1995 Ford Bounder fuel pump problem

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highpockets58

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May 8, 2018
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Hi. I am new here. I did put this post on the newcomer page, but shouldn't have. I have a 95 Bounder 460 Ford powered. It has the typical fuel pump quit issue when it is warm out and the tank gets somewhat low. I am trying to decide the best fix outside of an expensive trip to Ford. I thought about installing an external pump but don't know if (A) it will suck past the in tank unit if that pump fails totally, and (B) will the in tank pump push past the external pump if it is shut off? I did find some inexpensive replacement pumps ($100+) on Rock Auto, but not sure if they are for the motor home or not. I looked under Ford F53 and that is where I located the pump (s). Any help? Thanks in advance.
 
After doing a little searching on this site, I think I will try to replace the in tank pump. I have done them on other vehicles, this is just bigger (heavier). There is an Airtex pump for around $70 and a Carter for around $120, both on Rock Auto. I took the Carter number and googled and it does show for the 90-97 Ford F53. So, this should be a replacement for the stock one, I hope, link attached. Any suggestions or help appreciated. Thanks.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8021284&cc=1367399&jsn=1004
 
Welcome to The RV Forum!

I think you made the right choice to do it right by replacing the in-tank pump.  The original design had wiper seals that wore out, the new ones have roller seals.

I had a garage drop my tank (I was in the middle of a trip) but it wasn't that big of a deal.  Disconnect the fuel inlet hoses and tank supports and it will drop down far enough to get to the top.  Of course, it helps if there isn't much fuel in the tank when you drop it.  I had about a quarter tank when the pump failed.  They used a roll-around transmission jack and didn't have to drain any fuel.

While you're in there, replace the rubber hoses on top of the tank that go to and from the main engine, and to the generator.  If the generator hose cracks it will suck air and stall out.
 
Instead of dropping the entire tank, some folks have carefully measured and cut an access opening in the floor above the fuel pump, typically under the bed. Others have found they could support and secure the rear end of the tank and just lower the front enough with a floor jack to reach the pump. In any event, Lou's advice about the generator hose should be followed for a vehicle that old. The other hoses need to be high pressure fuel injection rated, but the generator hose can be low pressure.
 
If your 95 Bounder is any thing like my 95 Bounder, you accomplish nothing by cutting a hole in the bed room floor, except for having a viewing port to the basement area. The original 95 pump was a gear pump and you couldn't pull enough fuel through it to make your engine run right. That leaves out an add on pump. The replacements are turbine pumps. No seals on either pump. What leaks past the shaft just goes to the tank.You can replace just the pump but that leaves you with the old fuel sending unit. I suggest you get the whole assembly and do it once. The new units come with 4 wires, while the OEM pump assemble had 3 wires. 2 of the wires on the new pump are ground. Tie them together and hook them to the original ground wire on the harness. The other 2 wires are, 1 for the pump and 1 for the sending unit.
 
What Ris said. Get the oem replacement turbine pump. A 4 wire to 3 wire jumper will be offered with pump for $10+-. I suggest using jumper and eliminating connections. Expect to spend #400 or so.
 
Still undecided. The Carter pump I looked at for $120 was the pump only, no sending unit so I don't know about that one. I did find the Motorcraft ones for $350+ with the pigtail. I read the reviews on those and they don't sound like they last long at all either. I did check with 2 different in line pumps and they will not let the in tank pump push through them if they are not powered up. I was thinking about having one of those that I could turn on when/if my in tank struggles, but they have to be on all the time but I guess that is how they are meant to work. My pump still works, just has issues when the tank is low and it is hot outside. I am thinking about putting an inline external pump on and running them both,,,using the in tank as a "booster" to the external. Am I being foolish or overthinking it too much? My budget is partially affecting the decision also, but I also don't want to be sitting alongside the road for an afternoon or getting towed.
 
I ran a 1995 F53 chassis motorhome for about 3 years using an external pump before I got around to replacing the OEM pump. I'd guess we put around 20,000 miles on it that way. I powered the pump through a relay controlled by the OEM pump power.
 
NY_Dutch said:
I ran a 1995 F53 chassis motorhome for about 3 years using an external pump before I got around to replacing the OEM pump. I'd guess we put around 20,000 miles on it that way. I powered the pump through a relay controlled by the OEM pump power.
Click to expand...

That is what my friend suggested. Put the external pump in, hooked to a relay powered by the OEM pump wire. I was wondering if my computer would be affected, but probably not.
 
NY_Dutch said:
I ran a 1995 F53 chassis motorhome for about 3 years using an external pump before I got around to replacing the OEM pump. I'd guess we put around 20,000 miles on it that way. I powered the pump through a relay controlled by the OEM pump power.
Click to expand...

Did you leave the in tank pump hooked up (running) or disconnect it? If disconnected, did your external pull through the tank unit OK?
 
highpockets58 said:
Did you leave the in tank pump hooked up (running) or disconnect it? If disconnected, did your external pull through the tank unit OK?
Click to expand...

I left the in tank pump in place and hooked up, using both in tandem.
 
Fix it right the first time. IF that in tank pump gives up while you are on the road your expense will be double or triple. I've had a couple tanks down while they were low on fuel, not that bad of a job. I have a couple floor jacks and a couple pieces of 3/4 plywood to spread the load out on the tank. Didn't have to remove the tanks out from under the coach, just let the jacks down after disconnecting the fuel lines. I would test the sending unit with an ohm meter to be sure there is no dead spots in it before deciding on replacing the whole module. If it tested good I'd just replace the pump.
 
Charlie 5320 said:
Fix it right the first time. IF that in tank pump gives up while you are on the road your expense will be double or triple. I've had a couple tanks down while they were low on fuel, not that bad of a job. I have a couple floor jacks and a couple pieces of 3/4 plywood to spread the load out on the tank. Didn't have to remove the tanks out from under the coach, just let the jacks down after disconnecting the fuel lines. I would test the sending unit with an ohm meter to be sure there is no dead spots in it before deciding on replacing the whole module. If it tested good I'd just replace the pump.
Click to expand...

That's fine if you're not already on a trip in the middle of New Mexico when the OEM pump starts acting up. I installed the external pump laying on my back in an RV park in Gallup, NM, only delaying the rest of our trip a couple of hours.
 
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