Battery Monitor

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jje1960

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Hey all.  I just purchased a battery monitor and getting ready to install.  It's a Victron 712.  I believe I have this planned correctly.  Battery side of the shunt goes through my battery disconnect switch to the end of my Negative side of the battery bank.  All other loads go to the load side of the shunt, to include solar controllers, inverter and chassis ground.  The shunt power directly to the beginning of the positive side of the battery bank, the utp cable to the monitor itself.  Anyone see any problem with how I have this planned?
 

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Probably works, but hard to follow. The usual way to connect a shunt is to remove the negative cable from ground either at the battery post or the frame connection and install the shunt between the post/frame and the battery cable. There should then be two wires coming from either end of the shunt to the display/control box.

Alternately remove the positive cable and connect between the post and the cable (I think that is what you've shown). In this case there should be no other connections to the positive post.

Ernie
 
It looks wrong to me. It looks like you're shorting out the battery with the shunt. A shunt is a very small resistance capable of carrying a large amount of current.  So basically you're putting the shunt between the positive and negative terminals of your battery bank.  What you should do is connect one end of the shunt to the negative battery post. The other end of the shunt should be connected to the chassis ground, where all the other grounds are connect. In other words, the shunt should be connected in series with the battery ground.  You should leave the positive side of the battery bank connections alone.
 
Ernie n Tara said:
Probably works, but hard to follow. The usual way to connect a shunt is to remove the negative cable from ground either at the battery post or the frame connection and install the shunt between the post/frame and the battery cable. There should then be two wires coming from either end of the shunt to the display/control box.

Alternately remove the positive cable and connect between the post and the cable (I think that is what you've shown). In this case there should be no other connections to the positive post.

Ernie
  The instructions stated the only connection on the Batt side of the shunt is to the Neg of the Battery bank, that's what I have, however it may be hard to follow due to having a Battery cutoff switch in circuit as well.  If you follow the Neg from Battery bank you will see it ends in the only connection on the shunt Batt terminal.  There is only one wire (UTP) from the shunt to the monitor itself, this is a Victron 712.  The shunt get's power from a single + wire not/not connected to either terminal on the shunt but to the control board in the center next to the UTP.
 
Don C said:
I agree with ChasA.

Diagram shows that you have four 12 volt batteries in parallel. Is that correct?
Yes, there is four AGM batteries in parallel.  There is no shorting of the battery bank.
 
ChasA said:
It looks wrong to me. It looks like you're shorting out the battery with the shunt. A shunt is a very small resistance capable of carrying a large amount of current.  So basically you're putting the shunt between the positive and negative terminals of your battery bank.  What you should do is connect one end of the shunt to the negative battery post. The other end of the shunt should be connected to the chassis ground, where all the other grounds are connect. In other words, the shunt should be connected in series with the battery ground.  You should leave the positive side of the battery bank connections alone.
  The only connection from the shunt to the positive is for the single positive control wire that is required to the shunt control, note this is not/not to either terminals of the shunt, but to the control board on the shunt.  This video and the instructions for the Victron is what I've used for a guide.  Just want to make sure I'm on track prior to installing it.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKCB4oBqums
 
jje1960 said:
Hey all.  I just purchased a battery monitor and getting ready to install.  It's a Victron 712.  I believe I have this planned correctly.  Battery side of the shunt goes through my battery disconnect switch to the end of my Negative side of the battery bank.  All other loads go to the load side of the shunt, to include solar controllers, inverter and chassis ground.  The shunt power directly to the beginning of the positive side of the battery bank, the utp cable to the monitor itself.  Anyone see any problem with how I have this planned?


looks like you have the basic idea, however my professional eyes are seeing red flags all over..
based on what you have drawn there are a few safety issues I will comment on.

1. each individual circuit you supply from the positive terminal should have a fuse, this includes the solar cc. if
any of those circuits has a short you want a fuse to blow, not your cables and equipment burst into flames.

2. if that battery capacity is really 220Ah then a 2kw inverter is a really bad idea, at full load you will draw
close to 190 Amps, that's close to 1C and a good way to destroy battery life real fast.

3. FOUR batteries in parallel is also a great way to shorten life, there are easier ways to achieve capacity without resorting to parallel strings.

4. on a better note, Victron is a good choice, it's good gear..

 
solarman said:
looks like you have the basic idea, however my professional eyes are seeing red flags all over..
based on what you have drawn there are a few safety issues I will comment on.

1. each individual circuit you supply from the positive terminal should have a fuse, this includes the solar cc. if
any of those circuits has a short you want a fuse to blow, not your cables and equipment burst into flames.

2. if that battery capacity is really 220Ah then a 2kw inverter is a really bad idea, at full load you will draw
close to 190 Amps, that's close to 1C and a good way to destroy battery life real fast.

3. FOUR batteries in parallel is also a great way to shorten life, there are easier ways to achieve capacity without resorting to parallel strings.

4. on a better note, Victron is a good choice, it's good gear..
Many thanks for reply, it's very much appreciated.  Let me address your points.  Agree with circuit protection, the charge controllers do have inline fuses, as shown in the layout the inverter is fuzed.  I do have 220ah with 2kw inverter, we are mindful of this and this is main reason for purchasing the 712.  Very much agree with point 3, however that's what we have at this point, they are no maintenance AGM's and I've been super happy with them for the past two years vs in series 6V, which would have provided much greater ah, however needed maintenance.  The Victron arrived, will install this weekend.  I'll look at a better battery bank solution when the batteries need replacing.  Again, really appreciate your (and the other) feedback!
 
no problem,  if you need advice or second opinion on solar or batteries then pm me, i'm more than happy to help.
I design remote offgrid oilfield/RF/radio/telecom solar systems for a living..
 
Installed the Victron 712 today, went perfectly with the diagram I laid out.  Anyone thinking of one of these will be very happy.  With the 712, no need to run even the control utp wire into the cabin!  I mounted the unit in the battery bay right near the shunt and the blue tooth connects perfectly inside the cabin (or anywhere outside near the RV) using my iphone or ipad.  I was pleasantly surprised that it even connected while i was in my garage about 40' from the 5th wheel.  Love the product.  Now will be much more confident while running the inverter on the dry and nearing the 50% SOC mark.
 
Solarman:




3. FOUR batteries in parallel is also a great way to shorten life, there are easier ways to achieve capacity without resorting to parallel strings.


Please explain. I would love to know how to increase capacity without running batteries in parallel. It seems to me there can be equalisation issues if you parallel a number of them, but I just don't remember the details.


Thanks
 
Frank B said:
Solarman:




3. FOUR batteries in parallel is also a great way to shorten life, there are easier ways to achieve capacity without resorting to parallel strings.


Please explain. I would love to know how to increase capacity without running batteries in parallel. It seems to me there can be equalisation issues if you parallel a number of them, but I just don't remember the details.


Thanks


Simply put, the main issues arise from cable,connection and internal impedance, if we eliminate cabling and terminal contact
variances ( difficult but achievable ) we are left with internal impedance ( apparent resistance of the battery ).

Now, a battery with a higher impedance will, over time, result in less charge current to that battery, thus resulting in a lower average
SOC ( state of charge ), this has the effect of aging the battery and increasing its internal impedance. over many cycles the effect becomes more pronounced. when the battery pack is idle ( minimal load ) other batteries in the string of higher SOC will discharge into the lower SOC battery and self equalize the voltages, but, this effectively makes the whole set equal to the worst battery in the pack.

this just gets worse as we add more batteries to the string, the net result is shorter lifespan and capacity due to all the unequal current flows.

these effects can be mitigated somewhat by periodically charging with an equalizing charge for an extended period, but as we know, equalizing causes more plate corrosion and reduces life.. !! we only equalize to reduce sulphation and electrolyte stratification.

the above would be the case for an off grid solar system that is cycled DAILY to 20% or so DOD with parallel strings.

RV use is a bit different than off grid and will not suffer these effects as much, but it's still something to be aware of.
this is why most professionals ( myself included ) grimace at the thought of parallel strings as our main design goals are
for longevity and reliability.

other issues include cell shorts, imagine what happens when one cell shorts in a parallel bank.. the other batteries discharge into the
failed battery and that's going to give you a very bad hair day with fire, smoke and hot acid !!!

Personally i would only advocate two parallel strings MAX and have a fuse between banks.


On to your next question.. how do we get capacity without paralleling ?

quite simple, batteries and cells come in 2,4,6,8 and 12 Volts
systems typically need 12, 24, 36 or 48 Volts

The key here is we first select the lowest voltage battery of the required Ah CAPACITY and connect as many of these in SERIES
to achieve the target VOLTAGE

ex: we need 225 Ah at 12 Volts

we could use 2 Volts * 6 or 4 Volts * 3 or 6 Volts * 2 or 12 Volts * 1
the selection would be governed by intended use, space and cost considerations.

one thing to note with batteries, as we go up in capacity, the voltage goes down.
it is far easier to make a 2 Volt 1000 Ah cell than a 12 Volt 1000 Ah battery.

if you take a look at the Trojan or Rolls website you will see cells of capacity from 100 Ah to 1300 Ah
usually in 2 Volts. in the off grid arena we use 2 Volt cells almost all the time mainly due to high capacity needs.

for solar, panel wattage tends to define the battery voltage and charge controller needs.


In the RV world, I think the main issue with battery selection is one of availability,cost and size
plus the preconception that because the RV is 12 Volts, one must use a 12 Volt battery..









 
Solarman:

OK, so, if I understand this correctly, to gain capacity, one is better off with one honkin' huge commercial grade high Ah battery (like from a fork lift) rather than multiple GC-2's in parallel strings.  If so, then I get that.

As you mention, however, RV applications don't always allow for something like that.  That is why I wondered what an alternative would be.

Thanks for the clarification.  I appreciate it.

Frank.
 
I also wondered about the justification of not paralleling batteries. Thank you for the lesson. :))
 
solarman said:
Personally i would only advocate two parallel strings MAX and have a fuse between banks.

I see your point in isolating the two parallel banks in the case of a short on one of the batteries.

Thanks for your expertise.
 
Frank B said:
Solarman:

OK, so, if I understand this correctly, to gain capacity, one is better off with one honkin' huge commercial grade high Ah battery (like from a fork lift) rather than multiple GC-2's in parallel strings.  If so, then I get that.

As you mention, however, RV applications don't always allow for something like that.  That is why I wondered what an alternative would be.

Thanks for the clarification.  I appreciate it.

Frank.

"Honkin" battery.. LOL

well not quite, but I get your point.

battery technology is still rather primitive and power density is still low hence the massive
size of these things.. weight is also an issue.. having eight 150 lb batteries in your rig is no fun
to manage.

I think the best way is to limit our demands and camp with a more minimal approach.
however that's not easy for some and therefore large arrays and big batteries come with a price

I see from your sig that you have 1200 Watts of panels..  from that I will assume you boondock a lot
like me or perhaps you are full time ? you need power for at least 4 days before you get the generator out..

so based on that I will approximate your battery size, using common design rules.
I don't know what you have, but just for fun I will estimate your capacity.

here are some figures based on voltage

1200 / 12 V = 100 A
1200 / 24 V = 50 A
1200 / 48 V = 25 A

battery charge should between C/8 to C/12 so the Ah capacity range here is:

12 V = 100A * 8 = 800 Ah      or 9600 kWh
12 V = 100A * 12 = 1200 Ah  or 14 kWh

for 24 V = 400 to 600 Ah
for 48 V = 200 to 300 Ah

some points here:

100 A is too big by normal design rules and would need a very expensive charge controller or controllers.
preferred methods would push us to use 24 or 48 Volts and cheaper wiring/controller etc..
battery voltage is based on panel watts for example:

up to 600 watts use 12 V or higher
600 to 2000 watts use 24 V or higher
anything larger use 48 V


I am guessing you are on 12 V so you have to have at least 800 Ah of capacity
but I could be wrong.. LOL 800 Ah is not doable in 12 V so you will need parallel
strings..  probably 2S4P so 2 strings of 4 GC2's in parallel ?
eight GC2's at $100 each = $800 plus cabling
and they weigh approx 65lbs each, so  520 lbs total

battery pack is 9.6 kWh in size


If I were to recommend batteries, I would suggest no bigger than a Honking Trojan L16 format
those are 6 Volts and are approx 420 Ah so at 24 Volts you would need four of them in series
they are approx $250 each and weigh about 100lb each,  so $1000 and 400lbs
also they have a real good warranty.. note that the preferred design is 150 lbs lighter !

battery pack is 10 kWh in size


if that's too heavy then my next choice would be lithium..

LFP are approx one quarter the weight but at least three times the cost !

if you have deep pockets then you could use large capacity prismatic cells, the initial outlay
is higher, but the long term ownership cost per watt is on par..
I will state this is not for a novice, there are rules that must be followed
in order not to destroy these cells and your RV, having said that you could do 24 V or 48 V with LFP
at any capacity you like..and unlike FLA, LFP can run parallel without issue, in fact the design method
is to choose capacity first then voltage

also with LFP you can discharge to a lower SOC, 20% to 90% is the range
so you get 70% useable capacity instead of 50% that's 20% more than FLA..

at 12V and 800Ah we get 9.6 kWh and you use 50% of that so 4.8 kWh useable

4.8 kWh / 0.7 = approx 6.8 kWh total for LFP

at 12 V is 566 Ah we could use 600 Ah cells
at 24 V is 283 Ah we could use 300 Ah cells
at 48 V is 141 Ah we could use 160 Ah cells

LFP typically run at $1.25 per Ah so you are in the range of $3200 !!

ok, longer post than anticipated, if you need more info, pm me
and i'll be glad to answer any questions..















 
Solarman:

Whew!  :eek:

I have but 6 GC-2's for weight considerations.  I went 'solar heavy' for that size battery  for a couple of reasons:

[list type=decimal]
[*]Cost of panels is relatively low compared to total cost of the install, and I had the room.  4 panels or 6?  Yeah, lets go for 6.  ;D  And lets use 5" ingot residential 205 watt panels.  Got the room, and their price/watt looked really good.
[*]I don't ever want to use a generator again, and some days we get cloud.  I want enough 'overkill' that I can keep my batteries charged even on cloudy days.  In fact, I typically get 20 to 25 amps in the rain.
[/list]My FM-80 controller is also overkill for the battery bank I have, but one day I may go Lithium.  I also bought a 1 ton truck to pull our last 4500 lb trailer.  Overkill then.  Just about right for our 11K 30' Artic Fox.  Future proofing.

So, you can see my overall philosophy.  And, yes, we boondock as much as we can.

I just LOVE our system.  Our first real outing was this past winter, and the system did even better than expected.  We used the microwave freely, the electric toaster every morning, my wife took a waffle iron, and I took our hot air corn popper just for a lark.  Besides watching Netflix in the evenings, and running two computers liberally.  Some times I just left them running as we had 'power to burn'.  Batteries never got below about 60%, and by 1 PM the next day they were already in float.  One day the 'noise' of the flame in the propane fridge bothered me (it was that quiet where we were), so I switched the fridge to AC and let the inverter run it the rest of the afternoon.  Electrical system didn't even blink.  Batteries were already full, and just the sun on the panels ran the fridge just fine.

Yeah, don't ever want to use a generator again.  ;D

Frank.

 
solarman said:
LFP are approx one quarter the weight but at least three times the cost !


I'd planned on going with Lithium but I found the cost difference of 3 x 200Ah (600Ah) Victron LiPo to be 6 times more than 8x235Ah (940Ah) Crown FLA 6V.

The 36 month Victron warranty didn't provide any assurance of a payback from Lithium.




   
 
I have but 6 GC-2's for weight considerations.

Frank.

you are at C/6 with that setup, a little on the high side but better high than low..

and yes.. lead is heavy !! 65*6=390lbs for 8100 Wh

 

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