Well, I'm confused. - Shore power/chassis power, etc.

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LarsMac

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We have been parked for a couple of months, now and plugged into shore power at the in-laws.
When I went out to start the engine the other day, it failed to turn over. Apparently the battery had drained.
I jumped the battery to get it started and when running, I have good power from the alternator, and the battery charges. I had thought that the chassis battery would be receiving a charge from the house system while we were parked. Apparently, not.

Earlier, we had the Dancer on shore power for nearly 3 months, and never had the problem of the chassis battery draining down.
This time, in a matter of weeks, we lost enough juice that it failed to turn the engine.
Was I just lucky, last time because it was during warm weather?



 
SeilerBird said:
Sounds to me like you chassis battery is dead. How old is it?

Well, it takes a charge, and passes load tests. But it had a 5/14 stamp on it, so 3 1/2 years old with a questionable history.
I will probably go ahead and replace it shortly.

I did think that it should be getting a charge off the house circuit, while on shore power. I guess another lesson learned.
 
My chassis batteries do not charge off of shore power.
I just installed a trickle start to keep chassis batteries up. I checked this morning it was on float both banks at 13.2 volts
3 1/2 yrs old should not need replacing
 
https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20108-Battery-Doctor-Batteries/dp/B002OWFLC4 


Put one of those in and your problem is solved.

They sell them at Walmart too.
 
My chassis (engine) battery does not charge from shore power. Only the house batteries. I use a battery minder for the chassis battery. I also have a solar panel that provides about 1.3 amps to the battery, but I disconnected it in favor of the battery tender.

Most likely your chassis battery does not charge from shore power either. The battery minder is awesome in my opinion.
This is the one I use: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q3CM2QY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Install a Trik-L-Start  and forget about disconnect switches and separate chargers that you have to remember.
 
Your particular coach does NOT charge the chassis battery from shore power. Some do; some do not.

Chas A advice about adding a Trik-L-Charge is excellent.  Or add it's big brother, the Amp-L-Start.  Some other devices that would achieve the same thing is a Xantrex Echo Charge or Magnum Smart Battery Combiner, but the basic models do fine.
http://www.lslproducts.net/
 
Thanks for the replies.

I will look into a battery booster or something of that nature.

As for replacing the battery, I agree, normally a 3.5 year old battery should be fine for a couple more years. But, it is not a brand I am familiar with, and I have no information on the history of this battery except for the last year and a half. It may have been drained and left in the cold for those two years before I acquired the RV.

It may be fine, and I will pull it and take down to get a full test on it, to see how it looks.
I may go ahead and replace it just to have a known starting quantity/quality and a fresh start on a warranty. Why take a chance with the unknown.


 
May I suggest my Library article on battery choices? It's been published in a couple RV magazines, but it's free from the RVForum Library.  See http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/Choosing_right_battery.pdf
 
While it is always good to have a battery disconnect switch on both engine and house batteries, I would also do as the gentleman who suggested the Trik L Start. There is also another device called the BIRD. Both of these devices allow your house batteries to charge from the generator, shore power, or engine alternator.  You can also install a switch which allows you to connect the engine and house batteries when either one is too low to crank the generator or engine.
 

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