Water Issues

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grashley

grashley

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Joined
May 7, 2015
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Location
Western Kentucky
I guess it's my turn for a couple novice questions.  We FINALLY got some warmer weather so I could play with the camper.

1.  With hose connected to the house and to the pressure reg, then to the camper, the pressure reg reads -0- pressure and flow in the camper is present - at about 1 QUART per minute.  Turns out the FACTORY SETTING  of 45 psi was about 40 psi optimistic!  ($35 Camco adjustable brass reg with pressure meter)  Now I have 4+ gal / min.

2.  Water Heater  Since I now have it filled, I turned on the electric heater.  Per the EMS, there was a total 2 Amp draw in the camper.  No surprise, half hour later, I had no hot water.  Turn off electric switch, turn EFI gas switch ON.  Red Fault lights immediately.  Turn on stove burners - it did take a bit to get it lit and steady.  With burners still on, try gas switch to water heater again.  Same result.  Multiple attempts.

I assume my electric element is toast.  What do I do with the gas side?
 
Is your water heater an Atwood or Suburban? If Suburban, open the outside cover and look at the lower corner. There should be a small rocker switch there. Usually hidden behind the gas piping.
 
Atwood Water Heaters.. THe winterizing instructrions instruct you to remove the RED wire from the ECO terminal.
This sets the fault light if you try to use it. electric or gas.

That Camco Watter Pressure Regulator.. is a regulator but it is also a flow restrictor

Valterra adjustable or a WATTS or Zurin "Whole house" Mine are 3/4" works great.

 
Preacher!  You know better than to post a question like that without heater make & model!

I would not jump to the conclusion that the element is bad - it's not a common failure despite the frequency it gets mentioned here. First check the power to the element and to the heater itself. There will be switches and a circuit breaker in the path, often more than one.

Gas mode: Does the burner attempt to ignite?  Have somebody flip the gas switch on while you observe outside. And verify the outside ECO and thermostat wire connections that John described.
 
Gary,  of course you are right!  Cook the noodle.  I will take my lashes!

It is a Suburban Model SW12DEL.

We have warm but windy today.  I will check the suggestions shortly!
 
Here's a link to your manual:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/691773/Suburban-Sw6del.html#product-SW12DEL
 
Mr. Goat,

The switch on the heater was, indeed OFF!  Now it is ON and gas works great!!!  Not so lucky on the electric side.  Breaker is on.  EMS shows 0 Amps on L2, which includes the water heater.  Will check voltage and ohms on the element tomorrow.
 
I don't understand that. The switch I posted about is for 120 volt operation only. It has nothing to do with the operation on propane. ( and no more MR goat! :)) Goat is just fine 8)
 
Gary, I had the manual downloaded, but the self help piece was great!

Goat, The circuit diagrams for gas do NOT include the switch (like you said), but SOME instructions say turn on.  All I know is when I turned on the 120V power switch behind the WH door, it worked!  I do not question success!

I do have 120V at the electric element.  I read open when measuring ohms across the element.  With all the switches on and power to the element, the EMS shows 0 Amp draw on line 2, which includes the WH.  L1 had 1A draw.  I STRONGLY suspect the element is toast.
 
If the element read open, your suspicions are correct. Looks like a trip to Home Depot or Lowe's is in order.
 
If you happen to be in the area of Flint. MI.. Have I got a deal on a 1500 watt element, New or used.

Else. here is a suggestion

Get a 1500 Watt 240 volt element. You read that right 240
when fed 120 volt this becomes a 375 Watt Element

Why?  Since I replaced my 1500 wiht a 375 I've not tripped a 30 amp park breaker  I went from 12.4 amps to a bit over 3 amps for the water heater

Sure. takes longer to heat the water.. but it still gets as hot, and if I need faster the Propane works.
 
If it was winterized, did someone remove the element and replace it with the drain plug?

In that case, remove the plug and screw in the element.
 
DearMissMermaid said:
If it was winterized, did someone remove the element and replace it with the drain plug?

In that case, remove the plug and screw in the element.
Click to expand...

The thread size on the element is MUCH bigger than the drain plug.
Just pull out the element and see if the copper case is split.
 
Miss Mermaid was thinking of the HOTT Rod device used to convert otherwise gas only water heaters to gas/electric.. I've installed one of those..

I was talking of the regular full size element same as Rene when I recommended the 240 volt element

The Hott Rod is already "Downsized" heat wise.
 
SUCCESS!!!

I replaced the electric element.  It did not show any obvious fault, but I put the new one in, anyway.  Put it back together, turned it on and had 11A draw on L2!!  45 Minutes later, almost hot water!  With a bit more time, it will be hot!  I have not tested the gas side yet, but I do not anticipate any issues.

Thanks all for your help.

John, I saw your note after I bought the new element.
 
grashley said:
SUCCESS!!!

I replaced the electric element.  It did not show any obvious fault, but I put the new one in, anyway.  Put it back together, turned it on and had 11A draw on L2!!  45 Minutes later, almost hot water!  With a bit more time, it will be hot!  I have not tested the gas side yet, but I do not anticipate any issues.

Thanks all for your help.

John, I saw your note after I bought the new element.
Click to expand...

Carefully attach some wires to the old element, stick it in a cup of water and plug it in. It should start bubbling in 5 seconds if it's good.
 
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