where to buy 6V batteries in FL

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RedandSilver

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I was doing some battery maintenance adding distilled water and needed to loosen some cables to get the filler covers off.
When I was done adding water I tightened up the nuts and one of the posts broke.

The battery have a sticker say "Shipped Mar 08" so they are almost 10 years old.
I don't (at this time) do any real boondocking so I didn't feel a need to replace the batteries as they still worked.

I'm in Central FL now and wanted to know if anyone has any recommendations on where to buy batteries.
I don't want to drive my coach somewhere to get batteries exchanged and I only have motorcycles with me.
I could probably find someone to take me somewhere to get new ones.

Am I right to assume that it would be best to take the old batteries with me when I buy new ones, so they could dispose
of them and there be no core charge?

I'm thinking at this time the cheapest would be regular wet cell batteries - probably around $100 each.

Is Costco or Sam's Club OK or should I look elsewhere.  I have to believe Camping World etc would be higher priced.
Is Amazon (or any online re-seller) out because of the high cost of shipping that much weight?
Are there battery stores - like Batteries Plus that sell just batteries that would be better?

I have found that many things in FL are higher priced compared to back home.
IF I couldn't find them for less than $100 COULD I remove 2 batteries from the setup (by unhooking the cables) and just use
one set of 6 volts to get me by until I get home?

And thoughts or ideas?
 
 
I buy my batteries at Walmart. If there is a problem there are Walmarts everywhere for getting warranty work done. And Walmart is really good about their warranty.
 
The problem with Walmart is that they don't sell a true deep cycle battery. Theirs are marine type batteries. Walmart isn't a good enough reason to buy a lesser battery for close to the same price. I haven't used Costco or Sam's, but a lot of folks have, and I haven't read anything badmouthing them.
 
I buy all of my batteries at Rural King. They are all over FL and have great prices. Also, you will need to take your batteries with you in FL as they charge a core charge here.
 
Most Walmarts sell Golf Cart 6 volt batteries.  You might have to special order them.
Also Sams Club, Cosco and Batteries and Bulbs sell 6 volt batteries.
Florida is full of golf cart companies and these guys sell 6 volt batteries and sometimes for less.
 
First if you do not go hog wild you can drive a screw into the post and make a good connetion. I keep the screw short (lag bolt) but you have at least 1/2 inch to play with.

If it is flooded wet cell usihng a non-metallic meauring stik measure down to the top of the polates and SUBTRACT 1/4 inch for safety

Now to buy. Sams. Costco. Golf-Cars-R-US (Generic name).
 
I bought 4 of the 6 volt GC-2 Energizer batts from Sam's in Pueblo 4 years ago and they are still going strong. Take your old batts with you. If you don't then you'll have to make another trip to dispose of them once you install your new ones.
 
Yep, take your old ones with you. They will charge you a core charge for each battery if you don't. It's typically about $12 each around here the last time I bought a battery.
 
If you are going to get wet cell marine/RV batteries, Walmart is as good as any. They will  "trolling motor batteries" (same as marine/RV deep cycle) if not ones labeled for RV use. And most have 6v golf car batteries as well (in Florida, anyway).

If you want a better grade of deep cycle, aka "true" deep cycle, be prepared to pay a lot more if a 12v type. However, 6v golf car batteries are much cheaper, simply because they are produced in high volume by every major battery manufacturer (competition is a wonderful thing!).  If you now have 12v, re-wiring for 6v is easy enough and not expensive.

***Ooops! I just saw "6v" in the topic title, so ignore my 12v comments!

Since you don't boondock much, the difference between true deep cycle and marine/RV is basically longevity. Figure 3 years for those, vs 7+ for true deep cycles or any kind of AGM battery.  Cost per year comes out pretty much the same in most cases.

Sam's Club & Costco are usually pretty good places to buy batteries. Wet cell batteries are commodities and you should buy based on specs and price. Brand name is not important.
 
Thanks for the tips.

The ones that I have seen online that say they are Marine/RV had CCA's listed - which to me is not a true deep cycle.
Cold Cranking Amps leads me to believe they are for starting an engine.

So far this is the best deal I have found - but I'm not done looking yet.

https://www.ruralking.com/exide-golf-cart-battery-6volt-gc115g.html
 
The ones that I have seen online that say they are Marine/RV had CCA's listed - which to me is not a true deep cycle.
Click to expand...

Lifeline, Trojan and Rolls all include CCA in their specs and they are the acknowledged industry leaders in deep cycles.

I will agree that advertising that focuses on CCA/MCA instead of RC and AH is a clue that you ought to look carefully at the rest of the specs. Furthermore, Marine/RV batteries are by definition a combination of cranking and deep cycling performance, i.e. a hybrid design. Like all compromise designs, they are not the best at anything but can do a couple of things adequately.
 
Central FL is a big area. Google golf cart batteries and pick a location close to you. If you can't pick them up on ur bike, maybe someone can take you or have them delivered.
 
In many years of servicing electric pallet jacks, floor scrubbers, scissor lifts and electric golf carts, I have found it is hard to beat Trojan batteries.  They are not the cheapest, but are truly deep cycle and are USA made.  They also stand behind their warranty.  The worst batteries I have ever dealt with are from the discount places like auto zone and wal mart.
 
I've had good luck with "Batteries + Bulbs", they can be found all over the U.S.
 
Just thought I would update you all.

I did go to Rural King and got 4 new batteries.
I usually try to buy stuff made in the USA but sometimes it's not possible or in this case I didn't have the funds to buy
the more expensive  brands.  Since I don't plan on doing a lot of boondocking I didn't feel I needed the best batteries made.
Again it's unusual for me to buy the cheapest brand out (that I could find and seemed to be the same spec's as what I had) but sometimes
it happens and this was one of those times.  Time will tell if they will last almost ten years like the last set did, and I don't believe
the PO used a high end brand when he replaced them 10 years ago.  I think the old set was Decker Brand Batteries.

I guess you get what you pay for as it's hard to say if these are/were labeled correctly.  They say made in Korea and are dated Jan 18.
So I guess it's possible they shipped them on the first or second of January and they got to FL before the end of the month - IDK.
Anyway three of the four read 6.22V and one read 6.25.  I took the filler tops off and they were all a little low.  So right, wrong, good or bad
I added distilled water to fill them up. 

Cleaned out the battery tray with baking soda and water and then with just water.  Filed all the cable connections to clean them up even
using a round file in the holes.  Used Di-electric grease on all connections and greased the tray rails.

Turned on the power and they are charging as I type this.

I did learn that no 12v equipment works with the batteries removed, even when trying the INVERT setting.  I'm not sure if totally
dead batteries would let things work because of the connections being made through dead batteries or not.

There is a little room in the tray because the new batteries are not swelled like the old ones were.  Maybe it was made that way
because I have heard it's somewhat normal for wet cell batteries to swell some.

Just looked and the batteries are showing full charge now. 

It will be interesting to see if the new batteries last longer when driving the MH and inverting to run the fridge.  In the past after 4-5 hours
the gauge would be on the third light which I believe is a ? mark (there are only 3 lights - full, half and one quarter).  I would think with good
batteries and the ALT charging the batteries when driving that they should last longer.  But maybe I'm wrong - time will tell. 

Thanks for all the help and tips.  Rural King did have a good price and even a 12% rebate.  Good thing they don't expire as there are no RK's
in MI that I know of, so if the rebate doesn't get to me before I head back I will have to save it for next years visit or go a State or 2 away
and use it this coming Summer.
 
RedandSilver said:
Just thought I would update you all.

I did go to Rural King and got 4 new batteries.
I usually try to buy stuff made in the USA but sometimes it's not possible or in this case I didn't have the funds to buy
the more expensive  brands.  Since I don't plan on doing a lot of boondocking I didn't feel I needed the best batteries made.
Again it's unusual for me to buy the cheapest brand out (that I could find and seemed to be the same spec's as what I had) but sometimes
it happens and this was one of those times.  Time will tell if they will last almost ten years like the last set did, and I don't believe
the PO used a high end brand when he replaced them 10 years ago.  I think the old set was Decker Brand Batteries.

I guess you get what you pay for as it's hard to say if these are/were labeled correctly.  They say made in Korea and are dated Jan 18.
So I guess it's possible they shipped them on the first or second of January and they got to FL before the end of the month - IDK.
Anyway three of the four read 6.22V and one read 6.25.  I took the filler tops off and they were all a little low.  So right, wrong, good or bad
I added distilled water to fill them up. 

Cleaned out the battery tray with baking soda and water and then with just water.  Filed all the cable connections to clean them up even
using a round file in the holes.  Used Di-electric grease on all connections and greased the tray rails.

Turned on the power and they are charging as I type this.

I did learn that no 12v equipment works with the batteries removed, even when trying the INVERT setting.  I'm not sure if totally
dead batteries would let things work because of the connections being made through dead batteries or not.

There is a little room in the tray because the new batteries are not swelled like the old ones were.  Maybe it was made that way
because I have heard it's somewhat normal for wet cell batteries to swell some.

Just looked and the batteries are showing full charge now. 

It will be interesting to see if the new batteries last longer when driving the MH and inverting to run the fridge.  In the past after 4-5 hours
the gauge would be on the third light which I believe is a ? mark (there are only 3 lights - full, half and one quarter).  I would think with good
batteries and the ALT charging the batteries when driving that they should last longer.  But maybe I'm wrong - time will tell. 

Thanks for all the help and tips.  Rural King did have a good price and even a 12% rebate.  Good thing they don't expire as there are no RK's
in MI that I know of, so if the rebate doesn't get to me before I head back I will have to save it for next years visit or go a State or 2 away
and use it this coming Summer.
Click to expand...

Good choice. I bought a set (8) of 6 volts from Rural King 6 years ago for my golf cart and they are working great today as they did 6 years ago. Hope you have as good a luck with them as I have.
 
The OP also needs to test his alternator charging of the coach batteries after they are charged up. Start up the engine and check the CHASSIS battery voltage and then check the COACH battery volts. They should be the same or very close, within a tenth or so. If the COACH batteries still show less than 13 volts or way less than the CHASSIS battery, it is quite possible the relay used to connect the two systems together has failed. The relay may function, but the contacts may be so burned as to no pass current.

Charles
 
Anyway three of the four read 6.22V and one read 6.25.  I took the filler tops off and they were all a little low.  So right, wrong, good or bad
I added distilled water to fill them up. 
Click to expand...

"Low" is relative, but as long as you didn't overfill, no harm.  As long as the top of the plates are covered but the water doesn't touch the bottom of the case (as viewed thru the filler tube), it's fine.

I did learn that no 12v equipment works with the batteries removed, even when trying the INVERT setting.  I'm not sure if totally
dead batteries would let things work because of the connections being made through dead batteries or not.
Click to expand...

Apparently your wiring harness passes all power through the battery terminal connections. That's not common, but not unheard of either. When connected to shore power, the converter portion of the converter/charger supplies 12v power. Usually it is wired direct to the 12v power bus, but yours apparently is wired exclusively to the battery terminals. In any case, the batteries are in parallel with the converter, so you still get 12v from the converter when the batteries are dead.

The Invert setting means it has to draw power FROM the batteries, so no inverter output if no batteries, Besides, the inverter produces 120v power to selected circuits, so it cannot help with 12v power.

 
Thanks for the info.
I don't plan on ever removing the batteries unless I'm exchanging them like I did recently.
Hopefully I won't need to do that again for a long time.

But I agree that even with dead batteries (which I doubt will happen) hooked up, that I should have 12V power with shore power.
Probably never going to find out for sure as even my 10 year old batteries had power and the ONLY reason
I replaced them NOW was one post broke and I didn't want to take a chance of driving it and it sparking and starting a fire.


As far as filling them I added D water up to the bottom of the vertical slot which I have done on my other batteries and never had a problem.
That way there is some breathing room - so to speak.  Adding 2 oz to each means they will have to evaporate 2 ozs to return to where they
started out, at which I hope doesn't happen to quickly.  Time will tell.
 
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