2 issues - Weak batt charge on shore power and fogged glass

I am sure by now you all have figured these two out!

1). My dimension converter/inverter seems like it can either isn?t charging the batts at all or only a small amount.  When I am using power for a few days and plugged in my batt monitor says they are at 12.0 volts or less?.  When I have her in the sunshine for a few days and no draw it says 13.4 volts.  Shore power never charged the chassis batts?  Should I jettison the 13 year old converter/inverter?  Is it hard to replace?  Is it something I can upgrade without changing wiring? 

Oh and for what it?s worth the inside panel for the dimensions does not work.  I opened it up and saw no loose connections.  I cycled the circuit breaker.  No change.

2). No surprise here.  The glass is fogged over right where I look at the side mirror.  Needs replaced.  Can I tackle the replacement and get a piece cut?  Looking for a reasonably economical way to get this done.

Thanks all for your help!

KandT said:

I am sure by now you all have figured these two out!

1). My dimension converter/inverter seems like it can either isn?t charging the batts at all or only a small amount.  When I am using power for a few days and plugged in my batt monitor says they are at 12.0 volts or less?.  When I have her in the sunshine for a few days and no draw it says 13.4 volts.  Shore power never charged the chassis batts?  Should I jettison the 13 year old converter/inverter?  Is it hard to replace?  Is it something I can upgrade without changing wiring? 

Oh and for what it?s worth the inside panel for the dimensions does not work.  I opened it up and saw no loose connections.  I cycled the circuit breaker.  No change.
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As built your chassis batteries are only charged by the engine alternator. You should add a Trik-L-Start as per this 2006-04 Trik-L-Start - Winnebago Service Tip. (Note that the Trik-L-Start link in the pdf is out of date, but my link above is current.)  This post over on iRV2.com shows how I mounted my Trik-L-Start: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/batt...ml#post2354138

As far as the inside panel is concerned I would double check both ends of the large flat gray cable with modular end plugs (like network cable plugs or large telephone plugs) that connects it to the inverter.  I've seen recent threads where folks found the connector at the inverter end had been knocked loose causing them to loose the panel.  Re-plugging in the cable fixed it for them.

Just fyi, this thread over on iRV2.com shows how I replaced my Dimensions with a true-sine-wave Xantrex RS2000.  Xantrex RS2000 Install in a Vectra 36RD (long)

These days the Magnum MS2012 is probably a good choice.

KandT said:

...  Should I jettison the 13 year old converter/inverter?  Is it hard to replace?  Is it something I can upgrade without changing wiring?  ...

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LOL - it should have been replaced 13 years ago  .

I replaced the Dimented Inverter/charger when my coach was brand new with a PSW Xantrex (which failed a couple of years ago and replaced with a PSW Magnum.)

KandT said:

I am sure by now you all have figured these two out!

1). My dimension converter/inverter seems like it can either isn?t charging the batts at all or only a small amount.  When I am using power for a few days and plugged in my batt monitor says they are at 12.0 volts or less?.  When I have her in the sunshine for a few days and no draw it says 13.4 volts.  Shore power never charged the chassis batts?  Should I jettison the 13 year old converter/inverter?  Is it hard to replace?  Is it something I can upgrade without changing wiring? 

Click to expand...

I replaced ours a few years ago, took all of about 25min or so.

1 - when I have erratic display or no display at all inside, I unplug the network type table that runs from the inverter to the board inside. Leave it unplugged at least 1 minute and then plug it back in. This supposedly reboots the board inside.
2 - proper repair of the Dual pane glass requires some knowledge of hell to do that. You could remove it and have a glass shop do it (the glass must be tempered) , or you can take it to someone who does that like Fog Dr. in Searcy Arkansas. OR you could replace only one pain and have a single pane window. But again, the glass must be tempered for safety.

KandT said:

2). No surprise here.  The glass is fogged over right where I look at the side mirror.  Needs replaced.  Can I tackle the replacement and get a piece cut?  Looking for a reasonably economical way to get this done

Click to expand...

I had same problem. Work done last year on way tto Florida.
Post is here.
http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,103519.msg936365.html#msg936365
Hope this helps.

thanks all for your posts.  Any idea what the left driver's side window pane should cost to replace with an appropriate tempered piece of glass?  I am going to check a couple local places and want to see if they are in the ballpark.

On a separate note, I did get a little sticker shock when I looked up the $1300+ price for the recommended inverter!  Oh well, you don't get an RV because it is a great way to save money I guess!

Re-do of the dual pane glass in the stationary half on my driver slider window was $328.50 inc tax. That was at Fog Dr & included one new piece of tempered glass.

I had the slider on drivers side plus the stationary window in front of it done and if I remember correctly the price was $450-$480.
Good luck