2005 Itasca 34D. Changed the water heater from the 6 gal to 10. The old GCH6A-9E had 3 wires for connection on the 12v side. New Atwood GC10a-4E has 4. Old one was blue, green, & white. New one is blue, green, brown, and orange.Checked the wiring diagram on both. I connected blue -blue, green - green, brown & orange to the white. Gas function works. 120v is not coming on. 120v to heating element is good. ???? what is causing it to NOT energize. Switch inside MH is working & working at the water heater. It's brand new, I'm lost. HELP!
Changed Atwwod 6 gal to 10.
- Thread starter VA Paul
- Start date
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Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Your old heater relied on an external switch for the 120v power source, which was wired direct to the 120v thermostat on the back side of the heater. The new one has a relay onboard that switches the 120vac power under control of the circuit board. The 120v power source goes to the relay terminal on the circuit board and the external switch is 12vdc. The external switch simply tells the circuit board to activate 120v heating.
The attached file shows the changeover procedure.
The attached file shows the changeover procedure.
Rene T
Site Team
You said "120v to heating element is good". If you're saying that you have power at the terminals for the heating element and it's not working, you probably fried the element. Did you turn the power on to the element on a empty tank?
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
You bought the replacement package rather than a new installation heater package. The replacement doesn't come with a door or switches, assuming you already have those. But if you are replacing an older model or a different size, you won't have the ones you need to make the new one work.
You don't need the new combo switch - you can use any 12v-capable switch to turn the electric mode on. My coach had a regular residential wall switch for it, probably the same one that was used for earlier models that actually switched 120v power there. Doesn't matter - just find a 12v source and install a switch that routes that +12v to the heater control terminal for 120v operation. Your existing gas mode 12v switch & light should still work fine for LP gas mode.
The wire colors you named don't seem to match the instructions I posted, but you should be able to figure it out. The pdf file shows White, Orange, Green & Blue external wires. White & Orange are +12v for (respectively) electric and gas mode selection; Green is ground and Blue goes to the lockout lamp on your existing gas mode switch.
You don't need the new combo switch - you can use any 12v-capable switch to turn the electric mode on. My coach had a regular residential wall switch for it, probably the same one that was used for earlier models that actually switched 120v power there. Doesn't matter - just find a 12v source and install a switch that routes that +12v to the heater control terminal for 120v operation. Your existing gas mode 12v switch & light should still work fine for LP gas mode.
The wire colors you named don't seem to match the instructions I posted, but you should be able to figure it out. The pdf file shows White, Orange, Green & Blue external wires. White & Orange are +12v for (respectively) electric and gas mode selection; Green is ground and Blue goes to the lockout lamp on your existing gas mode switch.
