Oil changes

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Bagelboy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 14, 2016
Posts
48
Location
Saugerties, NY and Tarpon Springs, FL
Been in my 2017 Class C with a Super Duty Ford 450 for 1 1/2 years now. I have near 20,000 miles on it. Religiously change the oil every 3000 miles. As you can tell, I do some mileage. So when I first got my rig new, I asked at the dealer, I called my mechanic, and even called the local Ford dealership, and no one could give me an answer. Does this motor have 6 or 7 quarts of oil? I have changed every time and put 6 1/2 quarts to be safe. I still have not gotten an answer! Thanks for any help!
 
Many engines have two different capacities or 3 (try a 352 Cleveland, some take 5 GALLONS others 5 Quarts) depending on multiple things.. LIke what oil filter you have (that's my Chevy Engine).

Do your oil and filter change, put in 6 Quarts, start it and let it run for a bit, Have a cup of coffee or a glass of your favorite, check the oil, if it shows "FULL" then it is a 6 quart engine, if it says "I need A quart" 7,  That is the only way to be 100% sure.
 
I'm struggling to believe that nobody knows the oil capacity of the V10 engine in an E450 chassis. You should have received a Ford chassis owner manual with the coach, but if you did not, download it here:
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2016-E-Series-Owners-Manual-version-2_om_EN-US_10_2015.pdf

Capacities and Specifications page 201 in the above manual clearly states that the 6.8L V10 has an oil capacity of 6 quarts (with filter). Capacities are also given for coolant, tranny fluid, fuel, etc.
 
Thanks Gary, I simply did 6 1/2 because I couldn't find an answer anywhere. I figured the extra 1/2 quart wouldn't be overfilling it to much, but if it needed 7 quarts, it would be 1/2 quart shy. Now I know.
 
  Many years ago in another ice age, I taught a course in Motorcycle/small engine maint. & repair at Saddleback College in Orange Co. CA,. The first item on the checklist was :Don't overlook the obvious: >>>Dan
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
I gather you don't trust the dipstick either...

And probably a good thing. Put in what the manufacturer recommended, run the engine, then let it sit for a couple of hours, or even better, overnight, then check the dipstick. I've seen many dipsticks that were off significantly (over 1/2 a quart), and even the wrong dipstick for the engine.
 
I also have the e450 V10. Manual says 6 quarts with filter. Just recently changed per specifications and it shows a 1/2 quart low. I left it this way as it doesn't use any oil and thought perhaps someone made a mistake or it's not the original dipstick. I noticed this before but forgot about it. Will keep an eye on it now. Anyone else notice the same?
 
The old Bounder with the 460 in it has always read about 3/4 qt. low with the required 6 gts. Over twenty years now and front end height still the same. I also have a Ford 460, 351, and 302 in pickups and they read 1/2 qt. overfull with the required 6 qts. Bought a new Peterbilt in 2002 with a C16 cat and dipstick was off over a gallon.
 
Not quite sure why anyone would change oil at 3000 miles. Any motor oil, even most store name conventional oils will easily perform well to 5000 miles.  Many of the better oils even further.  I know of no manufacturer that recommends 3000 mile oil changes in this day and age for any oil that meets their minimum specs.  Save some money and follow the OEM recommendation.
 
I've seen many dipsticks that were off significantly (over 1/2 a quart), and even the wrong dipstick for the engine.

I've seen dipsticks that weren't marked
 
It's kind of hard breaking old habits and running the engine oil to what is recommended by the manufacturer makes me squirm a little bit. Here's what it says from the link posted; NORMAL SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE
Every 7500 miles (12000 km) or six months (whichever comes first)
Change engine oil and filter.
Rotate tires*, inspect tire wear and measure tread depth.
Inspect wheels and related components for abnormal noise, wear, looseness or drag.
Perform multi-point inspection (recommended).
I will normally go somewhere between 5-6,000 miles on my rigs. But, with the MH, since we will maybe get 1,500 -2,000 through a year it is a little confusing. The above says 7500 miles OR 6 months. I'm not gonna dump full synthetic oil every 6 months!
What do you guys normally do when the mileage is low, but the months are racking up?
 
I'm not gonna dump full synthetic oil every 6 months!
What do you guys normally do when the mileage is low, but the months are racking up?

I start by not using synthetic oil. I use a decent grade of dino oil, i.e. any that meets API service specs for the engine, and change annually, which for us was 5000-8000 miles (on a diesel with a 12 month, 15k mile change interval). I use synthetic in my car, which gets about 14k/year, but dino oil in the coach.

The necessary oil change interval varies with the use, i.e. speed, highway vs stop & go, temperature changes, etc.  Many newer vehicle use predictive oil change intervals based on actual operational use (as recorded by the engine ECM). With even moderate highway use, intervals usually run  7500-9000 miles and no time limit. Most motorhomes get driven enough highway miles such that intervals can be longer time periods.  The short time intervals are primarily to cover vehicles that do short trips plus stop & go conditions, both of which are tough on oil life.
 
Thanks for your input, Gary. I still like synthetic oil better for the heavy work the V10 does. I had an air cooled 1100cc sport bike years ago. I had always run Castrol syntec in it without any problems. At the time of one oil change I cheaped out (cause I was low on cash) and installed regular Castrol GTX. I don't remember the exact weight I used, but probably a 20w -50. My usual ride home consisted of an uphill climb & hair pin corner. With the dino oil my oil level light kept coming on in the corners. The dino oil thinned out so badly it would flow away from the level sensor. I was very concerned I had an engine issue until I deduced it was from using dino oil. Next payday I swapped it out for Syntec. Problem was gone. In heavy use or performance situations I always go synthetic now. These are just my experiences, we all have our own opinions/experiences, so no disrespect intended!  :)  Pat
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
I start by not using synthetic oil. I use a decent grade of dino oil, i.e. any that meets API service specs for the engine, and change annually, which for us was 5000-8000 miles (on a diesel with a 12 month, 15k mile change interval). I use synthetic in my car, which gets about 14k/year, but dino oil in the coach.

The necessary oil change interval varies with the use, i.e. speed, highway vs stop & go, temperature changes, etc.  Many newer vehicle use predictive oil change intervals based on actual operational use (as recorded by the engine ECM). With even moderate highway use, intervals usually run  7500-9000 miles and no time limit. Most motorhomes get driven enough highway miles such that intervals can be longer time periods.  The short time intervals are primarily to cover vehicles that do short trips plus stop & go conditions, both of which are tough on oil life.

It seemed to me that changing oil at an interval rather than at a mileage made little sense.  I found one reference on line that said that oil sitting for long periods in an oil filter can clog it and inhibit its ability to filter oil, hence the need for periodic changes.  Is this nonsense?
 
I won't say it's nonsense, but to me it is. I was told some of the additives in the oil age out, hence, the changing of the oil at least once a year. Got to be true, I read it on the internet.  :)
 
Changing based on age is a catch-all for a variety of conditions that might occur but generally do not. When the engineers write these guidelines, they have no idea how the engine & vehicle is being used [or not], vehicle age (the instructions last forever), weather conditions, or contaminants that may be present, so they cover the possibilities with a periodic change.  They are spending your time & money, so why not take the safest approach?

Some of the many possible factors are: Oil accumulates moisture, contaminants from the air, and sludge from the engine; the chemical structure may undergo change from repeated heating & cooling; stop & go driving & short trips deteriorates oil faster than highway driving but don't build up many miles;  acids that can build up in the oil harm surfaces even when the engine isn't running; additives may age.

If you use the RV much, none of these things are much of a concern, but for those who do an occasional weekend trip to a relatively near place there is some wisdom in changing oil before x thousand miles.
 
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