Suburban sw10dwater heater won't light

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Frank B

Frank B

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Joined
Apr 23, 2005
Posts
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Location
Calgary, Alberta
8 year old suburban sw10 will not light. I can hear the electronic start click, and I can hear the gas valve clunk on and off. It behaves like there is no propane, but all other appliances work. I changed propane bottles just in case, and that changed nothing. I switched the small rocker switch on and off several times, and pressed both of the rubber covered reset buttons, all to no avail. It works when connected to shore power. Anything I've missed? Suggestions?


It worked fine last night, and the water in the tank is still warm. However, it will not now restart this morning.
 
Just a guess.

Did you check the pipe for bugs and spider webs?
Seems that is fairly common they build nests in there and then the gas can't flow.

 
Sometimes rust flakes or an insect nest near the tip of the gas burner will disrupt the gas/air flow enough that it won't light. Despite all the warnings about ga dangers, it is actually very sensitive to having the proper air/gas ratio for successful ignition.  If there is an air intake slot on the tube to the burner, make sure that is clear also.
 
Well, I examined the gas jet, burner tube, Etc. No obstructions, no dirt, no spiders. And, more importantly, no gas.


There is gas coming into the top of the valve, but there is absolutely no gas coming out of the jet. Therefore, I suspect the gas valve assembly is defective, even though the solenoid seems to move.


We are out of town at the moment, but will be close to a major Center tomorrow. I'll have a look for a gas valve assembly then.
 
You might try removing the jet and cleaning it before you spend any money on it.  The valve could be opening fine, but if a piece of trash gets in the orifice, you're dead in the water.
 
Old_Crow said:
You might try removing the jet and cleaning it before you spend any money on it.  The valve could be opening fine, but if a piece of trash gets in the orifice, you're dead in the water.
Click to expand...


Tks. That is on the list for this morning. Had to fix the a/c yesterday....  :(


How big is the orifice, typically? Can it be safely cleaned with a small copper wire?
 
Wally and Gary:


Before going for a new gas valve, I pulled the burner tube and had a look at it.  On the gas feed side of the pipe going between the gas valve and the jet/burner assembly was the tiniest little sliver of brass that you have ever seen (or almost not seen)!  It was lying sideways right across the jet hole.  Rather than try to dig it out, I rapped the burner tube sharply against the A frame of the trailer, and I guess it fell out, as I couldn't see it again afterward.  I re-mounted the burner tube and reconnected the gas line to it, and it started on the second try.


However....


It didn't stay lit.  It went out in less than a minute, and now won't restart again.


I removed and cleaned the 4 push-on wiring connectors to each of the two solenoid coils as they had some corrosion, but that didn't help.


Gas valve?


I blew through the jet, and the little tube between the gas valve and the jet, and both allow airflow.


I'm thinking that the only other thing left is the thermostat. But if that was tripping early, the gas valve should not try to reopen, and the electric starter should not work, correct?


Can a gas valve partially fail?


Thanks.


Frank.
 
Can a gas valve partially fail?
Click to expand...


So, to answer my own question: Yes, they can.  And intermittent failures are the hardest to diagnose.  Replacing the gas valve was a $169 guess, but the right one, it seems.


Finally got the CORRECT replacement valve installed, and it starts and burns just fine now. 


Suburban has several of these gas valves, and the one they gave me was identical except for the outlet fitting.  (Note to self -- take the old part with you next time to make SURE the parts person has not made an error.)  Had to go back and exchange it for the correct one (or buy a brass reducer which I could not find locally).  Oddly enough, the correct valve was $75 cheaper than the one I got the first time.  :)


Anyway, no cold showers when boondocking next week.  ;D :))


Frank.
 
Frank B said:
I switched the small rocker switch on and off several times, and pressed both of the rubber covered reset buttons, all to no avail. It works when connected to shore power.
Click to expand...

The small rocker switch on a Suburban is only for the 110 Volt electric heating element. You did say it works good while connected to shore power so that says the element is good.
 
Rene T said:
The small rocker switch on a Suburban is only for the 110 Volt electric heating element. You did say it works good while connected to shore power so that says the element is good.
Click to expand...


Indeed. Was just trying as many things as I could in an effort to be as thorough as possible before asking for help. Ya never know what ya might overlook.  ;)
 
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