Receiver adapter question

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I recently bought a new HD tow vehicle and it has a 2.5 inch receiver. My current Reese WD set up has a 2" shank and I don't think the WD head will accept a 2.5" shank. I use a 2" adapter inside the 2.5 receiver for towing a lightweight boat but, I don't know if using an adapter with the WD system would be advisable. 6000 GVWR and 700 TW. What advice can you give me? TIA.
 
I also have a 2 1/2" receiver and I have a adapter like you. I just took a look at it and there is a sticker that says I can tow a 13,000 trailer with a tongue weight of 1500 lbs. I think that would take care of most any tag-a-long trailer.
 
Using a 2 1/2" to 2" adapter reduces your towing capabilities according to the manufacturer of the receiver.  Check the tag that is on you truck's receiver and see how much it drops.  I'm pretty sure that they vary from truck to truck brand.
 
Welcome to the Forum!

Here is a recent thread that thoroughly hashed out this topic.  Very good information.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,112256.0.html

Bottom line:  While the adapter will work, you may be happier with a new draw bar that is 2 ? inch to match the receiver.
 
Here's a breakdown of the various class receivers put out by Reese.

https://www.reese-hitches.com/learning_center/general-towing-classes

The way I see it, you have a class 5 hitch and using a adapter which goes from 2 1/2" down to 2" will work just fine in your situation.

 
Most of the Bigger to smaller adapters I've seen are a simple sleeve with a hole in it.

The Sleeve goes into the 2 1/2"  the 2" into the sleeve, line the holes up and insert pin.

I would not fear using a W/D system with this set up. NO loss of strength, the sleeve is under COMPRESSION load which is it's strongest aspect. no way it can fail since it is enclosed in the larger hitch receiver.. NOW that is under stress (Stretch) load but it is stronger than teh 2" so you are good to tow.

Now adapters to a SMALLER receiver. where you have an extension. THIS DOES NOT APPLY

But the ones that slip inside the receiver so you put a single pin through the receiver, reducer, hitch adapter, reducer, receiver,  Stronger than you can imagine.
 
John From Detroit said:
Most of the Bigger to smaller adapters I've seen are a simple sleeve with a hole in it.

The Sleeve goes into the 2 1/2"  the 2" into the sleeve, line the holes up and insert pin.

I would not fear using a W/D system with this set up. NO loss of strength, the sleeve is under COMPRESSION load which is it's strongest aspect. no way it can fail since it is enclosed in the larger hitch receiver.. NOW that is under stress (Stretch) load but it is stronger than teh 2" so you are good to tow.

Now adapters to a SMALLER receiver. where you have an extension. THIS DOES NOT APPLY

But the ones that slip inside the receiver so you put a single pin through the receiver, reducer, hitch adapter, reducer, receiver,  Stronger than you can imagine.

Exactly. I couldn't have said it better.
 
xrated said:
Using a 2 1/2" to 2" adapter reduces your towing capabilities according to the manufacturer of the receiver.  Check the tag that is on you truck's receiver and see how much it drops.  I'm pretty sure that they vary from truck to truck brand.

Your correct in that it may vary buy brand my 2013 had a sleeve but no difference in tow rating with or without the sleeve my Ford has a 3 inch reciever with 2 sleeves a 2 1/2 and. 2 inch but no markings on either sleeve - they are however a pain  to line up to put the pin through so i leave my rock tamers on all the time with a locking pin lol

The shank on a 2 1/2 inch ball mount is a lot stronger for obvious reasons but the poster should be just fine in his aplication
 
Does the 3" receiver on Ford trucks have a 3/4" hole?  I have read that they do.  If that is the case, a 5/8" pin should not be used and the parts drilled for the 3/4" pin.

Anyway, there have been reports of bending pins when a spacer sleeve is used with a 2-1/2" receiver and a 2" shank.  I use  the correct size shank because it is stronger, has far less play and less chance of bending the pin.  A spacer will float front to rear with the bending points 1/4" apart and will tend to enlarger the receiver holes as well.
 
lynnmor said:
Does the 3" receiver on Ford trucks have a 3/4" hole?  I have read that they do.  If that is the case, a 5/8" pin should not be used and the parts drilled for the 3/4" pin.

Anyway, there have been reports of bending pins when a spacer sleeve is used with a 2-1/2" receiver and a 2" shank.  I use  the correct size shank because it is stronger, has far less play and less chance of bending the pin.  A spacer will float front to rear with the bending points 1/4" apart and will tend to enlarger the receiver holes as well.

Using the correct size pin is a MUST NO EXCEPTIONS  without it you woukd have a ton of play on the ballmount and break the pin in very short order- yes the Ford Sd 2017 and up takes a 5/8 pin  And i always use a locking pin i have had kids mess around and almost lost atrailer and i did loss a set of brand new rock tamers after someone pulled the cotter pin and the ball mount and tamers fell out on the highway - lucky for me i had a 5th wheel attatched but the rock tamers were new and i think someone tried the steal them and got spooked


https://www.boltlock.com/find-your-lock

 
IN cases where the pin size varies.. The adapters I have used (And I had one) there was a sleeve for the pin as well (Well 2 of 'em) so you put sleeve one on the pin, shoved it through, put the other sleeve on and locked it in place (Hairpin flip bar or key lock).

The only problem I have ever had is with that blasted hairpin.. a cable (Breakaway) snagged it and pulled it off, the big pin came out and DISASTER.. I tested the safety cables.. oh. they worked.
 

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