North to Alaska

Keep 'em coming.  This is a great!  It sure makes Tim and I want to take off. 

Our motorhoming for this year is a bit restricted as we moved out of the house and are meeting with the builder on the new one.  I'm hoping next year we can make it to Alaska.  Of course there is also, the East coast and Eastern Canada that we'd like to get it....then there's Florida, Texas, etc etc. that we want to get to.

Marsha~

marsha:

We start year 3 next month and we haven't figurd out how to slow down yet. :

It's been one great vacation!

And aren't we lucky to be able to do such things! 

ArdraF

ArdraF said:

And aren't we lucky to be able to do such things! 

ArdraF

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You bet!

Jeff and Sue,
I'm sorry that you did not see any bear in Haines.  Haines is the place Russ found his big marble bear.  I guess you are a bit early.  I am dizzy reading your log as you are going backwards from the route we traveled.  Once again your  log gives me information I never knew despite having "been there" just a year ago.  I do see more snow on mountains and a bluer sky than when we were there.

Betty

The bears aren't out until the Salmon arrive, and it may be a bit early for that.  We even got video of a bear at Haines when we followed him up the shore for nearly a mile.

Betty, did you see any blue sky up there?

Jeff

I'm sorry you didn't see any bears in Haines...It was one of our best bear viewing sites....of course we were there the end of Aug. & had no blue sky.

Betty Brewer said:

Jeff and Sue,
I'm sorry that you did not see any bear in Haines.  Haines is the place Russ found his big marble bear.  I guess you are a bit early.  I am dizzy reading your log as you are going backwards from the route we traveled.  Once again your  log gives me information I never knew despite having "been there" just a year ago.  I do see more snow on mountains and a bluer sky than when we were there.

Betty

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Betty:

We have had great luck with the weather. The only time it seems to rain is when we have construction ahead while driving! The CRV got plastered again today; not as bad as the trip into Skagway but still muddy. We are enjoying another sunny evening parked on the shores of Lake Kluane north of Haines Junction.

As for wildlife 1 bear, 1 moose, a few sheep, and 2 buffalo.  We drove up through the eagle sanctuary north of Haines today without seeing ONE eagle although we did see several in Haines. ??? It's a good thing we have made lots of stops at the natural history museums and seen the stuffed variety of all the wildlife up here.

Day 20 Headed to Tok

We left Haines this morning with some regret. It has been a wonderful visit but we have reservations on the ferry out of Valdez for Whittier early Monday morning and want enough time to enjoy the drive to Valdez. That is the last reservation we have for this trip so we will travel or stay as the whim strikes after this. It did work out well as the weekly cruise ship visit started this morning so we missed the crowds!

Leaving Haines we followed the Chilkat River north through the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. The drive winds alongside the river for 25 miles or so and then starts to slowly climb into the glaciers of the Coastal Mountain Range. At 39 miles we crossed the border into Canada again and continued climbing up to Chilkat Pass in British Columbia where we stopped for lunch at a rest area with another magnificent view. After passing into Yukon Terrirtory again we passed through the Kluane National Park which is a large preserve of Grizzlies (didn?t see any) and down into Haines Junction where we rejoined the Alaska Highway.

As we started checking the map and Milepost for campgrounds we started running into rain showers and muddy construction sections of the road. While it was not as bad as going into Skagway last week Jeff has sworn off washing vehicles until we get to Valdez!
There is a major widening and paving project along the west shore of Lake Kluane, the largest lake in Yukon, for 20 miles or so that really was messy.

We finally settled on a site with a great view of the lake at the Burwash Landing Lodge & RV Park. After arriving we went in search of burl wood carvings, a favorite of Sue and our SIL Dan, visited another display of local wildlife, and then returned to the lodge for dinner. The view was to write home about, the food wasn?t. We are now sitting in the m/h looking out over the lake and enjoying a quiet evening at home.

Tomorrow it is on to TOK, Alaska where we leave the Alaska Highway until we head back to the lower 48.

Love the Monument

Happy Solstice, Jeff and Sue,

Today you are on top of the mountain. Your all-night parties can become longer again.

In your neck of the woods (Haines, AK) the sun rose at 3:46 am local time and it disappered at 10:21 pm. That's a long time to stay awake.

  Here in Florida it is dark at 8:30 pm... my bedtime 

Really enjoy reading your reports and viewing all those great pix. Having lived in B.C. north for a good number of years, your early trip reports brought back nice memories. Not much fun driving RVs there in the 50's. The paved roads stopped at Williams Lake,BC. Passage from Whistler to Lilloet was non-existant, except for maybe horse or mule trains.  The only way north from Vancouver was through the Fraser Canyon, with wooden trestle bridges hanging from the side of mountain cliffs, in areas.

Bon voyage on your trip back.


carson FL 80.5F

Day 21 Bouncing Through the Yukon

The highway up until now had been better than we had imagined based on our friends' descriptions of their trips up here. Well today we encountered the other road conditions!

Almost as soon as we departed Burwash Landings this morning we started running into marked and unmarked frost heaves and pavement breakups. As soon as we would get back up to 45mph another unmarked frost heave would throw the m/h into the air so the only option was to slow down to 30-35mph and be ready to slow down even more when bad road appeared. For the first 40 miles or so the road had dissipated to horrible conditions. We then came onto two long ?construction? projects where the gravel surface had been in place so long that it had turned into a washboard with plenty of loose gravel and rocks to be thrown by trucks traveling at high speed coming from the opposite direction.

So far we have one small scratch (no chip) in the m/h windshield from a truck-thrown rock today and no damage to the CRV or the m/h body so it has worked out fine. Jeff installed a clear film shield on the front of the motorhome before leaving Washington and it seems to be doing a good job.

We did get to to see a bear today that stuck around long enough to get some photos! It was starting across the road when we came over the hill so we were able to slow down as he kept going. It finally turned around and looked at us as we came to a stop and then lumbered off into the woods. A few White Swans swimming in a small lake were the only other wildlife today.
It took us three hours to reach the Alaska border and we were ready to get back onto good old USofA highways even though they too had frost heaves. After crossing the customs checkpoint we were on roads with many repairs that had obviously had been made this Spring and made the road passable at the posted speed limit of 55mph.

We are spending a couple of days at the Gateway Salmon Bake RV Park in Tok through Friday morning. Went to their "Bake' tonight and it was wonderful! Sue had Copper River red salmon and Jeff had halibut that was perfectly grilled, far superior to MukLuk Annie's food. We may have to go back again tomorrow night. The young couple who run the park are leasing it from his dad who owns Fast Eddie's next door that is also supposed to have good food.

It is the 21st of June and Equinox is today. Here in Tok it is 11:15PM and the sun has finally set but it is still a bright beautiful day out there! It takes some getting used to. Friday morning we head to Valdez via the Tok cutoff to Anchorage as far as Glennallen and then down through the Copper River Canyon to Valdez.

I always look forward every night reading your journal and passing time plotting your campground location on my mapping software.

As far as Tok Cutoff, Lorna mention last year of a 2006 earthquake after checking the Tok Visitor Center. The Brewer?s and Russ elected to take the Richardson Highway to Delta Junction avoiding Tok Cutoff on the return trip. I hope someone can give you the current condition of the unpaved road along Tok Cutoff.

From last year Alaskan journal on Tok Cutoff:
Betty detour to avoid Tok Cutoff
Lorna's comment on Tok Cutoff

vlady:

Thanks.

The first 60 miles of the cutoff was paved last year leaving a bridge and a short section of the highway still under construction so it had improved quite a bit since the gang went through last year. It also cuts our mileage over 50% since we are turning off at Glennallen to head to Valdez.

The stretch of highway down to Destruction Bay was one of the worst roads we were on last year.  It sounds like it isn't any better this year.

I see they still haven't put up the Free WiFi sign at the Gateway Salmon Bake.  But with your front row site, you don't really need it.  That was one of my favorite campgrounds, the people there were very nice.

Did you get your free fudge?

Enjoy the trip to Valdez, it's a beautiful trip over the pass.  Be sure to stop and see the several large waterfalls on the way.

Ned said:

The stretch of highway down to Destruction Bay was one of the worst roads we were on last year.  It sounds like it isn't any better this year.

I see they still haven't put up the Free WiFi sign at the Gateway Salmon Bake.  But with your front row site, you don't really need it.  That was one of my favorite campgrounds, the people there were very nice.

Did you get your free fudge?

Enjoy the trip to Valdez, it's a beautiful trip over the pass.  Be sure to stop and see the several large waterfalls on the way.

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Thanks Ned.

Where did you stay in Valdez, Sea-Otter or Bear Claw?

We stayed at Bear Paw Adult park and got a site facing the harbor with a hole in the trees for the satellite.  They do have free WiFi, however.

The Totem Inn in Valdez has good food, especially for breakfast.

Good morning Jeff and welcome to the RV Forum OnStar informal free service. I see and you want information on Valdez RV campground. Sure we can help you?hehehehehe !

Eagle?s Rest RV Park 800-553-7275 $38 Free RV wash (N61.130896?, W146.346039?)
Bear Paw RV Park 907-835-2530 (N61.126363?, W146.350094?)
Sea Otter Campground $27 waterfront 20amp Elec. (N61.123402?, W146.350794?)

Additional information of Sea Otter Campground by Betty Brewer Alaska 2006 trip:
Sea Otter Campground $22 20amp Elec
Waterfront site #40 and #41 $27

Bear Paw actually has 2 campgrounds, the main park downtown and the adult park on the harbor.  You check in at the downtown office, then they lead you over to the adult park if you get a site there.  Last year we paid $35/night for 50A full hookup.

Our plan for the day had been to loaf in Tok and head down to Valdez on Saturday but the weather forecast this morning was for a great day but showers for the weekend so we packed up and headed southwest.

The trip to Tok is 258 miles, 125 on the Glenn Highway (Tok Cutoff) and 128 on the Richardson Highway from Glennallen to Valdez down the Copper River Canyon and over Williams Pass through the Chugach Mountain Range into Valdez. It turned out to be a beautiful day right to the top of Williams Pass where we ran into fog and drizzle so it was a good decision.

The Copper River winds its way to the sea through the west edge of the Wrangell-St Elias  National Park and Preserve, largest of our national parks, where the Wrangell, Chugach, and St Elias ranges converge and produce the largest number of glaciers and peaks over 16,000 feet including the second highest peak in North America, Mt St Elias at 18,003?. Referred to as the ?Mountain Kingdom of North America? the Park offers breathtaking scenery.

As we followed the Copper River Mt St Elias became visible in the distance across the Copper Valley partially obscured by smoke from forest fires out on the Kenai Peninsula. Further down the valley the Chugach Mountains come into view and as we started the climb to Williams pass the first of several glaciers are also visible.

We ran into the clouds and drizzle just as we reached the summit of the pass and that weather continued down to Valdez. Coming down off the pass the runoff from the glaciers and melting snow pack create a myriad of waterfalls including Bridal Veil Falls (Another One) in the Keystone Canyon.

The runoff ends up in the Lowe River flowing through Keystone Canyon which is slate gray in color as a result of the glacier water. Coming out of the canyon the river empties into the beginnings of Prince William Sound. On the south side of the Sound is the Alyeska Pipeline Terminal where the crude pumped from the North Slopes at Prudhoe Bay is pumped into tankers bound throughout the Pacific Rim.

We are staying at the Sea Otter RV Park on the waterfront next to the harbor in Valdez. The namesakes of the campground have been busily eating mussels just offshore in front of the motorhome. Directly across from us is the pipeline terminal where a small tanker just arrived. The inlet to the harbor is just to our right and the fishing fleet has been returning to port as it is Friday night.

After dinner we went for a walk around the park and noticed that across the street is the Peter Pan Seafood Co with a sign for seafood for sale. We went over and purchased seven pounds of Copper River Sockeye ($5.75/lb and a pound of halibut ($10.00/lb). We will get more salmon before we leave as Copper River is Sue?s favorite and get more Halibut when we get to Homer where Jeff plans on going on a halibut charter. The prices are great even if the freight is a little high!

We will be here until Monday morning when we take the 8:00AM ferry to Whittier out on the Kenai Peninsula.