Our family is considering buying a 2018 travel trailer. Our two contenders right now are the Forest River Cherokee Wolf Pup 16 BHS and the Viking Ultra Lite 17BH. The thing we could really use is feedback from current owners on quality of workmanship and durability. There is so much information out there on new travel trailers having an endless list of poor quality related issues. We would really value hearing from anyone out there that could help us determine if one is a landmine and the other is gold. LOL By the way, we are towing with a Honda minivan with 3500 towing capacity or a Nissan Frontier with 5000 towing capacity. Thanks in advance for any help!
2018 Forest River Cherokee Wolf Pup 16BHS Versus Viking Ultra Lite 17BH
- Thread starter drdzem
- Start date
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
grashley
Well-known member
Welcome to the Forum!
Both campers have a GVWR just under 3800#. As such, the Odyssey is a non starter. Here is why.
The GVWR is the most the camper can weigh, fully loaded. The dry wt is the weight without anything in the camper. Fill the propane tanks, add a battery, water and sewer hoses, some bedding, towels, clothes, food, cookware, folding chairs, and you be much closer to the 3800# mark!
The towing capacity assumes 2 passengers at 150# each, full gas tank, and NOTHING else. No more passengers, no cargo or tools. NOTHING else in the vehicle. The towing capacity must include the ACTUAL weight of the LOADED camper, plus the WD hitch weight, plus all passengers, car seats, snacks and cargo in the truck or van, minus that 300# allowance.
The Frontier will be close to the limits when you get all loaded up, but you should be okay. Leave the Odyssey in the drive or take both cars.
Both campers have a GVWR just under 3800#. As such, the Odyssey is a non starter. Here is why.
The GVWR is the most the camper can weigh, fully loaded. The dry wt is the weight without anything in the camper. Fill the propane tanks, add a battery, water and sewer hoses, some bedding, towels, clothes, food, cookware, folding chairs, and you be much closer to the 3800# mark!
The towing capacity assumes 2 passengers at 150# each, full gas tank, and NOTHING else. No more passengers, no cargo or tools. NOTHING else in the vehicle. The towing capacity must include the ACTUAL weight of the LOADED camper, plus the WD hitch weight, plus all passengers, car seats, snacks and cargo in the truck or van, minus that 300# allowance.
The Frontier will be close to the limits when you get all loaded up, but you should be okay. Leave the Odyssey in the drive or take both cars.
Thanks so much, grashley for your reply and for the welcome! We are new to RVing, and all information is appreciated and needed. Salespeople keep trying to convince us that towing with the van is a good option. If we buy their rig--of course--it's possible! Do you have any thoughts on which trailer you would favor in terms of quality and durability
grashley
Well-known member
Salesmen want to sell campers. Most are too stupid or too selfish to care about weight limits. They want the commission check! Car and truck salesmen are often worse on this count!
All NEW campers have a chance of problems. It is just how it is. Here is a good explanation why.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-3kzOwaOQ8
I suggest a 2 or 3 year old used unit, gently used. You save money, you let the other guy get all those little things fixed, and spend time camping, not running back to the dealer.
Sites like RVTrader let you filter out all but your desired model, and sort by distance.
Both are decent entry level units. Pick the floor plan you prefer.
All NEW campers have a chance of problems. It is just how it is. Here is a good explanation why.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-3kzOwaOQ8
I suggest a 2 or 3 year old used unit, gently used. You save money, you let the other guy get all those little things fixed, and spend time camping, not running back to the dealer.
Sites like RVTrader let you filter out all but your desired model, and sort by distance.
Both are decent entry level units. Pick the floor plan you prefer.
Thanks again for your advice and thoughts. That is an interesting video. It helps to explain why we read so much about new RV's presenting with a boatload of problems. We have wondered about purchasing a used RV, and have hit a couple of walls regarding how to do it without getting totally stung. One of our biggest fears is buying used and finding leaks and damage (like mold, etc) under something that looks pretty good cosmetically. Do you have any advice on how to get around these kinds of risks when buying used? Also, if you buy off of a website like RVTrader, do most people usually just search locally or is there a method for buying at a distance? Is RVTrader better than Craig's List? Forgive my questions. I know they are likely pretty obvious, but I really appreciate the chance to ask them.
grashley
Well-known member
Answering questions is one reason I am here. I have learned sooo much, it is a privilege to help others.
You can search as wide or as small an area as you wish on RVTrader. Many of their listings are dealer listings, but there are private sales as well. I feel there is less of a chance of a scam on RVTrader.
Newer used TT should have fewer problems than older ones, BUT.. At the top of the page, click Library. There are several articles and checklists there for PDI, or Pre Delivery Inspection. The main deal killer is water damage. The signs are soft spots in the floor or wall (inside or out), water stains, mildew and musty odors. Open EVERY cabinet door and drawer, and look for any of these with a flashlight. Yes, this WILL take some time. Make sure the refrigerator works, water heater, furnace, A/C, water pump, slides, tongue jack..... If you find non water issues, you can either insist they be fixed or use it to lower the price. All this helps avoid surprises. You may want to click on the Search above, and enter PDI.
Keep asking questions!
You can search as wide or as small an area as you wish on RVTrader. Many of their listings are dealer listings, but there are private sales as well. I feel there is less of a chance of a scam on RVTrader.
Newer used TT should have fewer problems than older ones, BUT.. At the top of the page, click Library. There are several articles and checklists there for PDI, or Pre Delivery Inspection. The main deal killer is water damage. The signs are soft spots in the floor or wall (inside or out), water stains, mildew and musty odors. Open EVERY cabinet door and drawer, and look for any of these with a flashlight. Yes, this WILL take some time. Make sure the refrigerator works, water heater, furnace, A/C, water pump, slides, tongue jack..... If you find non water issues, you can either insist they be fixed or use it to lower the price. All this helps avoid surprises. You may want to click on the Search above, and enter PDI.
Keep asking questions!
Hello,
I wanted to thank you for being so willing to answer my questions. We didn't get the Wolf Pup. We drove to the dealership from another state and they had sold all in stock. So I guess we're looking at the Viking. I really do wish we knew how to adequately search for damage in a used RV, but I don't think we trust we won't miss something. We just aren't knowledgeable enough about RVs and what can go wrong. All the information you shared with my family was hugely helpful. Thanks again!!!!!!!
I wanted to thank you for being so willing to answer my questions. We didn't get the Wolf Pup. We drove to the dealership from another state and they had sold all in stock. So I guess we're looking at the Viking. I really do wish we knew how to adequately search for damage in a used RV, but I don't think we trust we won't miss something. We just aren't knowledgeable enough about RVs and what can go wrong. All the information you shared with my family was hugely helpful. Thanks again!!!!!!!
grashley
Well-known member
If you find a used unit that checks off all your must haves, you can hire an independent RV Tech to do an inspection. You can make it as simple or thorough as you are willing to pay for.
Ernie n Tara
Well-known member
Ask for recommendations at a local rv park as to mobile rv technicians.
Ernie
Ernie
Thank you Grashley and Ernie for your replies to my post. We made a deal on a travel trailer today! I hope it was a good deal and that we have made the right choice. Big purchases make me nervous. But we ended up getting a 2018 Viking Ultra Lite 17BH. We are super excited to get on the road! In the end, there just weren't many used trailers in our area that fit our weight restrictions, so we went with what would help us get our family out on the road for summer. I am so grateful for your correspondence and guidance. Thank you so much.
grashley
Well-known member
CONGRATULATIONS! You have done enough homework to know it was a decent price.
I suggest you spend a bit of time here every day reading posts. You will learn all kinds of things you never knew you needed to know! Remember to avoid the dreaded POO PILE!
I suggest you spend a bit of time here every day reading posts. You will learn all kinds of things you never knew you needed to know! Remember to avoid the dreaded POO PILE!
Thanks for the congratulations! I do feel like we have a ton to learn, but this forum just seems awesome. I'm guessing that the poo pile has to do with proper black water emptying? If you have any helpful hints to avoid this horrible sounding event, please feel free to lay them on me!
grashley
Well-known member
If you leave the black tank valve open when in a full hookup site, all the liquid will drain and the solids will collect. Over time the pile acquires the consistency of concrete. To avoid this, add 5 gal of water to your black tank as soon as it is emptied and the valve closed. This becomes a welcoming committee for all deposits. Wait until the tank is ⅔ full to empty it. If you need to empty before it is ⅔ full, add water to that level, then empty This helps provide the volume for better results. Rinse the tank if possible. After this, add the 5 gal welcoming committee. Now empty the gray tank to help flush the drain line.
If you read posts in General and TT and FW boards for the next few months, you will learn things like this and many more helpful hints. That is how I learned most of my RV lessons.
Let the education begin!
If you read posts in General and TT and FW boards for the next few months, you will learn things like this and many more helpful hints. That is how I learned most of my RV lessons.
Let the education begin!
Wow, I'm glad you warned me about that one. I started researching it after your post and I found a section that said Rid X is ok to use rather than the typical RV chemicals. Is that true? What do you use? I have also been cruising the other message boards on this forum. It is super informative. The two things I can't seem to figure out that I would value your advice on is:
1. The fridge of our new RV is way too small for a family of 5. Which is why we were also looking at the Wolf Pup--which was sold out of inventory before we got to the dealership. Thus we got the Viking because it had everything we wanted except for a larger fridge. You had mentioned in your first post that our Frontier truck with a 5K towing capacity would be at its limit with a 2800 dry weight trailer like the Viking. What do people do to get more fridge/freezer space but not compromise their towing weight? Also, there's the space issuse... Any thoughts?
2. Second is my concerns about laundry. We have three teenagers. Do you or your wife have any hacks to do laundry on the road so you don't have to frequent laundromats? I was just wondering if there's some type of rv gadget that people use to do laundry in smaller loads.
Thanks again for all your advice and information. It has been such a blessing to me as I'm trying to figure out how this will work for our family.
1. The fridge of our new RV is way too small for a family of 5. Which is why we were also looking at the Wolf Pup--which was sold out of inventory before we got to the dealership. Thus we got the Viking because it had everything we wanted except for a larger fridge. You had mentioned in your first post that our Frontier truck with a 5K towing capacity would be at its limit with a 2800 dry weight trailer like the Viking. What do people do to get more fridge/freezer space but not compromise their towing weight? Also, there's the space issuse... Any thoughts?
2. Second is my concerns about laundry. We have three teenagers. Do you or your wife have any hacks to do laundry on the road so you don't have to frequent laundromats? I was just wondering if there's some type of rv gadget that people use to do laundry in smaller loads.
Thanks again for all your advice and information. It has been such a blessing to me as I'm trying to figure out how this will work for our family.
HappyWanderer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2014
- Posts
- 2,967
As to toilet chemicals, they are not necessary. Water is all that's needed.
For refrigerator space, try carrying an ice chest for beverages in the back of the truck. Pulling those items out of the fridge will gain lots of space.
Laundry can be a challenge. It's either laundromats or wash things in the sink and hang them to dry.
For refrigerator space, try carrying an ice chest for beverages in the back of the truck. Pulling those items out of the fridge will gain lots of space.
Laundry can be a challenge. It's either laundromats or wash things in the sink and hang them to dry.
grashley
Well-known member
I totally agree with Happy.
If you do the 5 gal of water after every dump, you should keep the solids submerged and have no odor. Here is a recipe for a home brew odor treatment.
Been camping for 40+ years and dealt with sewer systems the majority of that time. Hate the smell, especially as temps jump into the 90's. I used the chemicals, both blue and yellow, then tried going without. The smell got to be too much. I full time and follow the good weather. I googled sewer treatments and found this recipe. It's low cost, lasts a long time and helps keep the sensors clean, especially in my 23 year old rig.
In a one gallon plastic jug mix:
8 oz. Arm and Hammer baking soda
8 oz. Pine Sol
8 oz. Liquid fabric softener
8 oz. Household ammonia
Finish filling the jug with water and shake well to mix ingredients.Pour one cup down the toilet and each sink. Add at least a gallon of water to each empty holding tank, if dry camping.
This has worked great for me and totally kills the odors.
Ice chest for beverages reduces opening the fridge and probably traffic in and out of the camper.
I'm afraid laundry solutions are laundromats or hand laundry. Threaten the ladies with a scrubbing board if they wear more than two outfits a day
If you do, you are a braver man than I!
If you do the 5 gal of water after every dump, you should keep the solids submerged and have no odor. Here is a recipe for a home brew odor treatment.
Been camping for 40+ years and dealt with sewer systems the majority of that time. Hate the smell, especially as temps jump into the 90's. I used the chemicals, both blue and yellow, then tried going without. The smell got to be too much. I full time and follow the good weather. I googled sewer treatments and found this recipe. It's low cost, lasts a long time and helps keep the sensors clean, especially in my 23 year old rig.
In a one gallon plastic jug mix:
8 oz. Arm and Hammer baking soda
8 oz. Pine Sol
8 oz. Liquid fabric softener
8 oz. Household ammonia
Finish filling the jug with water and shake well to mix ingredients.Pour one cup down the toilet and each sink. Add at least a gallon of water to each empty holding tank, if dry camping.
This has worked great for me and totally kills the odors.
Ice chest for beverages reduces opening the fridge and probably traffic in and out of the camper.
I'm afraid laundry solutions are laundromats or hand laundry. Threaten the ladies with a scrubbing board if they wear more than two outfits a day
If you do, you are a braver man than I!
Larry N.
Well-known member
As they said above, water is the chemical you need, and don't skimp on it. RidX is not something you'd add on a regular basis, but rather to help eliminate buildup if you've somehow gotten that "poop pyramid." It takes time to work, and isn't merely an odor eliminator.
I want to thank all of you for walking my family through this process. Your advice and input helped push us over the edge. We now own an rv, and are taking it out for the first time! This is such a dream for our family, and we can't wait to start this chapter. Grashley, you really stuck with us from the contemplating of the model through the purchase and now we're actually getting to experience camping with our kids! Thank you. And, your advice on being aware of the POO PILE will forever go down in history with us as one of the best newbie pieces of advice we never knew we needed! Finding this forum has been a true blessing.
