Low hot water pressure

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Shoeless Rver

Shoeless Rver

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 25, 2014
Posts
68
Location
Texas
We are full time Rv'ers, been living in a 2014 Forrest River Brookstone 315rl for 3 years. Recently we've lost water pressure on the hot water side in all sinks/showers. I searched the website already and all the answers had to do with winterizing. Since we live here full time, we haven't done anything to winterize, per se. It has been freezing her in Texas the past week but I've been having this issue for the past 2 months.....slowing reducing water pressure to a trickle. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
 
Is it possible sediment got into all the screens?  Sure sounds like a blockage, maybe in water heater?  If it was me, I would turn off water heater, turn off water to water heater, take out bottom anode rod, and then I would blow air in reverse, blowing from inside faucets towards water heater.  I then would rinse out water heater the best I could, and reassemble.
 
kdbgoat said:
Check valve getting covered in crud?
Click to expand...

If you have a 1 or 2 valve winterizing system, as said, your check valve on the output side (top pipe) most likely has failed which is quite common. We see it all the time on the forum. What you need to do is shut off the water and the electricity to the heating element if you have a 110 volt water heater. After the water has cooled a little, drain the tank.  Once drained, disconnect the top pipe from the fitting coming out of the tank. That fitting, which is a check valve, could be either brass or plastic. Then remove that fitting. Seeing that there is no need for you to winterize, take a screwdriver and a hammer and drive out the internals so there's nothing inside of it.  Reinstall the fitting with pipe dope on the threads then remake the pipe to the fitting.

Fill the tank back up making sure you all the air out of it before you turn on the electric element.

Note: Sometimes there will also be a check valve on the bottom pipe but it's rare.

Here is a video explaining everything. The only thing is that in the video, the guy wraps Teflon tape around the fitting where the water pipe makes up to. Do not do that. That is not what seals the joint. The seal is a cone shaped rubber washer inside the nut on the end of the pipe. If you have a leak there, just replace that seal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMqm_dPme8k
 
kdbgoat said:
Check valve getting covered in crud?
Click to expand...

That would be my guess as well. Have seen it "in the wild" and in my sticks and bricks as well only in the house it was the outlet line (pipe) curdding up.. I finally go tired of it, Hacksawed the pipe and headed to ye old hardware with a custom pipe shop. Replaced the half inch now about  1/8 inch clogged artery with a nice new 3/4 inch pipe.. NICE HOT SHOWER>
 
If you are going to all the bother of removing the check valve fitting, replace it with a new check valve fitting or you will not have a way to quickly winterize the trailer. And if you sell it the next guy will not know you removed it.
 
The anode in the water heater deteriorates over time leaving quite a bit of residue.  I change mine and clean the tank every at least once when I winterize.  The water we normally use will almost completely deteriorate an anode rod in less than one year.  If you haven't changed the anode rod and flushed the water heater, that could be the source of your problem.
 
Larry's reference to an anode refers only to Suburban heaters. The drain plug is a large (1 1/16") steel bolt with the anode on the inside. Atwood brand heaters do not use them. Atwood heaters can be identified by the smaller red plastic drain plugs.
 
Alfa38User said:
Larry's reference to an anode refers only to Suburban heaters. The drain plug is a large (1 1/16") steel bolt with the anode on the inside. Atwood brand heaters do not use them. Atwood heaters can be identified by the smaller red plastic drain plugs.
Click to expand...
They can also be white, gray and black.
 
If you have an outdoor shower check the hot and cold valves and make sure they are closed good. If they are open water will flow through and prevent the proper high temperature and reduce the pressure. Hope this helps you.
 
So, i totally forgot I posted this. Sorry I havent answered anyone. My husband is on hospuce so I'm a little busy. Anyway.......just a few things to say, my hit water heater is only about 6 months old so Im hoping its not that.  I recentlt repkaced the watee filter so it shouldnt ve it. However, I took ut out completely and the pressure is great in all faucets EXCEPT the kitchen. Its a little better there but not like it should be. I took the faucet head off and the pressure is good with the cold water but not as good on the hot water side.. I'm  "older", so crawling up under this thing isn't something I want to do. Guess I'll have to bite thw bullet and call a repair giy. Thanks y'all for all your help.
 
Sorry we have nothing obvious to help you.  Since you have good pressure  elsewhere, and hot water elsewhere, you can rule out both the water filter and the water heater itself.  And since you get good cold water flow at the kitchen faucet, it won't be the faucet screen either.  My best guess is that it is a single level faucet that mixes hot & cold and that the mixing valve is clogged or worn. That's usually an easy fix, but it helps if you've done a faucet repair before.  Maybe a friendly neighbor could help if you don't have the tools or want to try yourself.
 
Thanks. I'm not opposed to try fixing anything my self as long as I dont have to crawl on my belly into places where creepy things go, lol. And, yes, it ia a single lever faucet. I'll google how to repair that and see what happens. Thanks again.
 
Each faucet brand will disassemble a bit differently and have a different internal valve or "cartridge", but the process is usually simple once it is known. Delta, Moen, Pfister, and other well-known brands are usually well documented, but other less known brands may not be.

Lowes has some general instructions for the two most common types, ball and cartridge, but details will vary.
https://www.lowes.com/projects/bed-and-bath/repair-leaky-single-handle-faucet/project
 
As usual, Gary is correct.  If all else fails or if you want a different style fixture, replacing the whole fixture is almost as easy as fixing the current one.  Any fixture that will work in a house should work in the camper as long as the holes line up.  99% of all kitchen faucets are 8" On Center or a single hole fixture, which fits anything.
 
kdbgoat said:
Check valve getting covered in crud?
Click to expand...

That was my first thought too.  They get clogged often.  They break often.  Replace them with brass.

Once or twice a year you're supposed to remove the anode rod (if you got one) or the nylon plug at the low point of the WH tank and blow it out with one of these.
 

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Soooooooo, i went on Amazon and found an $8.00 replacement head for my faucet. Low and behold its working 80 % better. Good enough ror me!
 
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