ReadyBrake cable failure

Last year I switched from a Demco towbar to a new Ready Brute Elite. This unit works very good, and overall I am happy with my decision to purchase. That being said I am not too happy with the end result of a "mild panic" stop that was needed a couple of days ago. Although there was no damage, no accident and I really didn't feel anything unusual. But once we got into our site, and started to unhook the Jeep I found that the black "Sling Cable" had failed. This is the cable that pulls the Jeep's brake pedal to initiate braking for the toad. Ready Brute -or- NAS supplied this cable with one end already finished with the thimble swagged in place. It is up to the buyer to make final length adjustment and to swag the thimble into the opposite end, and to install a couple of cable clamps to backup the swagging. The end that failed for me was the supplied end. I am waiting to hear back from the company about this hiccup, and in the meantime I am going to build my own cable sans the swags.
Please don't think I'm calling out Ready Brute as that is not my intent, but I feel I should say/show what has happened here so that if anyone has this setup they may want to backup the swags with clamps.
And please don't suggest that I installed the cable wrong - that is just not the case, I am very anal about safety.

Corky

Clearly, that is the FACTORY end failure!!  It's scary! 
Let us know how and how quickly Ready Brute responds!

Definitely not your issue Corky. I have been using one for about 7 years now and haven't seen that issue. The crimp ends on the cable clearly were not crimped enough.  Let us know their response. I was thinking about replacing my cable as it has about 30,000 miles of use on it. 

SargeW said:

Definitely not your issue Corky. I have been using one for about 7 years now and haven't seen that issue. The crimp ends on the cable clearly were not crimped enough.  Let us know their response. I was thinking about replacing my cable as it has about 30,000 miles of use on it.

Click to expand...

Sarge, I wouldn't think replacement would be necessary if you're not showing any broken strands in the cable. But it may be hard to see if your cable is coated, like mine is. I'm debating on whether or not my new cable will be coated or not. I may go uncoated knowing it will need to be replaced earlier, but I'll have peace of mind having the ability to visually inspect the cable for any broken strands.

Also thanks for recommending this setup to me over a year ago, it's a easy and quality unit.

Corky

I heard back from ReadyBrute/NAS first thing this morning and without question another cable was sent out.

The company is top notch in my opinion, although still skeptical of the way the cable is assembled. If there is room I will back up the swags with clamps, even if it's just for my peace of mind.

Corky

I do not use crimp on "Clamps" for the very simple reason I have not a proper crimper

Hardware stores sell a "Bolt on" Clamp"  Google found an image of one for me.

Here it is if you click

I usually double up

John From Detroit said:

I do not use crimp on "Clamps" for the very simple reason I have not a proper crimper

Hardware stores sell a "Bolt on" Clamp"  Google found an image of one for me.

Here it is if you click

I usually double up

Click to expand...

Thanks John, those are exactly what I meant when "clamps" are referred to, the crimp type I know as swags. Just a difference in terminology.
For this brake cable I'll use 3 clamps for each end, which should hold real good.

Corky

Three clips shouldn't be needed on a cable that size, but you can use three if it gives you that warm fuzzy feeling. Certainly doesn't add much more work. During my years of running around industrial settings, I have seen clips installed with every imaginable way, 90% incorrect. I included a link to give folks what the correct installation is supposed to be.

http://www.fdlake.com/wrclips.html

I've built a lot of structures with cranes with many slings and cables over the years.  An old rigger told me years ago when using cable clamps "a dead end has no nuts", meaning the ubolt side of the clamp goes around the short tail (dead end) of the cable.  That phrase has been stuck in my head every time I have to install them.

kdbgoat said:

Three clips shouldn't be needed on a cable that size, but you can use three if it gives you that warm fuzzy feeling. Certainly doesn't add much more work. During my years of running around industrial settings, I have seen clips installed with every imaginable way, 90% incorrect. I included a link to give folks what the correct installation is supposed to be.

http://www.fdlake.com/wrclips.html

Click to expand...

Thanks for the link, there is a lot of info there which some of it I was unaware of.
I have always staggered the clamps/clips when making up a cable, but was unaware of how the clamp should be positioned at the dead end.

ELeland said:

I've built a lot of structures with cranes with many slings and cables over the years.  An old rigger told me years ago when using cable clamps "a dead end has no nuts", meaning the ubolt side of the clamp goes around the short tail (dead end) of the cable.  That phrase has been stuck in my head every time I have to install them.

Click to expand...

Had to laugh when first read the quote - but it works and will now be with me forever - Thanks

Corky

I was taught "never saddle a dead horse".

Like Goat I agree 3 clamps is overkill. but like you I also believer in overkill so......

Corky-

I spent some time researching the ReadyBrake, because I think I'm going to get one to replace my Even Brake "box" system when I set up my new car for towing.  In my research, I came across a guy on another forum who had the same problem, multiple times.  The company always sent him out new cables promptly, but he kept having the same problem.  If I recall correctly, the eventual solution was he made up his own cable where the coating was stripped off in the area where the clamp was placed.  That solved the problem, which seemed to be caused by clamping over the coating.

Sarge-  I wish I would have taken a look at your Ready Brake setup when you visited user in 2016.  Unfortunately, it wasn't even on my radar at the time.  I'm pleased to see that you're a satisfied user.  I value your opinion.

jagnweiner said:

Sarge-  I wish I would have taken a look at your Ready Brake setup when you visited user in 2016.  Unfortunately, it wasn't even on my radar at the time.  I'm pleased to see that you're a satisfied user.  I value your opinion.

Click to expand...

Thanks Scott. I have recommended the Ready Brute many times through the years. It fits in nicely with my general attitude of "KISS".  I don't think my lanyard was ever clamped over the plastic coating on the cable. My cable is even a bit rusted from years of weathering, but still holding firmly. I will replace it just out of an abundance of caution.

jagnweiner said:

Corky-

I spent some time researching the ReadyBrake, because I think I'm going to get one to replace my Even Brake "box" system when I set up my new car for towing.  In my research, I came across a guy on another forum who had the same problem, multiple times.  The company always sent him out new cables promptly, but he kept having the same problem.  If I recall correctly, the eventual solution was he made up his own cable where the coating was stripped off in the area where the clamp was placed.  That solved the problem, which seemed to be caused by clamping over the coating.

Sarge-  I wish I would have taken a look at your Ready Brake setup when you visited user in 2016.  Unfortunately, it wasn't even on my radar at the time.  I'm pleased to see that you're a satisfied user.  I value your opinion.

Click to expand...

Scott if you look at the picture you can see that the factory end had the plastic removed where the swags were installed. The real problem with the factory end is that there isn't enough cable behind the swags to install clamps in conjunction with the factory swags. Once I get home I can fix the old cable, I just don't have the tools with me now. And I'll use the new cable to get home on.

Corky

Back when I first installed our ReadyBrute Elite/ReadyBrake tow bar system, I made up a second cable using some left over stainless 1/8" aircraft cable from another project as a "just in case" back up. That was in 2008, and over 50,000 towing miles later I'm still using the original cable. I saturate it with motorcycle chain lube to prevent rust a couple of times a year. My cable does not have the plastic coating, that change came along a few years later.

I have thought about making my own cable, I just haven't searched for stainless cable yet. I would only need a few feet.

I found the SS cable I used at a local True Value hardware store that sold it by the foot. Too long ago to have any idea what I paid per foot though...

Corky said:

Scott if you look at the picture you can see that the factory end had the plastic removed where the swags were installed. The real problem with the factory end is that there isn't enough cable behind the swags to install clamps in conjunction with the factory swags. Once I get home I can fix the old cable, I just don't have the tools with me now. And I'll use the new cable to get home on.

Corky

Click to expand...

Good point.  I wasn't even paying attention to the picture.  At any rate, there has definitely been a history of problems with the factory cable in recent years.  The manufacturer has been more than willing to step up to resolve, with varying degrees of success.  Regardless, everyone seems pretty happy with their ReadyBrake/Brute.

On a related note, question for you owners.  How difficult did you find the install on your toad?

When ReadyBrute informed me that a replacement cable was mailed they also sent a zero balance invoice, I guess for tracking purposes. The amount for the new cable was $20.00 plus $10.00 shipping. I just spent $10.00 for 3 clamps and 1 thimble. I am quite sure that one could build a cable for less than the factory.

As far as installing the system I spent more time planing where to route the cables than the installation took.
I'll post pictures of how I handled the cables for my Jeep in a little bit.
Overall the installation was quite easy.

Corky