Matching Paint for 2010 Itasca Suncruiser

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

JoelP

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2016
Posts
735
Location
San Jose, CA
I am repainting part of a door on my RV and happen to have the color chart with the FLNA numbers for the Sikken paint that was originally used.  I provided these FLNA numbers to a Sikken distributor, but learned that these numbers do not come up in their system.  I provided them with the mix formula for 2 of the colors I need, but lack the formula for the 3rd.  Has anyone chased this sort of issue down?  I know that I can go have a color shop put a meter on this to get a close match, but it is never really perfect doing it that way.
 
John Canfield said:
If you have full body paint, call CDI in Forest City and see if they can help.

Thanks for the feedback.  Yes, I did that and they said to call a Sikken distributor in my area. After 2 days of chasing this near San Jose and learning there were none, I found a distributor who was just setting up for Sikken in San Luis Opisbo.  Their rep from Sikken was there yesterday and even the rep could not help them with the numbers I provided.  I had thought about circling back to CDI next for further guidance. I am not sure if the person I spoke to was in Forest City, but I will check.
 
When I needed body work done on my Journey, the body shop called their paint supplier who sent a guy with a camera .  He took some pictures and came up with  perfect  matches for the 3 colors needed.
 
Last year I went to a shop to get a smog check where they guided me through the narrow space to the point closes to the front of their shop.  In doing so they inadvertently guided me into the corner of the roof that was 2" lower that the top of my roof, putting 3 punctures into that fiberglass. I did the repair myself on the section of fiberglass that joins the roof to the side. After I had the fiberglass nice and smooth and primed I had a color shop put their colorimeter on a similar section of paint and then mix me a match.  They warned me that it would not be a perfect match, which was certain true, but it was so high up that nobody notices this mismatch.  If I were a skilled autoshop I would have worked to blend this mismatch into the surround, but that is a skill I have not perfected.

This driver's side door project is at eye level, so I thought it would be worth going after the original paint by the Sikkens number, or alternatively by the mix formula that was also provided with my vehicle when I purchased it.  This is likely to produce a better, although still not perfect, match with the original paint. Because of some onerous environmental laws in California that vary from one region of California to another, Sikkens paint cannot be sold anywhere near San Jose.  I had to contact a shop >2 hours away in San Luis Opisbo to find a distributor of Sikkens.

To my surprise and delight I got a call yesterday from a rep who works for Sikkens parent company.  He told me that he had gotten my name, number and address from the Sikkens distributor and their local rep and wanted to measure the colors on my RV.  He went on to say that he was actually outside of my house and wondered if I was available.  I was out there like a shot and we went to the rig. 

This was an amazing opportunity to learn a lot about how to finish this job.  He advised me on the best way to fill the pits in the corroded aluminum and what grades of sandpaper to use at each stage of the process.  He then advised me to not use the SEM etching primer that I had planned to use before the buildup primer. Instead he provided me with an alternative prep material that would do better to block the oxygen from penetrating to the aluminum.  He commented that etching primers really don't etch. If they did they would eat their way through the metal can in which they are sold.

Next he used his colorimeter to measure each of the colors and also matched up the level of sparkle in the topcoat.  He told me that I could not expect the finish with a spray can to be as good as the ones that a body shop would achieve with a $500 sprayer, several samples of which he happened to have in his trunk. He also could not guarantee a perfect match. As for the match I plan to paint the entire width of my drivers side door so it may not be so obvious that there is a small mismatch due the gap between the door and the surround, even if don't attempt to blend.  In any event I am doing this myself to avoid the ridiculously expensive estimates I received from two paint shops and to learn something from the process.  If I hate my result I can always get someone to paint over my work.

All this is to say that I am blown away that an AzkoNobel (Sikkens)  rep would take the time to come see me and to help me with my project.  it goes to show the pride that they take in their product.
 
John Canfield said:
I'm amazed this isn't an easier quest.

It as been a couple of months since I painted with the paint that was "matched" by the AzkoNobel rep for Sikkens. For 2 out of 3 colors used, the match was terrible!  I sent a photo to the Sikkens distributor that sold me this paint and they cheerfully refunded my money.  I decided to try again to buy this paint outside of California, specifically in Idaho where I own another property and where they don't follow California chemical restrictions.  With some work I found a Sikkens distributor in Boise who told me he could match any AzkoNobel Sikkens paint from the FLNA number.  I provided the numbers I needed and once again was told that they could not provide an exact match, but had it crossed to 3 other brands, any of which they would be willing to mix for me.  Not wanting to repeat the same problem, I asked if they knew of any Sikkens distributor in any other state that might be able to do a real Sikkens match.  They send me to a shop in Salt Lake City, UT.  When I called them they said they could only match automotive paint and were not equipped to match RV paints even if I provided the FLNA numbers or the formulas.  They sent me back to the AzkoNobel Sikkens headquarters where I spoke to the Colormix Customer Service, who then sent me to technical support, who said I should talk to one of their reps.  I chose a rep in Idaho this time.  He told me the same thing that the Boise Sikkens distributor told me about having to do a cross to other brands and then suggested I have the rig matched with an instrument, which is exactly what I did unsuccessfully back in March. My son-in-law, who used to own a wrap shop and knows a lot about automotive paint, tells me that it is very difficult or impossible to match a metallic flecked paint with a spot meter, regardless of the quality of the meter.

This makes me wonder how RV shops match paint like this.  I wonder if there is anyone at Winnebago who could provide me with better guidance. When I look at the Winnebago parts list it doesn't say anything about paints.

So, I just called CDI as John suggested. They say they can match from serial number or Vin number, but don't sell in spray cans. *** I called back with the Vin and Serial number and CDI identified the paint, but said they can only ship bottles of paint the size of fingernail polish out of state.  They connected me to their tech who told me that one of the colors I need is a Lexus color and the other is a Chevy color and provided me with those reference numbers.  They suggested that I visit a local Sherwin Williams dealer to buy these as water based paint as the best possible match.
 
After calling 2 local Sherwin Williams distributors who were able to mix this paint for me, but couldn't put it in a aerosol can, I was redirected to the distributor in San Francisco who will mix these for me next week, put them in aerosol cans and will send it to the Santa Clara distributor to hold for me. An aerosol can is far better than trying to find a $1000 spray nozzle that paint shops have.
 
Getting them to put the paint in a spray can would save a bunch of bucks and hassle. I bought a quart of one of my Horizon colors and it was something like 80 or 90 bucks, I forgot exactly but it was expensive. I have some very good spray guns but I don't bring them out unless I have a large spray job.
 
Perhaps a bit late, but did you try an auto parts store like NAPA?  They will mix it up and place it in a rattle can.  I've had that done with auto paint. So long as they can decipher the paint code.
 
Gods Country said:
Perhaps a bit late, but did you try an auto parts store like NAPA?  They will mix it up and place it in a rattle can.  I've had that done with auto paint. So long as they can decipher the paint code.

The shop I contacted in Boise was a NAPA.  They were very helpful, but were not confident that they could mix it to match.  It is possible that once I had the Lexus and Chevy color code they could have done what I am now getting in San Francisco.  BTW a can of Sherwin Williams in a spray can goes for only $26 +tax.
 
This post is to conclude this string.  I bought the two colors of paint from Sherwin Williams in San Francisco.  The next to the lightest of my RV colors now matched pretty well, but the beige is pretty far off target. I am out of ideas on how to get a better match.

Instead I have turned to distraction. I asked my son-in-law to prepare a wrap for this door to cover some of this area and to distract the eyes from this color problem.  It is a wrap of my dog, Danny, staring out of a window that only exists in vinyl. I have attached a photo to show the result.
 

Attachments

  • wrap on door_IMG_8071 small.jpg
    wrap on door_IMG_8071 small.jpg
    40 KB · Views: 21
The wrap is cute, but I'm surprised you even bothered to shoot the beige on the door. You probably could have found a closer match in Walmart's paint dept. Anytime I'm not sure of a paint color or match, I shoot a piece of scrap material first for comparison.
 
NY_Dutch said:
The wrap is cute, but I'm surprised you even bothered to shoot the beige on the door. You probably could have found a closer match in Walmart's paint dept. Anytime I'm not sure of a paint color or match, I shoot a piece of scrap material first for comparison.


Actually, I tested it on a piece of white melamine with a layer of undercoat.  I knew it wasn't a good match, but believe it or not, it was a better match than the 1st attempt at beige that I bought from Sikkens when the rep did a spot match. You can only imagine how bad that match was.
 
Back
Top Bottom