30amp Receptacle
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Rene T
Site Team
I can't answer your question I just wanted to relay to you to make sure this guy knows that this 30 Amp RV receptacle which is 110 Volt and not 240 Volt. If he wires it wrong, it will fry everything in your rig.
Alaskansnowbirds
Site Team
For that little bit of romex showing I wouldn't worry about it.
What gauge wire is that romex? I think for 30amp it has to be at least 10 gauge.
I would take a meter and check to make sure there is only 120 volts across the two angled pins.
What gauge wire is that romex? I think for 30amp it has to be at least 10 gauge.
I would take a meter and check to make sure there is only 120 volts across the two angled pins.
He put it on a 30amp single pole breaker (which I can see in my box) and he assured me it wouldn't fry the rig. I thought you would need a double pole for 240v? As you can tell, I really don't know much about electrical work or code.
grashley
Well-known member
You are correct. It requires a double breaker for 240V in residential wiring. You were wise to ask the question!
The ONLY problem with exposed Romex is, depending on the sheathing, it MAY degrade from sunshine over time. I suspect your electrician used an appropriate wire, so you have no issues there.
The ONLY problem with exposed Romex is, depending on the sheathing, it MAY degrade from sunshine over time. I suspect your electrician used an appropriate wire, so you have no issues there.
Lou Schneider
Site Team
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- Mar 14, 2005
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- 13,245
Alaskansnowbirds said:
Romex sheathing is color coded to indicate the gauge of wire:
White: 14 gauge (15 amps)
Yellow: 12 gauge (20 amps)
Orange: 10 gauge (30 amps)
Gray: Underground Rated (all sizes)
Romex is designed to be used without conduit. The sheathing provides the necessary protection for the wires.
The sheathing shown is Orange, so it's the proper 10 gauge wire for this application. I wouldn't worry about that exposed inch or so of sheathing. It's underneath the box so it's somewhat protected from the elements.
Ghostman
Well-known member
The romex he used is 10 Gauge as long as it is connected to a single and not double breaker you are fine. It should be uv romex for outdoor use which would be gray. I am not sure why he didn't move the box down to just enter the romex straight into the box instead if how he did it. That is coming from a Licensed home inspector though. What you have will be fine.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
YOU would need to check your local code but Romex does not need to be in Conduit in many cases.
xrated
Well-known member
It will probably be fine the way it is, but technically, Romex is not allowed in wet locations unless it's NM-C. I agree with Ghostman....he should have just come through the wall and directly into the box...from the back.
NY_Dutch
Well-known member
I haven't installed any Eaton 30 or 50 amp boxes in awhile, but I don't recall them having knockouts on the back.
SargeW
Site Team
Shoot, he wire clamped it, and caulked the hole where it came out of the building. He did a pretty good job! As long as the connections are tight and the breaker is sized right, you got a great job.
O
Oscar Mike
Guest
^^^ What Marty said. Looks like a good installation. For a 100% code compliant install that little bit of Romex would be in conduit. Being that it is not going to be exposed to a lot of misuse I wouldn't worry about it.
xrated
Well-known member
NY_Dutch said:
That's what a knockout set is for.....I have both the manual (turn it with a wrench) and a hydraulic set.....1/2" up to 2" conduit size.
I'll be installing a similar one (50A) on the side of my garage and next to where the T.H. is parked this fall. I'm just not wanting to get up in the attic of my garage right now and run a circuit through the hot attic during the middle of summer. If the box doesn't have a knockout on the back of it, it will have when I'm done.
NY_Dutch
Well-known member
xrated said:
Of course you can add one where you want it, but that's going to take extra time. If the job was quoted flat rate, it's not going to happen...
xrated
Well-known member
NY_Dutch said:
LOL.....yea, I know, but then again, the only Electrical work I do is at work....unless it for me. And realistically, it would take about 2-3 minutes to drill a hole in the box and put the knockout in there and make a hole. There are advantages of being an Electrician....it's the plumbing/carpentry/other stuff that I have a lot less skills at! ;D
Ghostman
Well-known member
Don't take very long to drill a hole and do it right. But like I said it will work fine.
Prior member
Well-known member
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- Jan 20, 2015
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It is not in accordance with the NEC, but it is the way I would do it.
Jack L
Jack L
