No airflow out of the vents in the front

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Magnet21

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Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
12
Thanks!

The ignition has to be on for the jacks to work on this rig.  Maybe setting and resetting the park brake jiggled some sort of interlock into working again......

Have also had chronic problems with house batteries being low.  Finally traced it to a bad connector shorting on the 120v to 12v convertor.  New convertor and house batteries cured that.

Replaced fittings on water heating with brass ones as the plastic ones it came with finally cracked after all the heat cycles they were exposed to and yes, this did happen in the middle of winter.

When I turn on the propane heat, the rear of the coach heats up fine, but there is no airflow out of the vents in the front of the coach.  Any clue as to what to check/replace?

This is a great site with a lot of good information

Cheers

Edit by staff - split topic (this is the new topic) - changed message icon to topic solved


 
I have had the rig for 5 years.  Furnace had blower motor replaced a year ago.  It has an RV Comfort ZC  thermostat which was replaced 2 years ago and it seems to have a mind of its own.  It sometimes displays "00" on the temp Window.  When it gets all goofy, I take the fuse on the thermostat out, wait a bit, put it back in, reprogram it per the instructions it came with and it works again but it still only has warm air coming out of the floor vents in the rear of the coach.
 
The  RV Comfort ZC thermostat is a multi-zone type. Are you sure you have set the front zone for heating?

Do you have the manual for the ZC? If not, get it at http://www.dyersonline.com/downloadfile/download/aitfile/aitfile_id/3465/
 
Magnet21 said:
...  I did notice a yellow wire and a white wire hanging loose near the fuse box.  Anyone know what they are for?...

Winnebago labels all of its 12V wiring every few inches.  Take a look at the Wiring Identification Guide to identify a particular wire based on its label.  If you go here Wiring Diagrams - Motorized you can find the full wiring diagram for your coach.  The Wiring Diagram Help will also help you to interpret the wiring diagrams.
 
First of all, let me apologize for being so tardy with a reply.  I finally got the ZC Thermostat to work as it should with the heating and cooling.  The problem was (I hope you are ready for this?) : I had put LED bulbs in some years back and a couple of them would sometimes flicker.  I called the ZC company and they offered trying to get the stat to program and work properly with all the lights turned off.  I turned them all off and voila! the damn thing accepted programming started to work as it should.  I get heat from all the vents and the A/C works as it should.  I turned on the lights one at a time and as soon as I got to one that flickered and turned it on, the stat decided to go on vacation and would only show one zone and would not accept temperature changes.  Had to remove the fuse to get it to stop the furnace.
All the LED lights were replaced with halogen bulbs and that fixed all the problems with the electrical weirdness and heating A/C problems in the coach.  It seems that cheap LED lights or ones that are malfunctioning set up "static" or interference  within the DC system and this causes the DC controllers to become weird and do un-programmed things.  Sometimes if the heat was on and I turned on the overhead kitchen lights, the awning would roll up.  The only way to keep it out was to turn off the awning power switch.
Other stuff I did was to tighten every ground I could find and to insure nothing was shorting out.  The bulbs did the trick though.
The only thing the dealer could offer was to sell me a new stat.
I hope this was helpful....

Jim
 
Magnet21 said:
...It seems that cheap LED lights or ones that are malfunctioning set up "static" or interference  within the DC system and this causes the DC controllers to become weird and do un-programmed things. ...
Thanks for checking in with the fix! I've heard of electronic light ballasts causing interference but never LEDs. Can you post a picture and/or make/model number of them?
 
I will do that tonite.  They are cheapies from China and all seemed well until the flickering business started.  I can't remember where I bought them, but it was an online purchase....maybe Amazon.
In speaking with a factory parts guy at Winnebago, it turns out he was once a parts guy and said they knew of some kind of code number that LEDs had to have in order to "proof" them against what mine were doing.  He could not recall what that code or certification was.

Cheers

Jim
 
Well there's your Winnebago homework John..

What's this "test" ?
How do they do it ?
What results are they looking for?

Ain't never heard of a LED stress test before. They either work or they don't..
 
Here is a photo of the offending lights.  There are no numbers or printing on any of them and the packaging they came in is long gone.  I would just avoid using them on any DC circuit that has DC powered controllers on it.  Hope this is helpful

Jim
 

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I'm not up on circuitry for LEDs replacements ,  I'm guessing it's a voltage regulator or maybe a buck-boost circuit. That has aroused my curiosity,  I need to research.
 

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