Any LEGAL (and sensible) way to improve a truck's towing capacity?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
BoomerD

BoomerD

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 21, 2014
Posts
1,326
Location
Grays Harbor County, WA
I'm considering changing from the Class A motorhome to a truck and travel trailer. I have an 05 F-150 (2wd) that has the 4.2l V6...and a towing capacity of 5000 lbs. In the "old days," I'd probably have just put on a good class IV hitch, added the biggest transmission cooler I could get...and MAYBE put in a larger radiator (if I could get one) but as I've gotten older...I've gotten a teensy-bit smarter...(I hope)

It irritates me to possibly spend $20,000, $30,000...or more on a new truck that will only tow 2000 lbs more than the one I have. (I looked at a gorgeous F150 Platinum yesterday for $65,000...with a tow rating of 7,000 lbs.  :eek:

sure, sure...I know...with the small engine, this thing ain't ever gonna tow a 40 footer up and down the mountains at 65...but...it SHOULD handle 7000-8000 lbs if properly equipped. (and of course..."properly equipped" might mean a larger engine, beefier transmission and suspension, and much larger cooling system...which is why I've been looking at newer trucks anyway.)

I DO NOT want to get into legal problems for exceeding the truck's GCWR or even the GVWR...

I'd LOVE to "upgrade" to a 3/4 ton truck...but the reality of it is that this would also become our daily driver...and fuel economy when not towing is also somewhat important. I don't want to go back to the days of 10-12 mpg whether towing or not...(like my old Dodge D350 SRW)
 
There is no free lunch. Anything you do to your current truck will not make much of a difference. I think you would be better off just upgrading the class A.
 
Thanks, but my wife isn't comfortable riding in the Class A, (the wide vista and being so high above traffic) and so when we go anywhere, instead of towing our car, she drives it...

Time to change RV styles. (and I don't want to go back to a Class C.)

But that's pretty much what I think as well...the truck was built how it was built...not really much I can do to make it more "tow-worthy."
 
We are kinda going through the same thing. We have a very small Winnebago Winnie Drop and tow it with Nissan Frontier. We are looking at upgrading to a Lance TT or Camplite. Have to have a beefier tow vehicle. Looking at 1 ton Chevy Express cargo van. Tow rating right at 10k. I can pick up a 2017 with 15,000-20,000 miles for around $25k.
 
I think you could likely gain some capacity by changing your rear diff gearing, depending of course what it has now....  Look in your manual in the towing capacities section.  you should find  a table, breaking down the weight capacities for different equipment combinations. 
The chassis is a fixed variable
the engine and tranny, doubt if you'd want to change out those just for this purpose...
but the rear diff is a variable.  Not sure if it would be worth it, but maybe...

When I was considering TT's, I found that even though my 1/2 ton has the factory towing package (hitch, tranny cooler, etc..), the differential gearing is really a limitation....but it would do much better if it had a different rear end option.

In the end though, it's still only a half ton truck....
 
Yep. I'm looking hard at a 2012 F-150 with 3.73 gears and the 3.5 eco-boost. According to Ford, it has a towing capacity of 11,300 lbs. That's more than I think I'll need. My BIG problem with it is that it's black...with black leather seats...<insert burned but smiley> Otherwise, only 24,000 miles on it...and it LOOKS nice. (other than being black...which is a bugger to keep clean)
 
The short answer is no.  Limiting factors also include suspension, rear axle wt rating, braking capacity, and the need for a licensed auto engineer to certify the changes and new GVWR. (say expensive) 

Note the legal implications for towing overloaded are non existent.  Unless you are GROSSLY overweight, you will never be stopped or questioned.  HOWEVER, if you are in an accident and are above the truck's rated weight limits, the lawyers will eat you alive.

I think looking for a different truck is your best option.  I hear you on the black interior.  When we got our current truck, my must have, not negotiable list included tan interior - NOT BLACK!  Lariat trim only came in tan or black.  Keep looking.  Your truck is out there!
 
Changing tow rating involves engineers and lots of $$$$$$$ there are lots pf good used deals out there my last 5 trucks have had black interiors and with the ac units these days its not a big deal my dually just did 17 mpg on the highway without a trailer. The newer trucks are better on fuel - not great but better my 08 dually did 8 mpg and was a pig
 
Ok, Tow rating is based on several issues. Strength of Frame, Brakes, Axle ratings and the like.

There is one, and only one way to easily and "Cheaply" change (increase) these ratings.

Jack up the radiator cap and drive a new (Bigger) truck under it is the joke.

Take Truck to dealer and trade up is the serious answer.

Springs (Which are assisted by Air bags) are not the deciding factor. but the axle and frame are.

Oh, and the hitch.
 
John From Detroit said:
Ok, Tow rating is based on several issues. Strength of Frame, Brakes, Axle ratings and the like.

There is one, and only one way to easily and "Cheaply" change (increase) these ratings.

Jack up the radiator cap and drive a new (Bigger) truck under it is the joke.

Take Truck to dealer and trade up is the serious answer.

Springs (Which are assisted by Air bags) are not the deciding factor. but the axle and frame are.

Oh, and the hitch.
Click to expand...

Sheesh...youse guys are getting awfully free with my hard-earned social security dollars!  :mad:

;)

Unfortunately, your collection of common sense answers, while NOT what I want to hear...are exactly what I suspected.  8)
 
There are folks who come here with questions like yours, and get the honest truth.  They can't stand the truth and try to find the answer they want elsewhere.  The SMART  ones may not like the answers, but understand the logic.  Some choose to heed the advise.  Others choose to take their chances.

None of us have anything to gain by this advice / opinion.  We choose to share our expertise with others in the hope of saving them money from bad decisions and to keep them safer.

Except for Steve.  He sells truck parts!  ;D  Also knows about them!
 
grashley said:
There are folks who come here with questions like yours, and get the honest truth.  They can't stand the truth and try to find the answer they want elsewhere.  The SMART  ones may not like the answers, but understand the logic.  Some choose to heed the advise.  Others choose to take their chances.

None of us have anything to gain by this advice / opinion.  We choose to share our expertise with others in the hope of saving them money from bad decisions and to keep them safer.

Except for Steve.  He sells truck parts!  ;D  Also knows about them!
Click to expand...

Lol thanks Gord
 
Like the old saw....."What can you fill a barrel with to make it lighter?"



"HOLES"                       

JM2?                      YMMV
 
steveblonde said:
Changing tow rating involves engineers and lots of $$$$$$$ there are lots pf good used deals out there my last 5 trucks have had black interiors and with the ac units these days its not a big deal my dually just did 17 mpg on the highway without a trailer. The newer trucks are better on fuel - not great but better my 08 dually did 8 mpg and was a pig
Click to expand...

I'm sure this is true.  But I believe you're talking about changing the rating of commercial vehicles?  Why would anyone bother to change the tow rating of a non-commercial vehicle?  Does the US DOT even looks at the weight ratings of non-commercial vehicles?
 
garyb1st said:
I'm sure this is true.  But I believe you're talking about changing the rating of commercial vehicles?  Why would anyone bother to change the tow rating of a non-commercial vehicle?  Does the US DOT even looks at the weight ratings of non-commercial vehicles?
Click to expand...

Kinda sort of correct is costs a lot to change either commercial or non and you are coreect in that DOT generally will not look at private vehicles until recently - Idaho will now pull over private vehicles and so will British Columbia and Ontario that i know of, and i know people that have been pulled over in Idaho and here in Canada - and there has been a ton of talk on both sides of the border about enforcement. Insurance companies are clamping down as a way to mitigate insurnce claims.

But then there is also the grey areas -a chevy 2500 and a chev 3500 are identical in motir trans rear ends brakes etc etc but the 3500 has 1 extra spring which gives it about 800 extra pounds capacity in the box and that little yellow decal.

A couple hundred pounds over and nobody is going to care BUT some people will take that to 600 or 800 lbs etc

We laughed our asses off one day when a guy in a Ram 1500 pulling a 5er ripped his rear bumper off on a speed bump in a campground but he has to be 800 lbs over

That same weekend we watched a guy with a trailer way to big put 4 kids in the rear of his truck load bikes and a ton of crap into the box of his truck and the trailer hitch was scraping the pavement while he drove

So i think they are starting to draw some lines
 
You can upgrade the f150 to tow the trailer but you can't upgrade the motor and it probably won't tow it for long.  First, let me say that if you are not hauling or towing for compensation nobody is going to stop you and weigh you.  I've heard and read for years about people who were stopped and weighed but when challenged it is always somebody else it happened to.  You can level the truck while towing with airbags and upgrade the rear tires to some that are rated higher than the weight on them which you will get by weighing the rig hooked up and loaded. A tranny cooler would probably also be needed.  Then you get a good leveling hitch.  Finally, and very importantly you will need to keep the trailer brakes in absolutely tip top condition including adjustment often.  Then you will surely shorten the life of the engine if you try to tow up any thing higher than an ant hill.

Or, you could look for an older diesel, something before 2007. A short bed 250 extended cab would give you good fuel mileage 20 + MPG when daily driving and can be equipped to tow most any trailer you might want.  The Ford 7.3L and the Dodge cummins motors are good for 500,000 miles if maintained.  I'm a Ford guy myself and if you look for them a 7.3L powered truck can be found, even a 6 liter is not too bad if it's been properly bullet proofed.  My 2001 F250 got well over 20 MPG empty and I towed a 16,000 + fifth wheel with it.  Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

  • Thanksgivng 2008 080a.jpg
    Thanksgivng 2008 080a.jpg
    117 KB · Views: 14
stanleyz said:
You can upgrade the f150 to tow the trailer but you can't upgrade the motor and it probably won't tow it for long.  First, let me say that if you are not hauling or towing for compensation nobody is going to stop you and weigh you.  I've heard and read for years about people who were stopped and weighed but when challenged it is always somebody else it happened to.  You can level the truck while towing with airbags and upgrade the rear tires to some that are rated higher than the weight on them which you will get by weighing the rig hooked up and loaded. A tranny cooler would probably also be needed.  Then you get a good leveling hitch.  Finally, and very importantly you will need to keep the trailer brakes in absolutely tip top condition including adjustment often.  Then you will surely shorten the life of the engine if you try to tow up any thing higher than an ant hill.

Or, you could look for an older diesel, something before 2007. A short bed 250 extended cab would give you good fuel mileage 20 + MPG when daily driving and can be equipped to tow most any trailer you might want.  The Ford 7.3L and the Dodge cummins motors are good for 500,000 miles if maintained.  I'm a Ford guy myself and if you look for them a 7.3L powered truck can be found, even a 6 liter is not too bad if it's been properly bullet proofed.  My 2001 F250 got well over 20 MPG empty and I towed a 16,000 + fifth wheel with it.  Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

I have friend who have been pulled over in B.C twice Joe - and in Idaho and i had to go rescue Greg outside of Sandpoint when he was overweight i was at Priest Lake -we had to go to Sandpoint to collect his stuff so please dont say it doesnt happen cause it does. I have personally seen mobile checks and been through them without being stopped. Airbags may level your ride but doesnt change your cargo capacity. Legally thats very poor advise not saying its not done but still not legal kinda like smokin dope everyone may do it but its not legal everywhere same idea
The poster asked for LEGAL WAYS
 
Yeah...I kind of knew there was nothing I could do to really improve the towing capacity of the truck...just trying to talk myself out of buying another truck...or settling for a much smaller (Casita?) travel trailer...I actually like the couple of Casitas I've seen...but dang...they're TINY.
 
as I posted earlier, I still think that you can within the limits of your owner's manual and the engineering done by the manufacturer, affect the capacity through changing the rear end gearing (to gearing that the manufacturer had offered as an option for that model.)  I don't know anything about the legal aspects of it, but otherwise.....
as an example, using my 2006 silverado which has the factory tow package, 5300 V8, and the 3.42:1 rear diff,
I have a GCVWR = 13,000#
but if I were to go to the salvage yard and find a 2006 model silvy exactly the same but with a 4.10:1 diff, and drop that in under my truck I'd gain 1,000# capacity with a 14,000# GCVWR

Is that not right?
 
blw2, In your case, POSSIBLY so, since you'd already have the necessary suspension upgrades for the tow package and such. With that tow capacity, you have...3/4 ton...maybe 1 ton?
 
In my case, my truck has NONE of that...and I'd probably have to basically remove the radiator cap...and drive a different truck under it.
it just irritates me to have to buy a new (er) truck just to gain a ton of towing capacity. Not CARGO capacity...just towing...but, "it is what it is," so I'm back to square one. New (to me) truck....or smaller trailer? (or both?)

We'll see.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 1,205 (members: 25, guests: 1,180)

Forum statistics

Threads
131,931
Posts
1,387,720
Members
137,682
Latest member
duckyw7528
Back
Top Bottom