Trying to understand Tow Ratings

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M

Minnesota Dan

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Joined
May 6, 2018
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Hi All,

I am so new to RVing that I don't even own an RV yet.  I am looking to buy a vehicle that can tow an RV this year and then the RV next year.  My dilemma is in trying to understand to ratings.  Specifically, I had thought about buying a Jeep Cherokee.  According to http://webcontent.goodsam.com/trailerlife.com/digital_editions/TrailerLifeTowGuide2018.pdf , with a V6 and the tow package, this vehicle is capable of towing 4500lbs.  I had intended to buy a travel trailer in the 3500lb range and I want to be certain that I have enough vehicle for the trailer. 

When I look at articles such as "Calculate Trailer Towing Capacity" http://www.rvforum.net/joomla/index.php/26-towing-and-towables/187-calculate-trailer-towing-capacity, I am completely lost and don't even see the towing vehicles tow rating included in the calculations. 

So, I'm trying to understand if a vehicle is rated to pull 4500lbs, what is the realistic maximum weight I would want to tow.  And is 4500lbs realistic to start out with or should I be looking for something with a higher tow rating?

Thanks,
Dan





 
Online you can find Trailer Life tow ratings for most new vehicles.
The sad part,  SUVs simply do not have much capacity if loaded with bodies.  How many people andmhow much gear do you normally carry? 
Another thing you need to be careful aboit.  DO NOT use the published "dry" weight numbers that all trailer
MfGs seem to want to post.  They do not allow for anything.  Instead get at minimum a tow vehicle to handle the trailers GVWR.  You may never load up to that number, but better safe than sorry.
Tahoe can be a decent tow vehicle as long as you keep under around 7000 pounds Gross weight.
With your choice Jeep 6 cylinder I would be looking at trailers like Teardrops, smallest RPod or similar.  Remember towing is like having a huge sail behind you dragging you down.
 
Your choice is to purchase the TV you want and live with whatever limitations that involves, or the trailer you want and live with whatever TV is required to do the job.

The reality is SUV's are a poor choice for towing most trailers that people want.

Remember a few basic ideas.

Always assume the trailer will be at max weight, not dry weight.

And the the tongue weight will be at least 12% of the max weight.

Always look at the door sticker to see what that specific TV can really haul.  They can be all over the map and rarely can haul the published specs.  That will either be max payload, or GVWR.  Not the same thing, but will get to the same place.

Remember that EVERYTHING loaded in the TV is subtracted from the payload capacity. Passengers, cargo, food, tongue weight, after market or dealer added accessories......everything.

Try to keep the TV within about 80-85% of its capability to ensure a safe margin of error, and enjoyable towing experience.

Towing and hauling are not the same thing.  Plenty of vehicles can tow (or pull) an amazing amount of weight, which the TV manufacturers like to advertise.  But it is up to you to be sure that the vehicle isn't over loaded (hauling) in the process, something they conveniently don't discuss without prodding.

Equally important if the RV or vehicle salesman states anything contrary......walk away.....because after all they only lie when their lips are moving.







 
[quote author=danbicknell]When I look at articles such as "Calculate Trailer Towing Capacity" http://www.rvforum.net/joomla/index.php/26-towing-and-towables/187-calculate-trailer-towing-capacity, I am completely lost and don't even see the towing vehicles tow rating included in the calculations.[/quote]

Tow rating is simply (GCWR - GVWR). The Trailer Life table has done the calculation for you. In the example given in the article, I used a calculation of actual weights of the tow vehicle and trailer, rather than the GVWR of each. For an explanation of these terms, click the Glossary button in the menu above.
 
Take a look at a Jeep Grand Cherokee with a factory tow package.
 
Tom said:
Tow rating is simply (GCWR - GVWR). The Trailer Life table has done the calculation for you. In the example given in the article, I used a calculation of actual weights of the tow vehicle and trailer, rather than the GVWR of each. For an explanation of these terms, click the Glossary button in the menu above.
Click to expand...

Thanks Tom, that makes a little more sense.  I am still having problems finding the GCWR value for a car.  For example, if I look at the Dodge Durango that the example used, I can go to the factory page - https://www.dodge.com/build#/summary/zipcode/55379/vehicle/CUD201811/ccode/CUD201811WDDL75A/llp/2TA/options/ERC,DFT,TDC,WPH,H7,UAG,DML,Z1K,X9,PSC,2BA,APA - click on 'View Summary' -> 'All Standard Features' -> 'Dimensions & Capabilities' - I see it lists the  GVWR as 6,500 and the 'Towing Capacity Maximum' (that is with the Tow Kit)  as 6,200.  What I don't see is the GCWR.  Where would I find that number?

Thanks,
Dan
 
You probably won't find a GCWR formally stated for a car or SUV, but you can assume it is the SUV  GVWR + Tow Rating. So, for that Durango you referenced, it is 6500 + 6200 = 12,700.

As others have already stated, the big drawback in most cars and SUVs is that after deducting the weight of passengers and gear in the vehicle, there isn't much left for towing or for carrying the trailer tongue weight.

There are some pretty good auto-calculators available online to help with the arithmetic:
http://www.huskytow.com/towing-calculator/
http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-trailer-weight-tt.shtml
 
As was said earlier, stay away from the "DRY WEIGHT". It is basically useless in the real world. I saw a post here recently, that was a follow on to a much, much earlier thread in which the OP was asking, just like you, about weights, towing, etc. The OP talked about dry weight, and even though several of the responses from some of the more knowledgeable members said to "forget dry weight", the OP kept coming back to it. It was like "I see what you are posting, but I'm not listening". I don't know how his situation turned out, but  use the info you will get from the members here, to help in your decision. Look at some of the numbers of posts some of the members have made. They have been in this game a long time and are a wealth of knowledge....USE THEM.
 
in an effort to add clarification to the OP

GCVWR = GCWR = gross combined vehicle weight rating = the maximum weight of car+trailer together as when going down the road

GVWR = gross vehicle weight rating = the most just the car alone can weigh (all four tires), as it sits full of gas, people, stuff.... with the trailer attached or not.  You have to have enough capacity to hold the tongue weight of the trailer + all the people and stuff you put in the car

front GAWR = front axle weight rating = the most weight that can be on the steer or front axle

rear GAWR = rear axle weight rating = the most that can be on the rear axle of the car

As long as none of these ratings are exceeded, you're good
 
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