Newbie WD Hitch Questions

Hi all - finally decided to upgrade from our old popup to a new-to-me 2006 Shamrock 21SS Hybrid.  I'll be towing with a 2006 Expedition.  Dry weight on the new trailer (per mfg specs) is around 3,500, and GVWR around 5,000.  Tongue Weight is listed as 350 (I'm assuming this is dry?)

I've never used a WD hitch before as I didn't have much of a need on the popup. We don't pick up the trailer for a few weeks, so I told the dealer I needed to do a little more research on WD hitches before committing to buying what he was offering.  He suggested an Equalizer hitch which he would sell for $800 including installation.  He didn't specify which size equalizer, but from what I've read it sounds like I'll be best off with the 10k lb setup, as I could be right on the edge it with the 6k setup (5,000 GVWR x 10-15% = 500-750 tongue weight).  Looks like etrailer has them for about $500, but then I'd need to figure out installation myself (in the parking lot of the dealer before I bring it home?)

Another option is my father-in-law has a 12k lb equalizer that he no longer uses and would give me for free.  It seems like this will be overkill for my situation, but saving $500-800 would be nice.  Would this make my ride terrible or unsafe? 

So here are my options, what do you suggest?
1. Buy $800 hitch from dealer including installation
2. Buy $500 hitch online and install myself in the parking lot of the dealer
3. Buy $500 hitch online and drive home (5 miles, no highway) without WD, then figure out installation at home in lower pressure environment
4. Hook up free 12k lb hitch and give it a try before spending unneccessary money
5. Can I switch the 12k bars for 10k bars?  I've read conflicting opinions on this here: https://www.etrailer.com/question-226271.html and here: https://www.etrailer.com/question-236300.html

If it takes $800 for this to be a safe setup, and to not ruin my first towing experience with a "larger" trailer, then I'll spend the money.  But I'm not really into spending money just for fun, so would love to hear some suggestions.  Thanks!

Welcome to The RV Forum!

I'd try the FREE hitch first.      Just make sure the ball is the correct diameter to match your trailer, sometimes the ball size increases with weight capacity.

On the articles you quoted, the first says there's no problem downgrading from 1200 lb. bars to 1000 lb. bars.  But upgrading the capacity in the opposite directions creates problems because the heavier bars are wider so they won't fit the 1000 lb head.

I'd try the 1200 lb. bars first.  You'll just put less tension on them to support your lower pin weight, and the downside is they may make the car to trailer suspension stiffer than you want going over bumps.

Welcome to the Forum!

First, you basically have a 1/2 ton truck with a different body.  Towing a 3500# TT with 350 or 400 hitch weight (NO WD) should be simple - especially a distance you could walk!  Once home, try the free hitch and set it up at your pace with nobody looking over your shoulder.  Free is always the first choice!

Even if the dealer set up your hitch, it would need adjusted for the ACTUAL load once you got home and got it packed.

Thanks so much for the input!  This is what I needed to hear.  And now I totally see that those Q&A's were different questions (up vs down grading), so that makes much more sense. 

I'll give the FREE set up a try and go from there.  ;D

You have a bit of a loaded question;
$800 is very high in my opinion. I paid $440 for a good quality hitch (Camco R6). Amazon has a 10k Equalizer hitch for under $500- I don't think it should be $300 to "install" the hitch.
Speaking of "install". The only installation is sliding the hitch into your receiver- it is the setup that is tricky. That said, its not THAT hard. just take your time measuring. Watch some video's, read articles, and talk to people (like you are here) and you shouldn't need to pay that much.

Hitch weight- the numbers you listed were ideal numbers. Properly set up and loaded the hitch weight is 10% of the total. That doesn't mean that is what you will get if it is not loaded correctly ideally. (I say ideally because its hard to get it just right to be spot on the 10% mark) The only way to know for sure is to get it on the scales.

Take the freebie! As long as it includes sway control you should be all set! The dealer may say they won't set it up for you... I call BS. They want the sale. You might offer to pay- even $100 to have them set it up if it makes you feel better. But you should not be locked into buying from them.

Finally, you mention book weights and numbers. NEVER rely on these. I recommend you use the MAX trailer ratings. If you are still within specs at the max rating you know you will be good to go no matter what. If you are ok at dry weight- but slip over the line on the GVWR, it is too easy to cross over that line and be unsafe...

As others have said, you can get the equalizer for much less from Amazon. i got mine from there and had no problems installing it. After looking at info on the internet it was basically following the dots. Additionally, I would use the free one as well. It may be a little stiff but it will keep your TT from swaying. BTW...I am 70 years old and had no problems setting it up. It is heavy but manageable. Good luck and have fun. 

One bit of correction.  The OP was correct using 10% - 15% of GVWR for hitch weight.  Central said aim for 10%.  That is incorrect.  You MUST HAVE a MINIMUM of 10% of the actual trailer weight carried by the hitch.  More is better, so long as the TV (Tow Vehicle) is not overloaded.  There is no need to limit hitch weight to 10%!!  Less is a guaranteed white knuckle trip!

Very true Grashly...
I was make a quick calculation on the manufacturers numbers- which really aren;t accurate when they throw an automatic 10% number on it. And I also agree, from experience a little above 10% is much more comfortable driving!

In practice, 10% of GVWR is often more like 11-12% of the actual trailer weight. Sometimes even more, depending on loading.  We use 10% of GVWR for estimating purposes because it is a known number for any given rig, whereas actual loaded weight requires loading the trailer and then getting it on a scale. When buying a WD set-up, 10% of GVWR is a reasonable spec for the hitch capability.

As others have said, it's not an upper limit.