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Author Topic: Fresh water inlet  (Read 1221 times)

clockdrfla

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Fresh water inlet
« on: January 23, 2018, 04:28:45 AM »
My water pressure is quite low inside.  At the connection on the RV there is a cone shaped screen attached to a rubber washer.  I removed this screen and behind this is some sort of valve that has a little tip that can be pushed in and when released returns to original position.  Iím assuming the cone shaped screen is just a filter but not sure what the valve behind it does.  Kindly explain.  Thanks

SeilerBird

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #1 on: January 23, 2018, 04:54:56 AM »
It is a valve to prevent back flow from the tank to the hose.
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JackL

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2018, 05:02:27 AM »
It is a check valve and explained in the post above.
When winterizing, make sure to put a few drops of pink stuff in there via a spoon or eye dropper or if there is residual water there it can freeze and break it.

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SeilerBird

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #3 on: January 23, 2018, 05:05:09 AM »
Good tip Jack, I never thought of that. But then again I have never winterized. I am a permanent snowbird. ;D
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clockdrfla

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #4 on: January 23, 2018, 05:24:51 AM »
What would cause such low pressure from faucets inside RV?

Rene T

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #5 on: January 23, 2018, 07:01:21 AM »
To be a little more specific, when you are running the water pump and the entire system is pressurized, this check valve stops water from shooting out.
 
As far as the pressure, how is the pressure at the end of the hose before you connect it to the inlet?
Do you have a built in filter? If you do, you may need to change the filter element/cartridge.
If it's all the faucets, remove the screen filters on each faucet and clean them. They may be plugged up with sediment.
Do you use a water pressure regulator?  If you do, it may need adjusting. If you use one of the cheap one's that's about 3" long, throw it away and get a good one. 
« Last Edit: January 23, 2018, 07:09:46 AM by Rene T »
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kdbgoat

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #6 on: January 23, 2018, 07:06:55 AM »
And if they're plugged with sediment, I would recommend the messy job of flushing out your water system with the screen out. Water seems to go every where when you do this, so have towels ready. I would also recommend flushing your water heater first. It seems most of the "sediment" comes from there from what I have experienced. If you follow the manufacturers recommendations, and do a good vinegar cleaning, you will be surprised how much stuff comes out of your water heater.
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lynnmor

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #7 on: January 23, 2018, 07:47:19 AM »

Do you use a water pressure regulator?  If you do, it may need adjusting. If you use one of the cheap one's that's about 3" long, throw it away and get a good one.

Probably the best advice.  Till he answers the regulator question, it is hard to give any more suggestions.

massspike

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #8 on: January 23, 2018, 08:54:58 AM »
When winterizing, make sure to put a few drops of pink stuff in there via a spoon or eye dropper or if there is residual water there it can freeze and break it.

You can also just push in the valve after filling the system with anti-freeze. There should be enough pressure to force anti-freeze out (and onto your shoes).

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #9 on: January 23, 2018, 09:56:00 AM »
Expanding a bit on Rene's reply, do you have the same low pressure problem when using the pump & tank vs city water? If so, the problem is somewhere inside the RV, not at the inlet or pump. The clogged faucet screens is one common cause, but sometimes there is a kinked water line or other physical problem.

Also, "low pressure" is subjective. The RV's pump runs at about 45 psi, and campground water supplies may be anywhere from 30 to as much as 100, but 40-65 is typical.  You may enjoy 60+ psi at home, in which case 40-45 can seem awfully low. Many people complain primarily about the shower head, which is usually flow restricted at about 2 gpm regardless of pressure.  A better quality shower head, e.g.an Oxygenics often delivers much better "pressure", and in many models of showerhead the restriction disc can be removed to help it out.
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clockdrfla

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #10 on: January 23, 2018, 01:18:06 PM »
Do not use pump and tank, have always connected to city water.  Removed screen filter, even though it is clear, and reconnected hose.  Pressure is good, best it has ever been.  Doesnít make any sense.

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #11 on: January 23, 2018, 02:44:01 PM »
What do you mean it doesn't make any sense. You removed the screen and the pressure increased. That was obviously your problem. You need to go to a hardware store and buy a new one.
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BIG JOE

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #12 on: January 23, 2018, 03:05:11 PM »
Do not use pump and tank, have always connected to city water.  Removed screen filter, even though it is clear, and reconnected hose.  Pressure is good, best it has ever been.  Doesn’t make any sense.

Two more Hints ?

1. Remove the City Water Inlet Screened Washer, and replace it with an "O" ring type washer ?

2. On All the Faucets.. disassemble the faucet Aerators and remove the +/- 1/8th" [flow restrictor disks], but leave the small screens in place when reassembling ?

Doing the above, and using a 5/8ths, or 3/4" supply hose.. you will be getting the optimal flow rate (GPM) your Rig plumbing is capable of.. and still have sediment filtration* from screens in each faucet aerator ?

In addition ? Some faucets have screens (as mentioned earlier) in each Hot and Cold valve assembly. I've removed mine, due to the aerator screens providing the needed filtration ? (Your call on that)

* clean them once a year ?

Joe
« Last Edit: January 23, 2018, 10:15:44 PM by BIG JOE »
Joe

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #13 on: January 23, 2018, 07:00:30 PM »
Two more Hints ?

1. Remove the City Water Inlet Screened Washer, and replace it with an "O" ring type washer.

Doing the above, and using a 5/8ths, or 3/4" supply hose.. you will be getting the optimal flow rate (GPM) your Rig plumbing is capable of.. and still have sediment filtration* from screens in each faucet aerator.

I don't know why you'd want to use a O Ring. Just get a regular garden hose washer. But I wouldn't run water through that entry point without the screen. It  can be nearly impossible to clean any sediment out of the shower wand if some grit does get into the system. My shower wand doesn't come apart and it does have a couple of holes that are plugged by grit.  IMHO, always use a screen.
Using a 5/8" or 3/4" hose is kinda overkill IMHO.  Your entire water system in the RV is 1/2" so using a hose larger than 1/2" will probably not make any difference once again, IMHO.
« Last Edit: January 23, 2018, 09:26:51 PM by Rene T »
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grashley

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #14 on: January 23, 2018, 07:42:42 PM »
Clearly, the sediment screen was clogged, causing your problem.  The fact it WAS clogged proves its importance!

You may want to consider an in line filter in the incoming water line somewhere before the camper.  It will remove much finer sediment than a simple screen, as well as other contaminants.
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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #15 on: January 23, 2018, 10:13:49 PM »
I don't know why you'd want to use a O Ring. Just get a regular garden hose washer. But I wouldn't run water through that entry point without then screen. It  can be nearly impossible to clean any sediment out of the shower wand if some grit does get into the system. My shower wand doesn't come apart and it does have a couple of holes that are plugged by grit.  IMHO, always use a screen.
Using a 5/8" or 3/4" hose is kinda overkill IMHO.  Your entire water system in the RV is 1/2" so using a hose larger than 1/2" will probably not make any difference once again, IMHO.

When I posted.. "O" ring [type] of washer (?), they are sold in Garden sections as an alternative to the common, flat, rubber hose washers.. but they don't dry out, split, deform, or disintegrate, as those tend to do. With the frequent.. Hooking & unhooking we do.. they (in my experience) Last Indefinitely... with No Pliers required.

His/her own call (as is everything on here) on using, or not using the Inlet screen/washer ?

IJMHO ? A liquid [Supply line] should be ideally be.. of a larger capacity (Dia).. than a [Service line]. Most all Hookup risers/bibs are 3/4". So using a 5/8ths, or 3/4" Hose as a continuance of the hookup riser size, would [help] deliver the optimum Park GPM and PSI available.. to our Rigs.  Less friction/restriction, if you will ?   

My post was Just meant to be "Hints", Guys & Gals.. Not Guidance & Direction. I was just passing on "Hints".    ;) :)
« Last Edit: January 24, 2018, 03:56:20 PM by BIG JOE »
Joe

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Rene T

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #16 on: January 24, 2018, 08:03:58 AM »
When I posted.. "O" ring [type] of washer (?), they are sold in Garden sections as an alternative to the common, flat, rubber hose washers.. but they don't dry out, split, deform, or disintegrate, as those tend to do. With the frequent.. Hooking & unhooking we do.. they (in my experience) Last Indefinitely... with No Pliers required.

Thanks for the breakdown. It makes some sense.  I'm going to buy one and give it a shot. 
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Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #17 on: January 24, 2018, 12:36:55 PM »
Quote
IJHMO ? A liquid [Supply line] should be ideally be.. of a larger capacity (Dia).. than a [Service line].

Understand, but that guideline mostly refers to a primary supply that serves multiple branch (service) lines.   The RV city inlet has less than 1/4" diameter inlet to its check valve, and it then feeds a 1/2" Rv internal main supply before reaching the service branches, so using a large external line is of limited value in this case. Can't hurt, though, and it helps compensate for kinks and the friction of longer hoses (e.g. the common 25 footer).

A common 1/2", 25 ft long potable water hose can deliver as much as 24 gallons/minute (gpm) at 40 psi, so rarely is it the cause for lack of pressure inside the RV.  Typical campground water systems drop pressure substantially when the spigot is open and flowing, so an actual flow rate might be more like 10-12 gpm, but that is still plenty considering that standard shower heads operate OK at 2 gpm and are usually considered great at 3 gpm. All newer shower heads are limited to 2.5 gpm anyway.
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Rene T

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #18 on: January 24, 2018, 02:24:37 PM »
Understand, but that guideline mostly refers to a primary supply that serves multiple branch (service) lines.   The RV city inlet has less than 1/4" diameter inlet to its check valve, and it then feeds a 1/2" Rv internal main supply before reaching the service branches, so using a large external line is of limited value in this case. Can't hurt, though, and it helps compensate for kinks and the friction of longer hoses (e.g. the common 25 footer).

A common 1/2", 25 ft long potable water hose can deliver as much as 24 gallons/minute (gpm) at 40 psi, so rarely is it the cause for lack of pressure inside the RV.  Typical campground water systems drop pressure substantially when the spigot is open and flowing, so an actual flow rate might be more like 10-12 gpm, but that is still plenty considering that standard shower heads operate OK at 2 gpm and are usually considered great at 3 gpm. All newer shower heads are limited to 2.5 gpm anyway.

 :)) :)) :))
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Patnsuzanne

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #19 on: January 24, 2018, 05:11:06 PM »
One additional thought I havenít seen mentioned is that some campgrounds are now installing pressure/volume reducers on their sites freshwater connections. We had one In a commercial spot in N Carolina, and again at a state park in Florida just over the past few months. I assume they are trying to save on their overall water consumption, and by extension, cut down on their overhead. It sure makes for a pitiful shower though.
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Rene T

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #20 on: January 24, 2018, 05:22:03 PM »
One additional thought I havenít seen mentioned is that some campgrounds are now installing pressure/volume reducers on their sites freshwater connections. We had one In a commercial spot in N Carolina, and again at a state park in Florida just over the past few months. I assume they are trying to save on their overall water consumption, and by extension, cut down on their overhead. It sure makes for a pitiful shower though.

Are they pressure/volume reducers or backflow preventer. I've seen this at a few campgrounds.
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Patnsuzanne

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #21 on: January 24, 2018, 07:51:58 PM »
I have to assume they are flow restricters based on our experience at the St Pk in Fla. We camped in the same spot just a few months apart, the first visit had a standard hose bib while the second trip had the new fitting in place. The difference in our pressure the second visit was substantial. When I took the fitting in question off the hose spigot (a no-no, Iím sure) and took it apart, it had a couple of baffles in it similar to the flow reducer in many shower heads. The fitting also had a set screw thru the treaded portion to make it more difficult to remove once it was installed on the hose bib. We got much better pressure once the offending device was removed, but I did go ahead and put it back on when we left. The first time we saw these was in a small private campground in NC and we both remarked at the low water pressure, but since it was a very small family owned campground, we just figured it had a small water system and that was the way it was.
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Rene T

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #22 on: January 25, 2018, 03:25:48 AM »
I have to assume they are flow restricters based on our experience at the St Pk in Fla. We camped in the same spot just a few months apart, the first visit had a standard hose bib while the second trip had the new fitting in place. The difference in our pressure the second visit was substantial. When I took the fitting in question off the hose spigot (a no-no, Iím sure) and took it apart, it had a couple of baffles in it similar to the flow reducer in many shower heads. The fitting also had a set screw thru the treaded portion to make it more difficult to remove once it was installed on the hose bib. We got much better pressure once the offending device was removed, but I did go ahead and put it back on when we left. The first time we saw these was in a small private campground in NC and we both remarked at the low water pressure, but since it was a very small family owned campground, we just figured it had a small water system and that was the way it was.
I think you may find that it is a backflow preventer and that it's restricted so much that it appears to be lowering the pressure. I may be wrong. The one's I've seen also has the screw through the side to possibly prevent someone from removing it. I've got a couple in my garage as a matter of fact.   ;D :D ;)
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From the Granite State of NH
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Patnsuzanne

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #23 on: January 25, 2018, 06:38:00 AM »
Hmmm.  Weíll be back down at that park in April.  I guess the easiest thing to do would be to just ask the rangers. Iíll let you know what I find out.
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kdbgoat

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #24 on: January 25, 2018, 06:48:31 AM »
If the park has pressure/flow restrictor, put some water in your tank, and use your pump to get the pressure you need.
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Rene T

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #25 on: January 25, 2018, 07:43:35 AM »
Hmmm.  Weíll be back down at that park in April.  I guess the easiest thing to do would be to just ask the rangers. Iíll let you know what I find out.

It's been a couple of years since I looked at them but I seem to think that I tried blowing air through them and air only went one way.
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John From Detroit

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #26 on: January 25, 2018, 08:20:02 AM »
That device is a Vacuum Breaker. you can find them in most any hardware store. I had one on my house spigot (one of them)

And yes, they will SLIGHTLY reduce flow.  I mean any obstrucvtion in the path will do that but the efferct should be minimal, where I am now if you use a regulator you will not notice the effect of a park-side vacuum breaker. If you don't use a regulator you may well end up buying a new hose, or at least new ends, as park perssure has been measured over 120 PSI. 
If I choose to use park water direct (I Do not for other reasons) I have a ZURIN regulator. 3/4 Very nice.

I also have a older watts. also 3/4" (NOTE the 3/4" models believe it or not are CHEASPER than the 1/2) I need to do a rebulid on

On the classic scvale of 10 they asre like Bo Derek aging 10-9-8-7-6-5.. After a decade or so they are darn good flow restrictors. but new. I cvan go from "Static" 50PSI to full shower and the needle is still stuck on 50PSI. Acts like it was glued in place.. till I turn off the park side valve then it drops. (That is how I test em)

Those little In-Line regulators (about a 3/4inch cylinder)  JUNK, good flow restrictors though.

Filters also reduce flow/pressure though mine  not so much (I home made, not all that good as a filter but does what I need).

Finally the reason I do not use park water direct  Two reasons

1: Over chloronation means it tasts like bleach, even after passing through a pint of activated charcoal. Letting it sit, even f afew minutes, in the storage tank allows the excess chlorine to go away.. Reason 2

Last week when I( moved to my "Week out" park I went to refill the storage tank before I left.. Could not. .Park was froze.. So Filled up 2 days later at the other park (Frostproof)  My hose by the way did not freeze.. Was full of AIR not water.

Same water system so .. No problem.
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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #27 on: January 25, 2018, 08:39:06 AM »
The plumbing & public health codes now require backflow preventers (vacuum breakers) on connections to public water supplies, which includes most anything a hose can be connected to.  In most areas, public health laws require that older "community" systems be retrofitted with backflow preventers to keep contaminants from entering the water supply shared with others.   A backflow device could also  restrict flow somewhat, but that's not its purpose in life.

When somebody hooks a hose up to their black tank flusher and their tank "burps" for some reason, we would all like to think that it cannot push contaminated water back into the campground and/or city water supply, right?
« Last Edit: January 25, 2018, 08:42:20 AM by Gary RV_Wizard »
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Patnsuzanne

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Re: Fresh water inlet
« Reply #28 on: February 01, 2018, 06:43:25 PM »
Ok. Mystery (to me) solved. As other, smarter folks have stated, the fitting is question is, indeed, a vacuum breaker. We just got back home after a short visit to the FDR State Park in Georgia and the water hookup to our site had one. Close inspection found ďvacuum breakerĒ printed in very tiny letters right on it. Once again a lesson to look before I leap.
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