2003 Thor Wanderer Wide Lite - No 12 Volt DC Power

Hello all, new to the rvforum site, happy to join you all!! I am hoping to receive some guidance with my 2003 26' Thor Wanderer Wide Lite. I have owned my trailer for almost 5 years now and up to this point, the 12 volt DC system has worked properly. This year when I was performing spring maintenance and functional checks, i noticed that the 12 volt DC system was not working at all. I was running 2, 4 year old 12 volt "deep cycle" batteries. The batteries wouldn't hold a charge and I confirmed they needed to be replaced with my local provider. I upgraded to 2, 6 volt deep cycle batteries and am running them in series to achieve the proper voltage. After upgrading the batteries, to my surprise, the 12 volt DC system is still not working. My converter/charger system is a Parallax 6435. 110 Volt AC and all 12 Volt functions work fine when connected to shore power and generator. I am hoping someone can help me solve this issue  ;D. I recently found the Parallax manual and am reviewing so I can test further but i'm hoping someone can help me avoid a lot of time and aggravation. 

Here is what I have checked/found thus far:

• Confirmed that I have 12+ volts at the battery terminals
  
• Checked all 15 amp fuses in the DC distribution panel, they all were good, not blown
  
• Checked 25 amp fuse in utility panel on outside of trailer, not blown
  
• Checked 5 amp fuse in utility panel on outside of trailer, not blown
  
• Checked 10 amp fuse connected to water pump, not blown
  
• Confirmed that I do not have any power at the DC side of the distribution panel
  
• Replaced all of the connectors (2 +, 2 -, 1 series wire) that attach to the batteries to ensure good connection
  

I'm not sure if there are other fuses in this trailer that need to be checked, I haven't been able to locate any others. I did find what looks like a Type 1 circuit breaker attached to the frame, one of my 2 positive wires from the battery is connected to one end; and a positive wire goes from the other end to my converter (i believe). This breaker and the wire connectors look very corroded, not sure if that could be the issue.

Any suggestions or recommendations? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!!  )

ClinterCampr said:

I did find what looks like a Type 1 circuit breaker attached to the frame, one of my 2 positive wires from the battery is connected to one end; and a positive wire goes from the other end to my converter (i believe). This breaker and the wire connectors look very corroded, not sure if that could be the issue.

Click to expand...

Of course you have to clean them up. There's a good chance, that's where your problem is IMHO. While you're at it, check for continuity of that breaker with a meter. All the power from the battery goes through that.

Thanks for your reply! I will try that and update whether it resolved my issue.

Hello! I ended up replacing the breaker, due to corrosion and the terminals as well. I am now showing continuity on both sides of the breaker, however, still no 12v DC power. I checked the converter connections again and no power at the DC side of the converter. Converter relay/switching issue? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance for all the help!!

On a 2003 I would hope you have a decent converter not a magnetek, and most decent converters do not have relays or switching at least not on the DC side.

You do, or should have a switch somewhere. It may be a toggle or a 3-position Rocker, Likely marked USE/Store or AUX  if a 3 position it is spring return to Center

Press the USE(on) side and if you do NOT hear a clunk we have a clue.. If you do find out what is clunking and check for voltage there (Battery disconnect solenoid)

But before that measure voltage between battery positive and CHASSIS, not battery negative.. You had a bad Positive connetion. what are the odds you have a bad GROUND connection??? (high) as well?

IF the solenoid does nto clunk... Multiple options for this step but step one is to remove 12 volt power from said switch.  You can pull the fuse that feed it (if you can identify) or disconnect leads from the switch (not necessarly the easiest) or disconnect PHYSICALLY both the house, and if a motor home the chassis batteries.  Wait, turn on a light or some such to insure no power.

Cycle the switch liek 50 times USE/Store/USE/Store

Restore power (turn off light) and see if it now works.. Mine did

NOTE: THis is a first step. If it works. Then you need to make a decision
Buy lotto tickets cause "When you hot, you hot"
Do not buy lotto tickets cause you used up your quota of Luck for the day/week/month.

And if it does not work this "Fix" comes with the ultimate money back guarantee.
Works or not yoru FREE is hearby cheerfully refunded

Let us know.

IF IT DOES NOT WORK

now you are in for power tracking
I use a test light. make sure I have a good ground on the ground clip and touch the TIP of hte probe to each point along the positive lead in series starting with the battry.
Bright gooo
Dark bad
problem exists between last BRIGHT and first Dark.

  John From Detroit......
    You could make a heck of a living at an RV electrical repair guy. Most of your posts are way over my head in your in-depth troubleshooting sugesstions. ? ??

Hi John from Detroit, unfortunately I am running a Magnatek 6435. I am to the point where I want to replace the converter/charger altogether.  Anyone have any recommendations on replacements?

Almost anything on the market today would be better, i.e. a multi-stage charger.  There are some good replacement units from Progressive Dynamics and WFCO. Some options shown here:

http://www.bestconverter.com/Parallax-Magnetek-Converters_c_68.html

They offer a new Parallax in place of a 64xx, but I would still lean toward a PD 4000 series power center or a WFCO 8700 series.

You can also do a partial replacement, disconnecting the converter portion of the 6435 and connecting a deck mount converter/charger in its place.

ClinterCampr said:

Hi John from Detroit, unfortunately I am running a Magnatek 6435. I am to the point where I want to replace the converter/charger altogether.  Anyone have any recommendations on replacements?

Click to expand...

You have two choices.
progressive Dynamics 4600 Series I think the smallest may be a 4660 but you want the smallest.. This replaces the back half The electronics you use the same breaker and fuse panels and same fuses and breakers.

Or you can replace the whole shebang with a different PD product.  which upgrades you to blade fuses.  Same breakers however.

Great, thanks for the guidance! I will update the post once I get the upgrade completed, thanks all for your help!

Hello all, after fixing a problematic ground connection and upgrading my converter to PD4600, I am happy to report that my issues are resolved! Thanks all for your advice.