Roof coating 7wou
- Thread starter Vectra 04
- Start date
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
John Canfield
Site Team
I don't think the application method is as important as the coating performance and integrity of the business applying the coating.
When we were researching having the hull of our 40' sailboat painted, one method was spray and the other was "roll and tip". Spray is obvious, roll and tip required coordination between two people. One guy rolled the coating and the other guy used a high dollar brush to pull out the coating to smooth it out. We went with spray.
Why do you want your roof coated?
When we were researching having the hull of our 40' sailboat painted, one method was spray and the other was "roll and tip". Spray is obvious, roll and tip required coordination between two people. One guy rolled the coating and the other guy used a high dollar brush to pull out the coating to smooth it out. We went with spray.
Why do you want your roof coated?
kjansen
Well-known member
Minnesota RV Roofers have a product that you roll on. It can be a do it yourself project that is easy to do. I've coated my houseboat and my 5er with it. Runs about $500 for 250 sq feet of roof.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Agree with John. Roll, spray or even brush makes little difference if the work is done properly.
You didn't mention a year or model, but most Winnebagos have fiberglass roofs. Why do you want to coat yours? Or do you just want to paint it for cosmetic reasons? That's different than a roof coating, which in RV terms is a thick elastomeric layer.
You didn't mention a year or model, but most Winnebagos have fiberglass roofs. Why do you want to coat yours? Or do you just want to paint it for cosmetic reasons? That's different than a roof coating, which in RV terms is a thick elastomeric layer.
John Hilley
Well-known member
Going by poster's name, I assume he has a 2004 Vectra which wouldn't need a roof coating, but if worried about leaks would just need inspection and replacing dried up or otherwise bad caulking around vents and other roof protrusions and seams. Seams should be inspected every 6 months.
John Canfield
Site Team
Hate to break the bad news to you but I'm thinking you need a new roof. Discuss the situation with Winnebago Owner Relations before you take another step.
Your roof consists of (not including trusses):
Thin layer of Filon (like fiberglass)
Thin layer of Luan plywood
Styrofoam insulation
Headliner (inside of the coach)
I really can't think of any way to re-bond the Filon to the Luan. On boat decks the deck and hull usually have a core of balsa wood or some other material) and sometimes the fiberglass will break away from the deck core (delamination.) One fix for that is to drill a zillion holes and inject epoxy resin but I don't see how you could do that on an RV roof. If Winnebago gives you the new roof solution, I think you're looking at about $10k.
Your roof consists of (not including trusses):
Thin layer of Filon (like fiberglass)
Thin layer of Luan plywood
Styrofoam insulation
Headliner (inside of the coach)
I really can't think of any way to re-bond the Filon to the Luan. On boat decks the deck and hull usually have a core of balsa wood or some other material) and sometimes the fiberglass will break away from the deck core (delamination.) One fix for that is to drill a zillion holes and inject epoxy resin but I don't see how you could do that on an RV roof. If Winnebago gives you the new roof solution, I think you're looking at about $10k.
As long as the glue holds in the construction of the roof its very strong, but if any part of the 3 layers two wood and one foam fails its another story . Do you know the location of the roof trusses if any that would make a difference . Thanks again for your input .
John Canfield
Site Team
Owner Relations can email you the roof structural diagram.
