Repairing my rubber roof

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RTsRV

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 25, 2014
Posts
82
Location
Buckingham, PA
An area of about 15 sq. ft. of my rubber roof, at the lead edge, ballooned while driving.  There are no tears in the rubber and I'd like to pull it up and re-glue it.  I know there is a recommended glue you can purchase to re-glue RV roofs but I have a lot of upholstery glue (basically rubber cement or contact cement) and wonder if that would be OK to use.
While I know that would work to glue it down, I'm not sure if that would present a problem to remove if the roof ever had to be completely replaced.  Has anybody had any experience with this, or it there a good reason to use the RV glue?

RTsRV
 
RTsRV said:
upholstery glue , or it there a good reason to use the RV glue? RTsRV

I would stick with RV glue, or certainly a product made for outdoor environments.  Upholstery glue, I'm guessing has no UV protection, etc.  A roof, and leaks, not a great place to try and save a dollar. 
 
A 2001 Damon will have an EPDM rubber roof. I'd stick with an adhesive that is specifically compatible with EPDM rubber, but it doesn't have to say "RV" on it.  You can Google 'EPDM adhesive' and find lots of sources.

Here's one that specifically states compatibility with Dicor and Alpha brands of EPDM membrane, and those are the two brands used for RV roofing.

https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-8010-Alpha-Water-Based-Universal/dp/B016E02FCA/
 
sorry, can't add to help
but a side question fro you....
how did you find out that it was ballooning up? 
I ask because I've seen a few rigs on the highway over the years with it happening.  Obviously can't be seen while driving, and I assume they usually fall back relatively flt when stopped.  I've trued to signal folks but usually we are closing at 100MPH+ and in opposite directions....  Wishing I could help them by letting them know.
 
While I was driving about 70 mph, I heard a "slapping" on the roof directly above the driver's seat.  I slowed down and pulled into a rest stop and climbed up the ladder to the roof.  The rubber sheeting at the front of the roof looked wrinkled and a little stretched but without any rips or tears.  I had some white Gorilla tape with me and ran a few bands across the top from side to side to help prevent more ballooning.  I also slowed to no more than 60 mph and the slapping mostly stopped.  I got a price of around $7K to replace the entire roof on an RV worth about $20k.  So, without any rips or tears, I'd like to pull up the separated section, re-stretch the rubber and re-seal what I have.  The area is maybe 20 sq. ft. or less.
I have a lot of auto/RV repair experience so this doesn't intimidate me.  I just wish I didn't have to do it.  You know what I mean.

RTsRV
 
DO you have comprehensive insurance?

Maybe a tree branch overhead pulled the roof away from the frame and what you have is an insurance claim.
 
I got a price of around $7K to replace the entire roof on an RV worth about $20k.

YIKES! That's robbery!  It's about a two day job for a tech and a helper, so at $100/hour that's $3200 labor and maybe another $600 for materials. That assumes no rot problems in the substrate, of course. I see reports of $5000 quotes here from time to time, so I guess it's a big money-maker for RV shops.
 
DearMissMermaid said:
DO you have comprehensive insurance?

Maybe a tree branch overhead pulled the roof away from the frame and what you have is an insurance claim.

Sounds like insurance fraud to me. Just sayin'
 
Gary RV_Wizard...
I have to agree with you that price is too high.  But along with the price, I was told they had about a 2 - 3 month backlog and I would have to "get in line".  I decided to pass and will get to it as soon as the weather warms up.  My first use this year will be a trip to the Indy race.  That is about a 12 hour trip one way.
I also found out I need to replace the air bags inside the front coils springs.  I'm going to let my guys at the local repair shop do that job and give it this year's state inspection while they are at it.  They have the tools and experience.  I would have to do that in the driveway and lay on my back in gravel.  At least the roof lets me stand up once in a while.  LOL

RTsRV
 
Plenty of videos on youtube of people replacing their EPDM roofs. If you have a helper it is not a hard job. A weekend and $700 will get it done or supervise your grandson and his freind, (if you have one), and let them split $500. Pretty easy work if you are reasonably able bodied.
 
A simple fix is to slit the bubble open, spread some EPDM-compatible adhesive and smooth it back down. Then cover the slit seam with lap sealant or Eternabond-type tape.  You mentioned a "stretched" membrane, but usually that isn't much problem.  Besides, you have little to lose by trying - just the cost of the adhesive ad a few hours labor.
 
Look at my summary of replacing our rubber roof, (also found in the forum?s library)
http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/RV_re-roof.pdf

We did a lot of fixes before we replaced the entire roof.  The fixes are very similar to patching a bicycle tube.
 
Just an update...
I finally had some nice, warmer weather and time to climb up on the roof and get to the repair.
Apparently the previous owner had some work done and must have had some leakage along the front of the roof where the rubber meets the front fiberglass cap.  (I'm calling the roof "rubber" to simplify things knowing I'm technically not correct so please forgive me.)  There was a LOT of caulk just globbed across the hold-down strip.  I spent a lot of time scraping that off and cleaning any excess.  When I took the screws out of that hold-down strip, the screws across the drivers side half were not securing the fiberglass to the plywood.  That left a gap up to 3/8" and I'm sure led to the lifting of the rubber from the wood.  That started it all.  The vacuum caused by the wind flowing over the top lifted the rubber.  I was able to re-secure the rubber to the roof and across the front under the hold-down strip.  There appeared to be double sided tape under the rubber, at the rear of the fiberglass front cap.  I used an outdoor double sided tape there.  When I fastened the hold-down strip, I used a little larger screws to get them to hold in the wood.  The original screws were very small in diameter and were countersink head.  I went with button head screws that required me to drill the holes only slightly larger.  I was prepared to add more screws if they still didn't hold but didn't need to.  They cinched up fine.  After securing the hold-down strips, I trimmed any excess rubber across the front and then applied a fillet bead of caulk to both edges of the hold-down strip.
Everything looks "good-to-go".  The test will come when I travel for an extended time at highway speed and encounter any heavy rain.  But I feel good about the present outcome.
This wasn't really difficult, but never having done this work before, I was a little apprehensive.  Turns out it wasn't too bad.
One really good tip.  Wear sunglasses!  The glare off the white roof is harsh!
My thanks to those who responded with tips and advise.

RTsRV
 
Rene T...
No, I used a latex exterior caulk and did not apply a massive amount like the last guy did.  I smoothed in a nice fillet.  The worst that could happen is I messed up and have to do it over.  But I feel it will survive and keep the roof on and keep me dry.

RTsRV
 
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