Newbie ?inherited? Parents 1999 Pace Arrow Vision 36B

Welcome. Why don't you tell us the area you live in and maybe someone here can stop by and explain it all to you.

Welcome to the forum and the RV'ing lifestyle!    The issues you described may be discussed in other posts, if you use the "Search" feature to check out our extensive archive.  I'm sure you will get some suggestions in this thread too.  Also feel free to jump into any ongoing conversations too.

You'll want to trace the source of that pouring/leaking water and see where it's coming from.  Open all the storage compartments, etc. and track it down to give yourself a starting point.  It could be a frozen/busted pipe or connection (that can happen if the RV was stored in subzero temperatures and the plumbing system was not winterized), or maybe it's just a pipe that came loose and needs to be reattached.  Water comes out the faucets in two ways... (1) the water pump is turned on and liquid is drawn from the fresh water tank, or (2) when hooked up to "city water" the water pressure comes from that source, usually bypassing the fresh water tank (and no pump is needed).

The fridge could be a lot of things... when it's working "when the RV's engine is running" it is probably actually operating by burning propane from the on-board tank.  The other way "2-way" RV fridges can be powered is with shore power, such as household current (with an adapter) like you described, or full power from a campground source.  If your big power plug has 3 prongs, it is a 30-amp system.  If it has 4 prongs, it is a 50-amp system.  I'm guessing yours is 30.  And P.S. it is not 220 volts even though the plug looks kinda like the one on your laundry dryer in the house.  Completely different, and if you ever try to plug the RV into a 220v source... you'll fry the entire electrical system!

We can throw out all kinds of suggestions online, but I agree with Tom that it probably would be really helpful to have someone knowledgeable give the rig a detailed inspection and estimate of things that may need maintenance or repair.  Check your local area for any "mobile RV repair" services... those are usually independent guys that know their stuff, and won't charge an arm & leg like an RV dealership service center would. 

I'd also highly recommend checking the DOT date code on the tires.  Google or Youtube  "DOT tire code age" and you'll quickly learn how that is easily done.  Tires are often overlooked by inexperienced RV'ers, and they could be in need of replacement (based on age, not on outer appearance) which is not something you shouldn't delay if you plan to drive the RV any distance.  High-speed tire blowouts in a large motorhome are no fun, trust me!

If you plan to stick with RV'ing, you'll also need to change your username eventually!  ;D

This manual might help you get started.

It could be a frozen/busted pipe or connection (that can happen if the RV was stored in subzero temperatures and the plumbing system was not winterized),

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Oh my! I?m sure that?s it!  We live in a warm weather climate but about 6 weeks ago we had a very unusual cold spell and frozen pipes were an issue around our city.  It never dawned on us that the RV would have been affected.  Thank you! 

Can you tell me why our faucets worked before without turning on the water pump?  We didn?t even know it existed until this week. Lol. And, no, it wasn?t attached to city water.

Is that something we can fix or must it go to an RV repair shop?  The only one in our county is always running about 6 weeks behind schedule.

And thank you all for your replies. And thanks for manual link

The other way "2-way" RV fridges can be powered is with shore power, such as household current (with an adapter) like you described,

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Hmm...we thought we should be able to run the fridge using shore power/household current, but it?s not working that way.  I guess there must be a switch or something to ?tell? it to use shore power.  Hopefully that manual link will help. 

Modern RV refrigerators are powered by either propane or AC electricity (home style plug in power), but they also require DC battery power to run their control systems, if the RV's batteries are disconnected (many coaches have an DC disconnect switch) then the refrigerator will not operate.  The same holds true if the batteries are dead. 

My guess is the house deep cycle batteries are likely not being charged and are probably dead, and when the engine is running it is providing power to try to charge the batteries, which will temporarily power the control board in the refrigerator and let it run on propane (or in theory AC power if you are plugged in somewhere).  The coach should also have an onboard battery charger called a power converter, or possibly an inverter/charger that may have failed which let the house deep cycle batteries drain down and die.

We were all new to RVing once, and you've definitely come to the right place to get your questions answered. I'm not trying to discourage you from asking more questions, because that's what we're here for, but I think the best advice I could offer would be for you to hire someone from your local RV shop, and have them go over all the systems with you. I think it would shorten the learning curve considerably. There's nothing terribly complex about RV systems, but they are somewhat different than what's in your car or home.

Kev

NewbiesNeedHelp said:

We also don?t quite understand the fridge.  When the RV?s engine is running, the fridge gets cold, but when RV engine is off and we?re only plugged into shore power (just regular outlet home outdoor outlet not 220), the fridge doesn?t stay cold.

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The refrigerator uses a process called absorption cooling.  Heat is applied at one location to create cooling at another.  There should be two operating modes on the front panel switch - Auto and Gas.  Auto mode automatically switches between 120 volt electricity when it's present and gas when there is no electricity.

It sounds like the electric heating element is burned out so no heat is applied when you are plugged into electricity.  When you unplug, the refrigerator switches to gas mode and replaces the electric heat with a small flame.  Until you can get the electric element fixed, it's perfectly fine to use the refrigerator in Gas mode.  It uses very little propane.

The other thing to be aware of is the refrigerator has to be level to work properly.  Absorption cooling relies on convection and gravity to circulate the refrigerant.  If the RV is more than a few degrees off-level, the refrigerant can't get back to the boiler and it can run dry, damaging the cooling unit.

It's OK to run the refrigerator while you're travelling - the normal bouncing and vibration keeps everything flowing like it should.  But don't turn on the refrigerator if the RV is parked on a slope.

NewbiesNeedHelp said:

When we first took over the RV a couple of months ago, water did run out of the faucets.  Now, no water is coming out. We read that a water pump needs to be on (which we did NOT turn on before yet water did run out of the sinks, so that?s a mystery to us newbies.)

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Were you hooked up to water at the campsite?  If so, that's what provided water pressure to the faucets.  The pump is only turned on to provide water from the tank when you're not hooked up to outside water.

Although, it does sound like a water pipe froze and either cracked or popped off of a fitting.  This will leak no matter if you're using shore water from a hose or the water pump.

Can you tell me why our faucets worked before without turning on the water pump?

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If you didn't make much use of the faucets, perhaps just a quick test that they worked, then it could have been pressure left over from the last time the water pump was on, or perhaps you inadvertently turned it on a time or two, not knowing what that switch was.

On the water from the faucet issue, your coach may have been fitted with a water accumulator tank, this is a small pressurized water tank that balances out the flow of water from your water pump.  I installed one in my coach, mine has a 2 gallon water capacity (most often these are 1/2 to 1 gallon capacity), which gives me enough water to flush the toilet a couple of times during the night, wash hands, etc.  all without having to turn on the noisy water pump. 

Read what Isaac-1 wrote.  CHECK your batteries.  Fridge needs 12v.  JM2?    YMMV

Welcome to the RV Forum!  This is certainly the hard way to learn about RVing and I hope you find the help you need so you can begin to enjoy the Pace.  Do you have any idea when this RV was last used by your parents?  Obviously it runs or you wouldn't have been able to drive it, but knowing how long it's been unused might help us figure out some of the other things.  Just like us humans, RVs that sit for a long time get old and cranky and develop problems!

ArdraF

Kevin Means said:

We were all new to RVing once, and you've definitely come to the right place to get your questions answered. I'm not trying to discourage you from asking more questions, because that's what we're here for, but I think the best advice I could offer would be for you to hire someone from your local RV shop, and have them go over all the systems with you. I think it would shorten the learning curve considerably. There's nothing terribly complex about RV systems, but they are somewhat different than what's in your car or home.

Kev

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Totally agree with you.  Unfortunately, we live in a rural area and the nearest RV shop/repair is in the next county and they?re so backed-up busy that there?s a 6 week wait for them to even look at your rig.

ArdraF said:

Welcome to the RV Forum!  This is certainly the hard way to learn about RVing and I hope you find the help you need so you can begin to enjoy the Pace.  Do you have any idea when this RV was last used by your parents?  Obviously it runs or you wouldn't have been able to drive it, but knowing how long it's been unused might help us figure out some of the other things.  Just like us humans, RVs that sit for a long time get old and cranky and develop problems!

ArdraF

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It sat about 16 months.

NewbiesNeedHelp said:

Totally agree with you.  Unfortunately, we live in a rural area and the nearest RV shop/repair is in the next county and they?re so backed-up busy that there?s a 6 week wait for them to even look at your rig.

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That's what you will find with a lot of brick-and-mortar RV repair places, which is why we often recommend learning and tinkering yourself and/or going with the mobile RV mechanic.  Have you checked around for any of those guys in your area?  Check Google, Craigslist, or the phonebook (if you still have one of those ) or call a couple campgrounds in your area and see if they have anyone they recommend for on-site repairs.  There may be an "RV handyman" type somewhere close, that does good work but doesn't officially advertise.

Also if you tell us where "here" is we may know someone, or may even live near you

So sorry for the loss of your parents! If you really want to get into using the RV, get a manual printed out. Then, spend an afternoon (or 6) learning the functions of the MH. In doing so, it will help you diagnose where your water leak is coming from. If you/husband/wife are handy at home repairs, you may be able fix the water leak yourselves. You have an opportunity to learn a new lifestyle whether you just vacation or eventually go full time. Have fun and don't stress out! 

x2 on the mobile mechanic.  Check craigslist and/or a local campground to try to find one.  That's all I use.  My guy is responsive, knows what he is doing, and is relatively reasonably priced.

It seems like whenever we have a question, the manual refers to the Owners Information Package for detailed info....and we don?t have that. 

When we left today, we easily retracted the jacks.  We had the jacks down and sliders out while cleaning up for the trip.  And we easily turned on the power and retracted.  Now that we?re at our destination, the on/off switch for the jacks is not going on for us to put down the jacks.  When we look at the manual, it refers us to the Owners Information Package, which again, we dont? have.

Why would suddenly the jacks? on/off button not work (it worked 2 hours ago....lol).