Fresh water inlet

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clockdrfla

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Joined
Jan 15, 2012
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206
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Ocala, Florida
My water pressure is quite low inside.  At the connection on the RV there is a cone shaped screen attached to a rubber washer.  I removed this screen and behind this is some sort of valve that has a little tip that can be pushed in and when released returns to original position.  I?m assuming the cone shaped screen is just a filter but not sure what the valve behind it does.  Kindly explain.  Thanks
 
It is a check valve and explained in the post above.
When winterizing, make sure to put a few drops of pink stuff in there via a spoon or eye dropper or if there is residual water there it can freeze and break it.

jack L
 
To be a little more specific, when you are running the water pump and the entire system is pressurized, this check valve stops water from shooting out.

As far as the pressure, how is the pressure at the end of the hose before you connect it to the inlet?
Do you have a built in filter? If you do, you may need to change the filter element/cartridge.
If it's all the faucets, remove the screen filters on each faucet and clean them. They may be plugged up with sediment.
Do you use a water pressure regulator?  If you do, it may need adjusting. If you use one of the cheap one's that's about 3" long, throw it away and get a good one. 
 
And if they're plugged with sediment, I would recommend the messy job of flushing out your water system with the screen out. Water seems to go every where when you do this, so have towels ready. I would also recommend flushing your water heater first. It seems most of the "sediment" comes from there from what I have experienced. If you follow the manufacturers recommendations, and do a good vinegar cleaning, you will be surprised how much stuff comes out of your water heater.
 
Rene T said:
Do you use a water pressure regulator?  If you do, it may need adjusting. If you use one of the cheap one's that's about 3" long, throw it away and get a good one.
Click to expand...

Probably the best advice.  Till he answers the regulator question, it is hard to give any more suggestions.
 
JackL said:
When winterizing, make sure to put a few drops of pink stuff in there via a spoon or eye dropper or if there is residual water there it can freeze and break it.
Click to expand...

You can also just push in the valve after filling the system with anti-freeze. There should be enough pressure to force anti-freeze out (and onto your shoes).
 
Expanding a bit on Rene's reply, do you have the same low pressure problem when using the pump & tank vs city water? If so, the problem is somewhere inside the RV, not at the inlet or pump. The clogged faucet screens is one common cause, but sometimes there is a kinked water line or other physical problem.

Also, "low pressure" is subjective. The RV's pump runs at about 45 psi, and campground water supplies may be anywhere from 30 to as much as 100, but 40-65 is typical.  You may enjoy 60+ psi at home, in which case 40-45 can seem awfully low. Many people complain primarily about the shower head, which is usually flow restricted at about 2 gpm regardless of pressure.  A better quality shower head, e.g.an Oxygenics often delivers much better "pressure", and in many models of showerhead the restriction disc can be removed to help it out.
 
Do not use pump and tank, have always connected to city water.  Removed screen filter, even though it is clear, and reconnected hose.  Pressure is good, best it has ever been.  Doesn?t make any sense.
 
What do you mean it doesn't make any sense. You removed the screen and the pressure increased. That was obviously your problem. You need to go to a hardware store and buy a new one.
 
clockdrfla said:
Do not use pump and tank, have always connected to city water.  Removed screen filter, even though it is clear, and reconnected hose.  Pressure is good, best it has ever been.  Doesn’t make any sense.
Click to expand...

Two more Hints ?

1. Remove the City Water Inlet Screened Washer, and replace it with an "O" ring type washer ?

2. On All the Faucets.. disassemble the faucet Aerators and remove the +/- 1/8th" [flow restrictor disks], but leave the small screens in place when reassembling ?

Doing the above, and using a 5/8ths, or 3/4" supply hose.. you will be getting the optimal flow rate (GPM) your Rig plumbing is capable of.. and still have sediment filtration* from screens in each faucet aerator ?

In addition ? Some faucets have screens (as mentioned earlier) in each Hot and Cold valve assembly. I've removed mine, due to the aerator screens providing the needed filtration ? (Your call on that)

* clean them once a year ?

Joe
 
BIG JOE said:
Two more Hints ?

1. Remove the City Water Inlet Screened Washer, and replace it with an "O" ring type washer.

Doing the above, and using a 5/8ths, or 3/4" supply hose.. you will be getting the optimal flow rate (GPM) your Rig plumbing is capable of.. and still have sediment filtration* from screens in each faucet aerator.
Click to expand...

I don't know why you'd want to use a O Ring. Just get a regular garden hose washer. But I wouldn't run water through that entry point without the screen. It  can be nearly impossible to clean any sediment out of the shower wand if some grit does get into the system. My shower wand doesn't come apart and it does have a couple of holes that are plugged by grit.  IMHO, always use a screen.
Using a 5/8" or 3/4" hose is kinda overkill IMHO.  Your entire water system in the RV is 1/2" so using a hose larger than 1/2" will probably not make any difference once again, IMHO.
 
Clearly, the sediment screen was clogged, causing your problem.  The fact it WAS clogged proves its importance!

You may want to consider an in line filter in the incoming water line somewhere before the camper.  It will remove much finer sediment than a simple screen, as well as other contaminants.
 
Rene T said:
I don't know why you'd want to use a O Ring. Just get a regular garden hose washer. But I wouldn't run water through that entry point without then screen. It  can be nearly impossible to clean any sediment out of the shower wand if some grit does get into the system. My shower wand doesn't come apart and it does have a couple of holes that are plugged by grit.  IMHO, always use a screen.
Using a 5/8" or 3/4" hose is kinda overkill IMHO.  Your entire water system in the RV is 1/2" so using a hose larger than 1/2" will probably not make any difference once again, IMHO.
Click to expand...

When I posted.. "O" ring [type] of washer (?), they are sold in Garden sections as an alternative to the common, flat, rubber hose washers.. but they don't dry out, split, deform, or disintegrate, as those tend to do. With the frequent.. Hooking & unhooking we do.. they (in my experience) Last Indefinitely... with No Pliers required.

His/her own call (as is everything on here) on using, or not using the Inlet screen/washer ?

IJMHO ? A liquid [Supply line] should be ideally be.. of a larger capacity (Dia).. than a [Service line]. Most all Hookup risers/bibs are 3/4". So using a 5/8ths, or 3/4" Hose as a continuance of the hookup riser size, would [help] deliver the optimum Park GPM and PSI available.. to our Rigs.  Less friction/restriction, if you will ? 

My post was Just meant to be "Hints", Guys & Gals.. Not Guidance & Direction. I was just passing on "Hints".    ;) :)
 
BIG JOE said:
When I posted.. "O" ring [type] of washer (?), they are sold in Garden sections as an alternative to the common, flat, rubber hose washers.. but they don't dry out, split, deform, or disintegrate, as those tend to do. With the frequent.. Hooking & unhooking we do.. they (in my experience) Last Indefinitely... with No Pliers required.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the breakdown. It makes some sense.  I'm going to buy one and give it a shot. 
 
IJHMO ? A liquid [Supply line] should be ideally be.. of a larger capacity (Dia).. than a [Service line].
Click to expand...

Understand, but that guideline mostly refers to a primary supply that serves multiple branch (service) lines.  The RV city inlet has less than 1/4" diameter inlet to its check valve, and it then feeds a 1/2" Rv internal main supply before reaching the service branches, so using a large external line is of limited value in this case. Can't hurt, though, and it helps compensate for kinks and the friction of longer hoses (e.g. the common 25 footer).

A common 1/2", 25 ft long potable water hose can deliver as much as 24 gallons/minute (gpm) at 40 psi, so rarely is it the cause for lack of pressure inside the RV.  Typical campground water systems drop pressure substantially when the spigot is open and flowing, so an actual flow rate might be more like 10-12 gpm, but that is still plenty considering that standard shower heads operate OK at 2 gpm and are usually considered great at 3 gpm. All newer shower heads are limited to 2.5 gpm anyway.
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
Understand, but that guideline mostly refers to a primary supply that serves multiple branch (service) lines.  The RV city inlet has less than 1/4" diameter inlet to its check valve, and it then feeds a 1/2" Rv internal main supply before reaching the service branches, so using a large external line is of limited value in this case. Can't hurt, though, and it helps compensate for kinks and the friction of longer hoses (e.g. the common 25 footer).

A common 1/2", 25 ft long potable water hose can deliver as much as 24 gallons/minute (gpm) at 40 psi, so rarely is it the cause for lack of pressure inside the RV.  Typical campground water systems drop pressure substantially when the spigot is open and flowing, so an actual flow rate might be more like 10-12 gpm, but that is still plenty considering that standard shower heads operate OK at 2 gpm and are usually considered great at 3 gpm. All newer shower heads are limited to 2.5 gpm anyway.
Click to expand...

:)) :)) :))
 
One additional thought I haven?t seen mentioned is that some campgrounds are now installing pressure/volume reducers on their sites freshwater connections. We had one In a commercial spot in N Carolina, and again at a state park in Florida just over the past few months. I assume they are trying to save on their overall water consumption, and by extension, cut down on their overhead. It sure makes for a pitiful shower though.
 
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