Good tips for cleaning holding tank sensors

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WILDEBILL308 said:
I was afraid of that. We are now back into the never ending subject of "WHAT TP". :eek:
Bill
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Scotts if the best.
No, Charmin.
No, Angel Soft
No, Cottonelle
No, it doesn't mater, any of them is fine.
No, they all suck.

We're done!
 
stevensc said:
Scotts if the best.
No, Charmin.
No, Angel Soft
No, Cottonelle
No, it doesn't mater, any of them is fine.
No, they all suck.

We're done!
Click to expand...

You forgot Kirkland. Just trying to be helpful  ;)
 
It would be nice if they had a panel to calibrate the sensors to compensate for the build up when the tank is empty. I have the bilge pumps in my boats are wired to solid state bilge water level sensors that are the size of a domino, they self test and calibrate when I turn the battery disconnect on. The sensing contact it self is about the same size as these tank sensors. Absolutely the best most reliable bilge switch I have ever owned. They retail for 30.00, so its not like there's a cost issue, the technology is there. Sounds like I'm not alone, the 2/3 and full lights seem to be working properly and that's what I have been using to keep track of levels,,,gregg
 
Gray always shows empty after every dump. If we do a Black tank flush, then it shows empty. But, whenever we just do a regular dump, always shows two-thirds. We don't use anything special, no chemicals or anything.
 
I have seriously thought of going to our local rental store and renting a sewer line camera just to see what?s covering the sensor if anything. Has anyone tried that?
 
Brokeass Boater said:
It would be nice if they had a panel to calibrate the sensors to compensate for the build up when the tank is empty.
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I built my own to calibrate all four tanks.  Because the amount of crud varies, it takes several adjustments till a good average is found.

It is not the ?sensors? that are the issue, they are simply bolts thru the tank wall.  The scum between the bolts conducts electricity and causes the erroneous reading.  Any scum on the bolts would only serve to somewhat insulate and cannot be the real problem.  It is tank wall scum causing the problem, and any product that helps remove your particular scum will help.
 
Is this not an issue with non-contact type sensors or, after time do they also go flaky with goo on the wall of the tank?

While we've not owned any of our RV's for more than 18 months, we've never had an issue (assuming they will now not work after that statement!).

On a side note, I see some use Calgon.  We have a water softener so every drop that goes into any tank is softened.  Not sure if that helps prolong cleanliness or not.
 
It's not an issue with the SeeLevel sensors. We had them added shortly after we got our coach, and they are great, reading out to the nearest 4% to 5% (depends on where in the range).
 
Eventually enough goo on the tank walls can distort the reading even of non-penetrating sensors.  The OEM See-Level black tank sensor on my 2004 coach started to get flaky after about 10 years of use (@ 150-180 nights per year).  A treatment with Roebic K57 (see my earlier post) would restore it for a couple years but eventually that became an annual chore.  Never had a problem with the gray or fresh tanks - just the black.

The advantage of the non-contact sensor is that there is nothing for shreds of TP to cling on, so slime build-up is the only concern and that is long term.
 
I have solved both the tank sensor problem and the TP debate.
Two mud hens with one wrist rocket.... as it were.... ;)
 

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BinaryBob said:
I have solved both the tank sensor problem and the TP debate.
Two mud hens with one wrist rocket.... as it were.... ;)
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LOL. Nice work there Binary, just when this thread was back on track  ;)
 
Joezeppy said:
Our first outing is tomorrow - I'll get the ball rolling on the 2018 study. Now the only question is to wad or to fold?
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Origami. A nice crane or flower would be my choice.
RichH
 
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