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Author Topic: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?  (Read 1008 times)

a1aweb

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98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« on: February 12, 2018, 06:26:22 PM »
Just got this 98 Bounder 36S F-53.
There is a NAPA 1515 Gold oil filter that is leaking and I'm not sure if
this is the wrong oil filter or if it was not put in correctly.
What is the correct oil filter to use?
It is a Ford Engine but I am not sure what kind-does anyone know?

I would also like to know what type of tranny it is?
It has 20 bolts, a deep pan and says Metric on it.

Thanks, Ann

Lou Schneider

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2018, 07:43:55 PM »
1998 was when Ford switched from the 460 V-8 engine to the Triton V-10.  Your chassis is either a 1997 with the 460 or a 1999 with the V-10, there was no 1998 model year F-53 chassis.  It's not unusual for there to be a discrepancy between the model year of the motorhome and the chassis underneath it, so your Bounder could indeed be a 1998 model with either chassis.

The 460 was in the first generation chassis, with 16 inch wheels.  The V-10 was in the second generation chassis with a wider track and larger wheels.  Or you could count the number of spark plug wires to see which engine you have. ;)

The transmission is a 4R100.

Here's a link to the 1999 Ford F-53 Owners Guide and Maintenance Schedule if you have the V-10:

https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/how-tos/owner-manuals-search-results.html?year=1999&make=Ford&model=F-53%20Motorhome%20Chassis&currentVehicle=true

Or the 1997 Owners Manual if you have the 460 engine:

https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/how-tos/owner-manuals-search-results.html?year=1997&make=Ford&model=F-53%20Motorhome%20Chassis&currentVehicle=true

If you have the 460 engine, the Napa Gold 1515 is the correct filter.  It should be tightened 3/4 turn beyond where the gasket makes contact with the engine.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2018, 08:02:53 PM by Lou Schneider »

a1aweb

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2018, 07:22:34 AM »
According to the Sticker on the drivers side door it was Manufactured
8/97 - does that help to determine the engine type?

So if it does have the correct oil filter and let's assume it was scewed in correctly
what else could cause it to leak there?

Thanks, Ann
« Last Edit: February 13, 2018, 07:25:43 AM by a1aweb »

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2018, 09:31:17 AM »
Quote
The transmission is a 4R100.

IF the engine is the 460 V8, I think the tranny will be an E4OD rather than the 4R100, which was developed to work with the V10.

Usually there is an engine emblem near the front of the coach, both right and left side,  that shows either V10 or V8.   If in doubt, get the vehicle VIN and decode it to be sure. The engine type is noted in the 8th digit of the Vin.  This site will help:
https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Ford/F-53
Gary
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Summers: Black Mountain, NC
Home: Ocala National Forest, FL

a1aweb

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #4 on: February 13, 2018, 11:54:40 AM »
Thanks for the Vin Check link.
It is a 7.5L V8, no problems shown

NY_Dutch

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2018, 12:19:35 PM »
The leak could be from crud left on the filter seat at the last change, or it could be a split gasket due to over tightening the new filter. Assuming it isn't just from inadequate tightening of the new filter...
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox base plate

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2018, 01:48:45 PM »
7.5L engine is the 460 cubic inch V8, so you have the right filter number. Leakage is probably for one of the reasons NY Dutch cited.
Gary
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a1aweb

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #7 on: February 13, 2018, 02:13:33 PM »
So now the tranny is a E4OD?
and there is no fluid on the tranny dip stick just gunk on the end.
Since I don't plan on driving it more than once a month to go to a dump station some people say just keep it full on the tranny fluid- don't get it flushed an filled as more leaks will appear...
while others says drop the pan and see if it needs a rebuild which runs $2000 to $4000.
I am already guessing it needs a seal where the engine and transmission go together, at least.
If I take pictures underneath and post them on here would that help?

The oil dip stick is not milky and oil looks good so hopefully
no coolant has gotten into it.

Starts and runs ok - has not be driven since it got here as I am waiting for an order of Merc V tranny fluid from walmart. I plan on putting in 1 gallon - then checking it while running and seeing if it shows up on the dip stick. If not - then I know a whole lot more fluid is going to be needed. Will also check to see if I can see the leaks. If that's the case it will need to be towed to Aamco to have them drop the pan and tell their evaluation before putting more fluid back in it. Makes no sense to fill it w.fluid if it all will end up leaking out or get flushed out by them at some point. Would be nice to get by without major repairs but hubby now insists he wants it to run short distances...even though we can go nowhere. He is so frail he can barely make it out of the house go inside and lay down in it. Oh well at least it is a change of scenery for him. Big Sigh.

2kGeorgieBoy

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #8 on: February 13, 2018, 06:29:35 PM »
Did you check the tranny with the engine running and in PARK?  Don't add a gallon of fluid. Do it a little at a time using a quart container or something. Between each addition leave the stick out and allow time for the fluid to run down inside the tube, 5-10 minutes. Check the level using the "cold" marks since you won't have driven it to warm up the fluid which takes several miles at least.
2000 Georgie Boy Maverick
31' E450 V10  No slides
our toys:
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Westcliffe, CO.

a1aweb

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #9 on: February 14, 2018, 08:37:40 AM »
Thanks I will try adding a little at a time and checking it.

Just in case it is not just the oil filter gasket leaking what does replacing
a front crankshaft seal cost at a shop on average?

a1aweb

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #10 on: February 14, 2018, 08:43:58 AM »
Yes I did have the engine running when I checked it.
Only thick red gunk on the very tip of the stick- haven't started it since
as I am waiting for the Merc V tranny fluid order that should arrive tomorrow.

Gary RV_Wizard

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #11 on: February 14, 2018, 09:44:36 AM »
The Ford 4R100 came out in 1998 but your chassis is probably a 1997, which was usually equipped with the E4OD and the 460 (7.5L) V8 engine. It's not critical difference except for buying component parts, since the 4R100 is just a somewhat beefed up version of the E4OD anyway.
Gary
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Summers: Black Mountain, NC
Home: Ocala National Forest, FL

NY_Dutch

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #12 on: February 14, 2018, 12:59:29 PM »
Thanks I will try adding a little at a time and checking it.

Just in case it is not just the oil filter gasket leaking what does replacing
a front crankshaft seal cost at a shop on average?

First wipe the block clean around the filter and run the engine long enough to determine the source of the leak. Hopefully it's just a simple filter issue, since front seal replacement costs can be all over the place, depending on local shop rates and whether the shaft needs to be sleeved, etc.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox base plate

Old_Crow

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #13 on: February 15, 2018, 06:53:25 AM »
Another thing to look for on the oil filter is a double gasket.  Sometimes the old gasket sticks to the block and stays when you remove the filter.  If that happens you can end up with 2 gaskets stacked after you put the new filter on.
Wally Crow
Retired 30 year ASE Master Auto Tech
Y2K Bounder 36S F53
'03 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

"Well, my time of not taking you seriously is coming to a middle."

a1aweb

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #14 on: February 15, 2018, 06:05:32 PM »
Good news - after cleaning off the outside of the oil filter it turns out it has a tiny hole on the bottom of it that oil is leaking from...not from the gasket at all and not from the engine.

As for the transmission - I put in 1 quart yesterday, started it let it run about 5 minutes then checked it - still nothing but gunk on the end....put in another quart ran it and checked it - still nothing but gunk on the end.
How long should I run it before checking it?

NY_Dutch

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #15 on: February 15, 2018, 06:14:18 PM »
2-3 minutes is enough time for the fluid to circulate. Assuming you're wiping the gunk off of the dip stick each time, it looks to me like you should consider having the transmission professionally flushed along with a filter change.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox base plate

a1aweb

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #16 on: February 15, 2018, 07:11:23 PM »
Yup I've been wiping it off every time I check it.
Take it to a tranny shop - really. Gee I never thought of that - your so smart.
Can I send you the bill  ;D



NY_Dutch

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Re: 98 Bounder 36S Ford F-53 Chassis correct oil filter?
« Reply #17 on: February 15, 2018, 07:45:08 PM »
You can certainly tackle getting the gunk out of that transmission and flushing it yourself as long as you're comfortable with dropping the pan and changing the filter. And know the procedure for flushing without a flush pump. Otherwise, a tranny shop that does have the right equipment should do a better job of it.


And I won't send you a bill, I sold my part ownership in an OTR truck repair shop a few years ago... ;)
« Last Edit: February 15, 2018, 07:47:24 PM by NY_Dutch »
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox base plate