I will do the best to explain.
The info panel says the LP is full, the tank gauge says 1/2. I turned on the valve and tried to light the stove, no gas, no gas smell or noise.
The fridge does not switch to LP.
The front furnace fan runs non stop and does not does not heat.
I knew the back thermostat was broken and I was going to replace it so no way to test that one.
The LP detector was unplugged so I plugged it back in and I now have a green light on the panel but still no LP in the coach.
I am heading out with a multi meter to see if there is voltage at the cutoff valve.
I may remove the valve and see if there is LP in the tank.

What else should I look for?
Why is the blower staying on? What can I look at to get it to stop blowing non stop?
Owners manual says the furnaces are Atwood 8535 models.

1999 Tradition 

It may take a minute or 2 for the air to bleed out of the line. Keep the gas on and just try to keep lighting the stove for a few. I know ours takes a minute or so to bleed when it has been off for a while.

The furnace blower comes on for the attempted ignition cycle and stays on the vent any gas fumes that might have accumulated during a failed ignition attempt. The thermostat is still calling for heat, and the fan stays on even though the ignition circuit is in "lock-out" (no further attempts to light). Just flip the thermostat off to stop it, and flip the thermostat back on to start another ignition cycle (3 more attempts to light).

Thnaks Gary!
I figured it out the fan issue while messing around inside. I need to get LP into the coach first and then see about the furnace issue. I am mechanic and have my good multi meter at work and I thought I had another at home but I can't find it right now.

I took the LP line off after the safety valve and still no LP flow. I am hoping that the tank is empty and that both the gauges are reading wrong.     

Pour some hot water down the side of the tank, then run your hand down the side looking for a change in temperature..  Propane is stored in liquid form and it's an excellent heat sink.

If there is propane in the tank, the tank wall above the liquid level will be heated by the hot water while the metal adjacent to the liquid propane stays noticeably cooler.

For a horizontal tank, you'll probably have to use the flat end of the tank.

Your coach was manufactured with a CCI 7719 propane detector that will turn off the propane when it detects propane in the air.
It has an on/off switch. Did you turn it on? It will be located near the floor in the kitchen.

If you have it filled then you know its full..  the gauges are famously poor,, don't trust them for accurate info.>>>Dan

ChiefM, like you said, the first thing is to get propane in to the coach. The easiest is to use the stove to bleed air from the system. I would try switching the propane detector off and on. These have a shut off valve and are known to quit working/malfunction. Some people have just taken this valve out/bypassed it I would use the pouring water on the tank trick to verify you have propane. Once you have the stove burning then the furnace should start. Like Gary said you may have to recycle the thermostat a couple of times to get it to light the first time.
Let us know. Aren't new toys fun.
Bill

I had to run to town today and get some water line anti-freeze to make sure I don't have any further problems. What the heck happened to global worming and above average temps they forecast?It's suppose to be 19 tonight in north Georgia.  Anyway I bought a multi-meter today to keep in the coach and there is no power at the valve. I looked at the propane detector by the floor in the kitchen and there does not seem to be a switch. There are 3 wires coming out of the detector 2 red and a yellow. One of the reds was disconnected and there was no light on at the detector. I put the loose red wire in with the other red wire, there is a wire nut there. I now have a green light at the detector but still no power at the valve.

I am probibly just going to end up taking the auto shut off valve out of the system completely. With my luck I would fix it and then it would go out during our vacation. As long as I can get her up to par for our beach trip in July. I got her a steal so I'm not complaining about repairs right now. She only has 71 thousand, looks great, runs and drives great, gen set works wonderfully. So I figure everything else can be repaired or replaced.

Yes Bill new toys with issues are so much fun

"I am probibly just going to end up taking the auto shut off valve out of the system completely. With my luck I would fix it and then it would go out during our vacation. As long as I can get her up to par for our beach trip in July. I got her a steal so I'm not complaining about repairs right now. She only has 71 thousand, looks great, runs and drives great, gen set works wonderfully. So I figure everything else can be repaired or replaced."
Most off those detectors don't have a very long service life. I would do away with that one and buy new separate propane and CO2 detectors. Mount the propane low and the CO high.
Hope that fixes it.
Bill

All propane detectors have a drop dead date and some have it printed on them.  The disconnected wire was probably to stop the thing from chirping incessantly when it was going bad from old age.  My old one would set up but would alarm at just about anything - cologne, hair spray, farts, .....lol.

Bill

The other thing is that the requirement for the shutoff valve has been dropped.  Most just remove it and be done with it.  Not sure if you can even get a new detector with the shutoff valve feature.  None of the ones at my local RV store had the valve.

Someone has replaced the original detector with a Safe-T-Alert one that has no on/off switch or lead for the valve. Now it has me scratching my head as to why the PO didn't they bypass the valve to get LP into the coach. Maybe they were just fine with micro/ convection oven. But still you would not have heat or hot water. Just plain weird to me. I am going to pull it off and try to get something up to take the valve completely out of the system when I head into town later.

If there are two red wires on the detector, they are for dual 12v power sources. One would connect to the chassis 12v system and the other to the house 12v system and the detector keeps those two isolated internally.  The idea was to always have power to the detector, even if the house batteries go dead (like maybe you left the lights on).  The yellow is probably a 12v ground. 

You seem to have no connection from  the detector to the LP shutoff valve, though. At a guess, some other power source was used to simply force the valve open 24/7. It doesn't actually use 12v for the valve - it should be a pulsed, lower DC voltage.  If somebody just put +12v on it, it is probably burned out by now.  In any case, just remove it. It is no longer required by the gas & fire code (NFPA 1192) because it did not provide any meaningful extra protection.

The output of the LP regulator is very low pressure, 11" WC or about 0.5 psi. It's not all that easy to detect either by feel, sound or smell (in open air), so check carefully.  On the other hand, the input to the regulator is very high pressure, usually 200-300 psi, so quickly detectable. There is a small screw-in port on the side of the tank called a bleeder valve. It's purpose is to show the 80% liquid level during a fill, but it's an easy way to check for vapor in the tank as well. If there is any useful amount of LP in the tank, you should get a easily detectable vapor stream when you open the bleeder valve.
http://www.propane101.com/fixedliquidlevelgauge.htm

I took the pipe and valve off after the regulator and there is LP in the tank. I have the valve and the small piece of pipe off and heading to town to fix the mom in-laws oven. HD is my fist stop after I get done at her house. It's 25 degrees outside and my fingers are frozen. I figured they cut the reds to limit battery draw for some reason. I hope to report back with good news later on today. 

SUCCESS!!
I took the valve out and put a piece of pipe in it's place. I put gas tape on all the fittings, checked for leaks and I got the stove to work and then the front hearer kicked in too! I need to replace the rear thermostat to see if the rear heater to work. I need to see if the fridge with work on LP and the water heater too. I have a question for anyone that has this type of coach. The heater fan is blowing but not real high, is that normal?

Update: The fridge woks on gas too!

I feel like I have had a successful weekend and are one step closer to our vacation in July.

Glad you have it fixed..Just for the record, most LP tanks are fitted with an excess flow valve..sometimes when the valve is being opened too fast this will sense too much flow and go to "safety lock out" and no matter what you do it will not allow any gas to flow.  Always, when you have to open any LP tank valve do it very slowly even to a point of just opening it a quarter turn and waiting for pressure build up ..after that you can open it fully . 

The heater fan is blowing but not real high, is that normal?

Click to expand...

Probably, since there isn't much that can go wrong with fan speed. Hard to say, though, without actually hearing and feeling what yours does.

You may have the Atwood furnace model that has two-speed fan and two burner stages, the 2334 model rather than the single fan/stage 89xx or 85xx.  Check the furnace model number so we can give better advice. The later year American Coaches had that one, and the low speed is very quiet and not real powerful. The higher speed can be selected via thermostat or will be automatically used if the temperature differential is more than about 4 degrees.

The other possibilities for poor air circulation are crimped ducts and semi-closed outlets. You probably have flex ducting that runs behind cabinets and sometimes those get squished or turn corners at such a sharp angle that the tube collapses.

Possible simple fix for heater fan speed.  Mine has a two speed switch - hi and low.  Does yours have such an animal?  But my Lo is not what I would call low as it is a pretty hefty speed.

ChiefM said:

SUCCESS!!
I took the valve out and put a piece of pipe in it's place. I put gas tape on all the fittings, checked for leaks and I got the stove to work and then the front hearer kicked in too! I need to replace the rear thermostat to see if the rear heater to work. I need to see if the fridge with work on LP and the water heater too. I have a question for anyone that has this type of coach. The heater fan is blowing but not real high, is that normal?

Update: The fridge woks on gas too!

I feel like I have had a successful weekend and are one step closer to our vacation in July.

Click to expand...

That is good news. I wouldn't light the hot water tank with no water in it.
Hear is something to try on the rear thermostat. Turn all settings to off. Pull the cover of and remove the fuse and check it. Sometimes just doing this will re set the thermostat. On the fan speed make shure the thermostat is in the right "Mode" and the "Auto" fan speed is selected.
Making progress is a good thing.
Bill