Flex Armor

[JerryGarner]

Just curious if anyone reading this might have had this process completed on their unit. I called and spoke to these folks and found out that it is approximately a cost of  $160.00 per linear foot. My Winnie would be over 6 grand plus tax. That is the downside the upside is a fully transferable lifetime guarantee on the unit it's installed on. Are there any personal experiences someone could bring to light. The price is high, but lifetime guarantee is a long time. Here is the website link as well.

http://rvroof.com/

[blw2]

I had mine done at the Green Cove Springs location...not because of membrane failure but I had an ill fitting corner where the nose skin on the nose cone of my class c was cut short at the factory and didn't have enough sealing surface under the corner trim.... AND there was a bad fitting corner of the roof membrane there too.  I needed a way to seal up the corner.  I live close to them and it seemed like the best option I could find.... so my roof and front corners are done.

They said they would never do it again.  they are set up to do roofs, not the vertical corners.  I also had them go over the shotty factory job at the cab over clearance lights.  The sealed it in, then stuck down some LED lights.....so there's no likely leak path at those lights now.... no penetration except for the wire which is sealed in through the roof coating.

I also had them replace my skylight dome with a  new one (I provided) & spray over that dome.  Blocks the light but no more worries about the sun damage.  The old one was already near failure from the sun and my shower was yellowing.  And no more worries there about hail or tree damage there either. 

It turned out well I think though.
When I had mine done, I think the rate per foot was a bit less than that...still it was expensive.  From what i found at the time it was about the same $ as a standard re-roof job getting a dealer to do it.

I feel good about never having to worry much about the roof seams again.  No caulking up there....  DW says the house is quieter on the road & I feel like it adds some R value to the roof.  All in all I'm happy.
Sad that I had to do it on a relatively new RV, but that wasn't their fault.

One thing I'll add.... it's not completely maintenance free.  The elastomer coating is painted over as a UV covering...so eventually I'll be repainting my roof....

PM me if you are going to do it.  I have a coupon I can share.  Gives you some small amount off ($50 maybe, can't remember???) and I get some even smaller kick back as a referral.

[Memtb]

  blw2,   Had our 5er done last summer, in Mesa, Az. They did a great job, so far - so good! Good Luck with the coupons.....I didn’t get an6 takers!

[blw2]

  blw2,   Had our 5er done last summer, in Mesa, Az. They did a great job, so far - so good! Good Luck with the coupons.....I didn’t get an6 takers!

Ha ha, yeah, I've mentioned to a few folks but not so many folks are really in the market for this type of thing....although I think they stay busy at rvroof.com  Seemed like a very steady workload while I was dealing with them...

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Jerry.
It's hard to imagine an '05 Journey needing a complete roof coating. It's has a fiberglass skin, so the only thing that can leak is joints and places where the many things stick through the roof. I think all you need is a competent guy with a caulking gun. A couple tubes of caulk and 2-4 hours of labor ought to do it.

Sadly, few RV dealers have that guy in their employ.  It's usually best done DIY, because the owner cares about the result, but some people don't have the eye for potential leak spots, and some of us don't clamber around on roofs anymore if it can be avoided.

Some will declaim "use Eternabond tape!", but it's not a panacea either. Somebody still has to climb up top, clean up loose or dirty caulked seams, and then apply a quality covering.

[kdbgoat]

The biggest advantage of Eternabond is that's is pretty much one and done. One still has to go on the roof and check places that can't be done with Eternabond, such as clearance lights, etc. Eternabond is also not the prettiest thing to look at if it's put in areas that can be seen from the ground.

[kjansen]

Minnesota RV Roofing has a product the you and roll on with a long nap paint roller.  I've done both my houseboat and 5er with it  works well.  The cost was somewhere around $500.  Give them the size of you rig and they figure how much you.  You do have to coat it several times until you've painted it all on and built up a thicker layer.  Their phone number is 320-763-7100.

[JerryGarner]

I had mine done at the Green Cove Springs location...not because of membrane failure but I had an ill fitting corner where the nose skin on the nose cone of my class c was cut short at the factory and didn't have enough sealing surface under the corner trim.... AND there was a bad fitting corner of the roof membrane there too.  I needed a way to seal up the corner.  I live close to them and it seemed like the best option I could find.... so my roof and front corners are done.

They said they would never do it again.  they are set up to do roofs, not the vertical corners.  I also had them go over the shotty factory job at the cab over clearance lights.  The sealed it in, then stuck down some LED lights.....so there's no likely leak path at those lights now.... no penetration except for the wire which is sealed in through the roof coating.


I also had them replace my skylight dome with a  new one (I provided) & spray over that dome.  Blocks the light but no more worries about the sun damage.  The old one was already near failure from the sun and my shower was yellowing.  And no more worries there about hail or tree damage there either. 

It turned out well I think though.
When I had mine done, I think the rate per foot was a bit less than that...still it was expensive.  From what i found at the time it was about the same $ as a standard re-roof job getting a dealer to do it.

I feel good about never having to worry much about the roof seams again.  No caulking up there....  DW says the house is quieter on the road & I feel like it adds some R value to the roof.  All in all I'm happy.
Sad that I had to do it on a relatively new RV, but that wasn't their fault.

One thing I'll add.... it's not completely maintenance free.  The elastomer coating is painted over as a UV covering...so eventually I'll be repainting my roof....

PM me if you are going to do it.  I have a coupon I can share.  Gives you some small amount off ($50 maybe, can't remember???) and I get some even smaller kick back as a referral.

I may take you up on that a little is a lot in the grand scheme of things, I am probably going to Dependable RV in Madison, MS its close to my home about 100 miles or so. I was told to call for an appointment at least a month in advance because they stay booked up. I travel for work and I'm currently in Virginia so I hope I can swing it.

[JerryGarner]

Jerry.
It's hard to imagine an '05 Journey needing a complete roof coating. It's has a fiberglass skin, so the only thing that can leak is joints and places where the many things stick through the roof. I think all you need is a competent guy with a caulking gun. A couple tubes of caulk and 2-4 hours of labor ought to do it.

Sadly, few RV dealers have that guy in their employ.  It's usually best done DIY, because the owner cares about the result, but some people don't have the eye for potential leak spots, and some of us don't clamber around on roofs anymore if it can be avoided.



Some will declaim "use Eternabond tape!", but it's not a panacea either. Somebody still has to climb up top, clean up loose or dirty caulked seams, and then apply a quality covering.

I have found a few places where the previous owner was careless with maintenance, the roof is in fairly good condition though. The reason I would do it is just to improve the roof so as not to have to spend so much time with caulking and possible leaks. Its very difficult living in an RV 9-10 months out of a year and I work large construction projects so I'm many times in rural areas with limited access to RV help and the things I can do are limited because there are only so many hours in a day and I don't have much time off.

[JerryGarner]

Minnesota RV Roofing has a product the you and roll on with a long nap paint roller.  I've done both my houseboat and 5er with it  works well.  The cost was somewhere around $500.  Give them the size of you rig and they figure how much you.  You do have to coat it several times until you've painted it all on and built up a thicker layer.  Their phone number is 320-763-7100.

I was in your neck of the woods all last year, the company I worked for built all those lovely solar fields around Greater Minneapolis. I had a total of 16 sites I visited off and on for about a year. I was living in Chanhassen. I must say when the spring arrives I'll miss Minnesota this year its a beautiful state and I made a great number of friends.

[JerryGarner]

The biggest advantage of Eternabond is that's is pretty much one and done. One still has to go on the roof and check places that can't be done with Eternabond, such as clearance lights, etc. Eternabond is also not the prettiest thing to look at if it's put in areas that can be seen from the ground.

I have two rolls of Eternabond I purchased for emergency measures 4"x50'. At the moment I have a leak on the driver side, side window its coming through from up top somewhere as best as I can tell its pretty much confining itself to the corner of the Chassis its barely getting the carpet wet. Its coming out of the headliner inside the cabinet overhead. I have been up top and can't seem to locate any gaps or cracks. I'll just keep looking.

[blw2]

I agree with Gary about eternabond.  In researching solutions for my leak I found plenty of photos and video online of failed installations.  It is just an adhesive bond after all....surfaces must be cleaned and prepped, but also the install has to be done without stretching the tape, and getting a neat straight job seems to be a challenge for some.  I used some in my repair, after repairing the rot I sealed up the corner best as I could using some eternabond double stick and also some web seal under the corner trim that didn't have enough sealing surface area.  My thought was to dry in the corner and give it as much structural integrity as possible before the spray on roof.  That material they apply seems to be extremely tough and seems to have a really good bond
but
if it's just a small area and there are only a few seams, that self leveling caulk really is easy to clean and re-apply

Good luck Jerry finding that leak!

[kjansen]

[/quote]

I was in your neck of the woods all last year, the company I worked for built all those lovely solar fields around Greater Minneapolis. I had a total of 16 sites I visited off and on for about a year. I was living in Chanhassen. I must say when the spring arrives I'll miss Minnesota this year its a beautiful state and I made a great number of friends.

Thanks for all your work.  I really like to see all those solar fields going in.  Two new ones are going in near Alexandria.  I am thinking about putting one in at the house.

[JerryGarner]

Thanks for all your work.  I really like to see all those solar fields going in.  Two new ones are going in near Alexandria.  I am thinking about putting one in at the house.

I also worked at Sauk Centre on the Black Oak Wind site. We actually rented a house for a 4 day weekend at Arrowhead, I know you know where that is. Great times and memories.

[JerryGarner]

I agree with Gary about eternabond.  In researching solutions for my leak I found plenty of photos and video online of failed installations.  It is just an adhesive bond after all....surfaces must be cleaned and prepped, but also the install has to be done without stretching the tape, and getting a neat straight job seems to be a challenge for some.  I used some in my repair, after repairing the rot I sealed up the corner best as I could using some eternabond double stick and also some web seal under the corner trim that didn't have enough sealing surface area.  My thought was to dry in the corner and give it as much structural integrity as possible before the spray on roof.  That material they apply seems to be extremely tough and seems to have a really good bond
but
if it's just a small area and there are only a few seams, that self leveling caulk really is easy to clean and re-apply

Good luck Jerry finding that leak!

I know, right? LUCK being the operative word and GOOD the hope.

[kdbgoat]

Put plastic in your doorway, add one of these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-5-HP-800-CFM-Air-Mover-for-Water-Damage-Restoration-Carpet-Dryer-Floor-Blower-Fan-Home-and-Plumbing-Use-in-Blue-BA-VP-20-BL/303793378

and a couple of smoke bombs for testing ductwork.