Tongue jack is kaput

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merlinmurph

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Apr 27, 2016
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Hopkinton, MA
Well, after a winter of storage, I went out to the trailer, hooked up the battery, and was going to to take the trailer out to sanitize the water system - until I found that the tongue jack didn't work. Arrgghh.

The battery is excellent, all charged up and only 2 years old.
The jack had been making funny noises occasionally last year, but seemed to work fine.
I dove in and took some of the jack apart. First thing I noticed is that there is water inside which probably came in thru the opening where the manual handle can be used. I did some basic electrical tests, as my electricity diagnostic skills are very basic. I found that the switch seems fine. When I switch on both up and down, I got a good reading of about 12.7V.

So, is the motor shot?
If so, is it worth replacing the motor?
I have no idea what make the jack is as I bought the trailer used and I see no markings at all on the jack except that it's 3500 lb capacity and possibly model # TC-3500 (the sticker is very faded).

While searching the forum, someone mentioned that grounding issues could be the problem. Is there a way to test for this?

If I were to buy a whole new jack, are there things to look for, like compatibility with the trailer, etc.??

Thanks and hope everyone is doing well,
Dan

 
Thanks, guys. I'll try the direct wiring trick - good idea. I'm a software guy and that's hardware - we'll see what happens!

I took a look for a reset button, but didn't see anything and I had all the electric pieces out. Thanks, though.

Raining here right now and tomorrow is my wife's birthday, so it might be Monday.

Thanks,
Dan
 
It could be a broken wire going TO the motor.  I would be very concerned about that standing water killing a motor.

The jacks and mounting are fairly generic.  If yours bolts in thru the A frame, most bolt in A frame jacks with the proper weight rating should bolt right in and do fine.  Check the retracted length and extended length make sure  both fit your needs.
 
I spent a few hours yesterday trying things and checking things. Again, my electricity knowledge is very basic and I may not have been doing good tests, but I got nothing. So, I'm off to see if I pick up a new jack.

Do these things have a standard way they attach to the frame? Mine looks like there are three bolts attaching a flange on the jack to the top of the frame.

Thanks for the help,
Dan
 
It grounds through the mount to the frame. You will need a good bare metal connection from its mount to the frame mount.  My original one on my then one year old camper crapped out.  I put on a Bulldog jack and have been very happy with it.
 
Two comments
First "Do they have a standard way they attach" Yes. you described it, 3 bolts
You may have to remove something to get it to go through the hole but those 3 bolts are it.

Grounding via the frame.. IF the control switch is on the jack it may be done that way or they may run two wires back to the battery, both methods are used.
 
I had to replace a tongue jack a couple of times when I had a TT.  Easy to do.  About a 30 minute operation.  I would hook the trailer up to my truck, raise the jack until it was clear of the ground, unbolt the old jack, install the jack using the same three holes and new bolts, hook up the wires and I was good to go.  If you are not certain what replacement to buy, unhook the and leave the RV on the truck.  Take the jack to the local RV dealer and tell them you need one of these.  If they do not have what you need, you can order a new one and reinstall the old one back on so you can use your truck.  Mine was three bolts also.  One suggestion, which I found out about the hard way, when not in use put a water proof cover on the jack head to keep the moisture out.  The unit will last longer.  Also, the point about the ground is very well taken.  I had that problem once.  Fortunately I found it before I bought a new jack.  :)
 
Follow up:

I finally decided the jack was toast and went and bought a new Lippert 3500 lb jack at a dealer. Definitely could have gotten it cheaper, but still not bad.

To install it, I put some blocks under the frame and was planning on manually turning the crank to raise the trailer enough to take the load off the old jack. Didn't budge - frozen. So, I used the hydraulic jack in the truck to raise the trailer and rested it on blocks.

The old bolts came out easily - I was surprised. The electrical was a PITA, yet another example of how cheaply these things are assembled. All the 12v connections are at two terminals attached to the frame near the battery. I could not get the nut off the terminal to remove the old wire. I fudged around with it for about two hours (waaaay too long), but the post just rotated. I took the terminal block off, but that didn't help. I ended up leaving the old connector on, put the new connector over the old nut, and put two nuts over that. Hope that's OK. Work's great. Sure hope I don't have to deal with those 12v connections again.

Are there cleaner/better ways to manage all the 12v wires for the trailer? They make these things in the fastest possible way with no consideration about anybody ever having to deal with these connections again.

I agree, a cover would be a good idea, especially when stored.

Thanks for all the help, appreciate the support,
Murph
 
What you did on the terminal block is fine.  You were lucky to have enough exposed bolt left to do it!

If you want to "clean up" the terminal block, buy a new one and replace it.  Cut the wires one at a time, crimp on a new end, and connect it to the new block.  I have not looked, but you may find a covered block or a small plastic case to put the block in.
 
Don't forget to check for an inline fuse.

I am on my second manual jack. $40.00 and three bolts . It is my last vestige of old style camping .

Good luck
 
My rig has the 3 bolt plate that bolts to the top of the hitch frame but also has a plate welded to the underside of the frame with a jack size specific hole in it. A 2500 lb jack has a 2" shaft, 3500 has larger shaft that will not fit in the 2" hole!
I was planning to replace the 2500 with a 3500 but, because of the hole size difference, the job became a whole lot more expensive!
Check out what you have befor you try to change.
 
countrycorners said:
My rig has the 3 bolt plate that bolts to the top of the hitch frame but also has a plate welded to the underside of the frame with a jack size specific hole in it. A 2500 lb jack has a 2" shaft, 3500 has larger shaft that will not fit in the 2" hole!
I was planning to replace the 2500 with a 3500 but, because of the hole size difference, the job became a whole lot more expensive!
Check out what you have befor you try to change.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum.
The OP changed out his jack on May 25th.
 
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