Hi everyone! I?m totally new to all of this. A friend offered for me to live in their RV full time on their farm in exchange for some work around the farm. So I started living in it about 2-3 weeks ago. Had a few basic issues that I was able to fix from de-winterizing. However, starting a few days ago, all of the outlets went out in the RV. I tried resetting the GFCI, messed with the breakers and had an experienced RV friend come and work on it. It took a while, but we got the power back on after 2 more attempts of it shutting off. We made sure to monitor how many things were plugged in and hooked up, and so have been leaving everything unplugged when not in use just to be safe. Then, starting yesterday when I woke up, all outlets were out again with only having a phone plugged in overnight. I tried all the same things, with no success. I went out for the day and came back and the entire RV was out of power - no lights, no electric, no fridge, nothing. It is a 2008 Heartland Sundance 3200es. I have no clue what is happening or why, seeing as I wasn?t even using anything and wasn?t having the issue for the first 2 weeks of living there. What could it be? How do I fix it so that this doesn?t come up? If I live here full time on-site I don?t want to be wondering if I?ll come back to no power and all my food in the fridge/freezer gone everyday. :-[ Thank you so much in advance!!!!
All Power to RV is out
- Thread starter Mtredd881
- Start date
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Back2PA
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2015
- Posts
- 5,766
The first question is, what specifically did you friend do to successfully restore power the first time?
sc4668
Well-known member
You say all power out does that mean 12 DC and the 110 AC. Have you checked the battery? What is the voltage of the battery? Connection to battery corroded? Need a little more information.
We just happened to test one of the breaker switches again after already going through all the switches and it came back on temporarily before blowing out and knocking out the power to the outside of the actual house on the property as well. We went in and turned on the breaker switch in the house and came back and flipped on the same breaker switch after unplugging everything and it came on and stayed on for about 24 hours. That was all we did, nothing fancy. Then it all went out again. We looked at the battery too and it was fine, all connections to it fine. All power to 12 DC and 110 AC out. Thank you for your help!! He?s going to be coming out again tonight to take a look but even he was at a loss.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Ok, you need to find out where thee is and is not power. A 120 volt test light or voltmeter is a good tool here. I won't tell you how to make a 120 volt test light cause. Mistakes can bite you but you can buy some at hardware et-al stores
Starting at the house, the main breaker panel. IS the breaker "SET" or tripped or off?
Then the outlet. By law outside outlets must be GFCI protected unless "Grandfathered" for 15 amp. (I assume it's 15 amp) if it's 30 or 50 amp then that does not apply.. IF it is 30 amp make SURE it is 120 volt (use voltmeter) not 240 for a welder measure across the two flat pins opposite each other.
NOTE the breaker may be the GFCI (if so it will have a TEST button).
now the cord to the RV
If it is a trailer. ok, if a motor home you likely have an automatic transfer switch
now the master power panel in the RV, make sure you have power CAUTION DANGEROUS CURRENT
IF the RV has an inverter. Often outlets run through the inverter. it may have breakers on it as well or a sub (2nd) Breaker panel.
That's the best I can do remotely.
Starting at the house, the main breaker panel. IS the breaker "SET" or tripped or off?
Then the outlet. By law outside outlets must be GFCI protected unless "Grandfathered" for 15 amp. (I assume it's 15 amp) if it's 30 or 50 amp then that does not apply.. IF it is 30 amp make SURE it is 120 volt (use voltmeter) not 240 for a welder measure across the two flat pins opposite each other.
NOTE the breaker may be the GFCI (if so it will have a TEST button).
now the cord to the RV
If it is a trailer. ok, if a motor home you likely have an automatic transfer switch
now the master power panel in the RV, make sure you have power CAUTION DANGEROUS CURRENT
IF the RV has an inverter. Often outlets run through the inverter. it may have breakers on it as well or a sub (2nd) Breaker panel.
That's the best I can do remotely.
scottydl
Site Team
I too am wondering about the cord you have running from the house to the RV. Is it a true 30A RV power cord, plugged into a 30A outlet? (That's not something houses have generally... the property owner would have had one installed one at some point.) If you are plugged into a standard outlet on the house with a regular orange extension cord and combination of adapters, that is likely a 20A circuit and a 12A or 15A cord. There's a good chance you will start popping breakers (at least on the house, anytime the RV draws more than the extension cord or circuit breaker can handle) in a situation like that.
Household extension cords are also not recommended for fulltime RV use and can overheat or melt if too much current is sent through them.
Household extension cords are also not recommended for fulltime RV use and can overheat or melt if too much current is sent through them.
Coopster8
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2017
- Posts
- 47
That is what i was thinking, running an extension cord, and trying to run a/c will blow it for sure unless has a 30/50 amp outlet.. might of blown 12v converter fuse as well,
