Tow bar basics.
First the tow bar needs to be "level" or within a couple inches end to end. if the Motor Home hitch is hitch is high above the attachment point then when you stop the car will tend to "run under" the RV and lift it reducing the effectivness of the RV's brakes and possibly doing damage.
if the RV's hitch point is too LOW Story of a man who pulled up to a red light and WHAM his towed ran up and hit the rear of his RV and when the light turned green WHAM as the towed went back down Not good for either vehicle.
Next. Ball or telescoping arm.. The latter is way easier to hook up. Does not matter if towing 10 miles or 1,000 miles, the latter is easier to hook up Way easier.. I've done both standard ball hitch trailers of assorted types and uses and telescoping arm tow bar for my towed and telescopign arm is WAY easier... that said Your choice,, What do I mean by easier... I just hooked up (not 2 hours ago) to get ready for travel tomorrow
I pulled up a bit too far to the left (oops) with a ball hitch Id have had to jocky to the right and I'd have had to make sure I was exact front to back as well very precise (within about a quarter inch)
With the telescoing I got out "too far back and left" pulled ahead a fw inches, hooked up RIGHT tow bar was still too far for left. Turned wheels hard right and pulled ahead a couple inches nore (I;m on a hill no engine power was used) hooked up the left centered the wheel and set transnmission and such for towing,
Hooked up safety cable and umbicial job done.
Tomorrow when I pull out within 50 feet the car will center and lock into position,.
Likewise it will be easy to UNHOOK later in the day. (I have to come back to within 3 miles of where I"m parked.. Oh the joy of a day on the road).
I highly recommend a telescoping and also one that STOWS on the MOtor home, nto the towed.
Next brakes... They help .having brakes on teh Towed operated by the Motor home both shortens stopping distance and reduces wear on the expensive MH brakes (Front pads were 100 dollars when I replaced them,, Labor for that job was zero since we had 'em off for other reasons).
I highly recommend them
Braking systems
Ready Brute tow bar with Ready Brake ,,, also Blue Ox auto-stop
These are SURGE brakes systems. the force of the car pushing against the RV is what applies the brakes. Nice, more or less self adjusting (After initial setup) only major issue is the cable on the car, ti's a parking brake cable.. And like all parking brake cables you need to make sure it does not size up on you (Check it from time to time)
M&G, if your motor home has air brakes and the slave unit fits your car.. Very nice. 100% invisible to a driver of the car when not being towed, less than 10 seconds to hook up and unhook.
Several "installed" systems.. Again very fast hook up, Too many to list. A small bracket on the brake pedal arm is all a towed driver will notice.
US-Gear Unified Brake Decelerator.. (one of the last class) gives you full control over towed brakes, You can engage towed brakes without RV brakes, or you can disable the system FROM the driver's seat.
Box in the driver's seat (Even Brake, Apollo, Brake buddy) these claim "no installation needed" which is of course a lie, you install them EVERY time you tow, And Every install is a chance to SCREW IT UP (My brake system installer screwed up mine costing me a brake job, I had to fix it)
And there is way too much temptation for a short tow to say "oh forget it" and regret later.
