Hot water side 2005 winnie Sunova ?35N

Worked fine for her usual morning shower before work last Friday (as it usu. does), haven?t run hot water since then (two days). Now it runs a ?slow drizzle? from all hot water sides (both sinks, shower tested.. only hot water side shows this ?drizzle? failure). Usually both hot and cold sides will push w/ same pressure, regardless of how hot the hot water side may be (regardless of the last time that we felt the need to use any hot water, in other words). Where could the problem lie?

Atwood 6 gallon GH6-8E (propane) heater. I watched a video on basic maintenance, the 1?+ plastic plug below doesn?t appear to be leaking, I opened the valve above, it still shows some water to let go (but far from any ?high? pressure, if it?s supposed to?)

I watched another video, a fellow RVer had the same symptoms (low pressure from hot side). Am I to understand that only the ?pipe junction? [plastic to brass to tank] going to the top of the tank is a check valve in need of replacement (nothing at the pipe junction at the bottom of the tank... or should I investigate both of these junctions?). For $8.00+/- ea., I figure that while I?m struggling with it, ?In for a penny...?

I would also envision that there is a proper sequence of events to minimize/prevent any water from draining inside... 1-shut off water outside, 2- drain water from hot water heater?s check valve and plug from outside, 3- turn off that inline valve sitting amidst the bunch of plastic tubing behind the hot water tank inside.  The author seemed to stress the importance of making sure that, once finished the check valve changeout, to make sure that the tank fills w/ water before beginning to heat the water again. Stands to reason.

Is that check valve a fairly common item, or are there versions unique to the water heater in question?

How many valves do you have for bypassing the water heater? If you only have one or two, then it sounds like the outlet (top pipe) check valve may have failed.  For a quick temporary fix, disconnect the top pipe, then remove the check valve from the tank outlet. Then using a screwdriver, knock out the internals. Then R/I the modified check valve and reconnect the pipe.

If you have an outside shower, make sure it's turned off. An extremely common situation with Winnebago and hot water problems is almost always due to a check valve failure. There are two on the heater, replace both. Even if that's not the root cause of your problems, the valves will fail at some point.

The check vales are part of the RV makers installation process rather than the heater itself, so some RV brands may differ form others.  However, a single valve bypass system requires at least a check valve on the outlet (top) pipe.  John says Winnie uses checks valves on both inlet and outlet and he's the Winnie expert, so I would follow his advice.

With the heater off and cool (for safety), you should have a steady flow when the PT relief valve is opened on the side of the tank. With either the pump o or city water connected for pressure, of course.  If you can't get a steady flow from the PT valve, the problem is in the tank inlet or the cold supply line. If it flows well, the problem is at the tank outlet.

Timely Topic - 2009 Destination 37G

Suffered the check valve failure over the weekend. Good flow on cold, trickle on hot. Turn the bypass and strong flow through the "hot" side of the faucet valve.  Hot water worked fine in the morning and in the afternoon (after driving about 150 miles) hot water would just trickle out.

In the plumbing diagram for the Destination they show a single check valve located on a vacuum breaker. No other check valves shown. The parts manual (for the Destination) lists a single check valve, but does not show where it goes (outbound or inbound).

Luckily I do have limited access to the back of the water heater, after I disassemble part of the entertainment center. Great job in 100+ weather. Think I'll wait till Sunday, only 88 degrees predicted then 

Remember my procedure is only a temporary fix. Now if you know you'll never need to winterize, just leave the modified check valve in place. But if you will need to winterize at the end of the summer, you'll need to remove the modified check valve and install a good one. Or you could install a small ball valve in the place of the check valve and you'll never have that issue again. You'll just need access to this new valve in order to bypass the heater.

OK, I found the check valves - very easy access - How the heck do I remove them. These are brass and go into what appears to be either aluminum or galvanized fitting on the tank. A 10 inch adjustable wrench did not budge them. A bigger wrench?

mickey53usa said:

OK, I found the check valves - very easy access - How the heck do I remove them. These are brass and go into what appears to be either aluminum or galvanized fitting on the tank. A 10 inch adjustable wrench did not budge them. A bigger wrench?

Click to expand...

That aluminum is the boss which is part of the tank.
Yes a 12" crescent should do it. Remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey.

If you can safely use a propane torch in that area (and assuming no plastic fittings), heat applied to the part should help break it loose.

Thought about torch heat, except that the water heater is covered in foam, plastic water lines and of course wood (under the entertainment center cabinet). I did think about filling the tank with water and then starting the water heater, let it get to temperature and then, after draining all the hot water, go after the fittings. Might try that after the "bigger wrench" approach.

Maybe tap on the end of the 12" wrench with a hammer.

12 inch adjustable wrench did it - had a 15 inch standing by - The hot water side check valve was largely intact, at least the spring and the valve, but no little tabs to hole the valve to the spring. Cold side is another story - All the guts, except for the spring must be rattling around in the water heater as they were not in the brass body. Replaced with more plastic ones - Valterra - If these last for eight years I'll be fine -

mickey53usa said:

12 inch adjustable wrench did it - had a 15 inch standing by - The hot water side check valve was largely intact, at least the spring and the valve, but no little tabs to hole the valve to the spring. Cold side is another story - All the guts, except for the spring must be rattling around in the water heater as they were not in the brass body. Replaced with more plastic ones - Valterra - If these last for eight years I'll be fine -

Click to expand...

Do you have good flow now?

Yes sir - Pressure tested after getting it back together and had to tighten one fitting that wanted to be a geyser, but nothing unusual http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/Smileys/default/grin.gif

mickey53usa said:

12 inch adjustable wrench did it - had a 15 inch standing by - The hot water side check valve was largely intact, at least the spring and the valve, but no little tabs to hole the valve to the spring. Cold side is another story - All the guts, except for the spring must be rattling around in the water heater as they were not in the brass body. Replaced with more plastic ones - Valterra - If these last for eight years I'll be fine -

Click to expand...

Good show Mickey!  )