water heater issues.

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GrumpyOldGoat

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Joined
Mar 11, 2018
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4
2006 Forest River Sandpiper.

38" two slides, 2 AC and a water heater that spews out the top starting yesterday.

SW10DE SUBURBAN 10 GALLON WATER HEATER.

Since the lines go in on the end, the pressure valve, drain/anode are all on the outer end, I assume a hole has appeared where there should be no hole.

I'm crowding 71 pretty hard, tired and want the simplest and cheapest solution.

Replace with---

Used for $400 +/-

New $590 +/- and up,

or

on demand?  cost unknown.

IF the hole on the top is a split from possible freezing at some point in it's Pre-ME days could it be welded?
 
No matter which way you go the water heater has to come out and then you can make your decision. I have welded one that was split due to freezing with no problems after.
 
Pretty good spray.  Maybe a pint a minute, but it was sudden.
I don't know if there are designed holes for temp gauges or some other stuff.

North Georgia Mountains and it 's been rainy and windy for the last two days and I feel disinclined to stand out in the cold rain and try to pry the silicon caulk out of all the screw heads and around the wiring that go through the bulkhead.

Since the heater has been running continuously for 2 years, a sudden leak is surprising.

Weather tomorrow is supposed to be human friendly.

Thanks for the info.

 
kjansen said:
No matter which way you go the water heater has to come out and then you can make your decision. I have welded one that was split due to freezing with no problems after.
Click to expand...


Perhaps I shall locate a welder in the morning then.
Thank You for the information.
 
GrumpyOldGoat said:
2006 Forest River Sandpiper.

38" two slides, 2 AC and a water heater that spews out the top starting yesterday.

SW10DE SUBURBAN 10 GALLON WATER HEATER.

Since the lines go in on the end, the pressure valve, drain/anode are all on the outer end, I assume a hole has appeared where there should be no hole.

I'm crowding 71 pretty hard, tired and want the simplest and cheapest solution.

Replace with---

Used for $400 +/-

New $590 +/- and up,

or

on demand?  cost unknown.

IF the hole on the top is a split from possible freezing at some point in it's Pre-ME days could it be welded?
Click to expand...

399.00 brand new for a 10 gallon wh at PPL Motorhomes.
 
Is this RV new to you?
 
Being a Suburban, it uses anode in the drain plug to prevent minerals in the water from attacking the tank wall. If this RV is new to you, maybe the previous owner didn't use the anode and the tank has corroded. If that's the case, welding won't fix it.
 
Last year I discovered my hot water tank had a hairline crack in it but enough that I was losing water and in danger of rotting out the flooring. No idea how or why and it was built in to an impossible area that would almost require remodeling the rig to replace it. Critical plumbing and electrical was snaked all around it. I could see the cha-ching in a repairman charging me thousands to replace the thing in view of all the stuff that had to be rerouted long enough to remove and replace it.

Thinking on my boating days in far flung ports in the Caribbean where I had to repair things with next to nothing,  I thought about underwater weld!

Well duh, for about $5 I bought J-B Weld 8277 WaterWeld Epoxy Putty Stick - 2 oz. from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRQ0TW

That repaired the crack and 14 months later when I sold the rig, it was still holding tight and producing hot water 24/7 without a drop leaking out.

It saved me a bundle of money for sure. Follow the directions carefully.

Follow the directions carefully.

Did I mention Follow the directions carefully?

Because you should Follow the directions carefully.  8)
 
Well...

Thank You to everybody for the ideas and information.

Pinhole near the top.

Pressure tested at 30lbs, and scraped my thumbnail across the wet spot.

No longer a wetspot, but a nice pencil lead size stream.

The anode was replaced last year and in good shape.  Last years take out was about 1/8" for most of the length.

$389 from brand X, with free shipping.

Now, for the left over parts.

I assume the control board has value,  anything else worth taking off before the carcass goes to the local recycle place?
 
Dont know where you got your prices, but two summers ago I replaced mine for less than 400 dollars. Took me all of two hours including some paint work.
 
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