Water Pump Replacement

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grashley

grashley

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Joined
May 7, 2015
Posts
6,610
Location
Western Kentucky
My FloJet 03526-144 water pump has died.  As reported earlier, it was not pumping well.  The outside head screws were tight, but I pulled the head to see if there was an obvious problem inside.  I found nothing and reattached the head.  Two screws were stripped simply by taking them out!  I tried to run the pump, and within about 3 minutes, the entire head came off!  On prior search, replacement parts are not available.

Time to replace.
Specs on current pump are 2.9 GPM, 50 Psi max, 4.4Amp @ 10 Psi  $77 on RVUpgrades (cheaper elsewhere)

Since a shower head really would like 2.5 GPM or more at 40 Psi, which this pump can not provide (GPM goes down as Psi increase), do I really need a bigger pump?  For instance, a Remco 5267- delivers 5.0 GPM and 60 Psi max and 2.6 GPM @ 40Psi for $98 on RVUpgrades.

1.  Do you recommend a higher capacity / quality than the original pump?
2.  Will a 60 Psi pump damage my piping in the camper?  Should I add an in line regulator for 40 Psi?  Can you change the pump regulator?
3.  What specific brands can you recommend or suggest avoiding?  I know FlowMax is a Lippert brand.
4.  Any comments good or bad on Remco.  I know their pump is US made per their web site.
5.  My current pump has quick connect fittings on the pump.  Are these universal, so my current plumbing would connect directly to another manufacturers quick connect?
 
Your plumbing was pressure tested to about 90 psi at the factory, so no worries.  Yes, a higher gpm pump will be much appreciated, at least 3.5 psi and 4-5 is better. So will a variable flow pump, if the budget permits, e.g. the Remco Aquajet.    Just make sure that your circuit can handle the higher amps that a larger pump will draw.  If you have a pump controller (you surely do if there is more than one on/off switch), it has to switch the higher amps too. A big pump can pull 10+ amps.

Upgraded pump control:  https://rvpowerhouse.com/product/intellitec-15-amp-water-pump-controller-00-00776-200/


https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Aquajet-RV-Water-Pump-p/aquajetrv.htm
 
Here's a fairly recent topic in the Winnebago board:

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,112611.0.html
 
Goat:  THANKS! Great link.

Gary:  Thanks as usual!  Under what circumstances would I need a Pump Controller?  I do not believe I have one now.  The pump has a single ON/OFF switch in the main control center, along with the HWH  ON/OFF switches for LP and 120V operation.  It is currently on a 10 Amp fuse.

ALL:  Will the quick connect fittings from the FloJet pump work on the Remco quick connect fittings?  Do I need to buy Remco fittings?
 
A pump controller is just a relay. The fused power wire runs direct to the pump but the pump ground wire (aka "low side") goes to the controller relay and from there to actual 12v ground.  It is used for two situations:

1. A single pump switch, but the switch is located far from the pump or the power source. Cheaper/easier to use short power wires and small-gauge wire to the remote switch

2. Multiple pump switches. The controller switches the power circuit and the various remote single pole switches simply tell the controller whether the pump should be on or off.  You can turn the pump on or off from any switch. Simpler and cheaper than 3-way or 4-way switch wiring in most cases.

You will want to follow the ground side wire from the pump to see if there is a controller.  Or follow the wires from the switch to see if they go to a controller instead of direct to the pump.
 
Assuming you are using the pump when you don't have hookups, the down side with higher pressure/higher flow, is you use more water, i.e. empty the fresh water tank sooner and fill the gray tank sooner.
 
My final question on this topic, I hope!

I am replacing a 10A pump with a 15A pump.  It currently has 16 Ga wire to the pump and to the only switch,  so I assume no controller.  Switch is in main control box, directly above the fuse / breaker box.  About 17 ft from fuse to switch to pump and 2 ft from pump to ground.

Current switch is 10Amp.

Is the 16 Ga wire sufficient?  Should be upgraded?  MUST be upgraded?  14Ga?  12Ga?

Replace the 10A switch with one rated at 15A?

Thanks, all!
 
15A is asking a lot of 16 gauge wire, but the pump seldom runs for very long.  It's probably not going to burn up or anything, but I would change both switch & wire when I had the time. An alternative is to install a power relay with a 14 or 12 gauge wiring and use the existing switch and 16 gauge to trigger the relay.  Often easier than pulling new wire to the existing switch location.
 
You are going to have a fair amount of voltage drop from the battery across 19'-20' of 16 gauge to the pump and on to ground. With the voltage drop the pump is going to run somewhat slower and you will have lower water pressure and volume.

If the wire is pretty much exposed so you can just run a heavier wire, I would run 12 gauge or better yet 10 gauge.  The cost difference between 12 gauge and 10 gauge is not much so if you do run new wire I would go with the #10.  If the wiring is buried in the wall or floor I would just leave it with the #16. 
 
FINALLY DONE!!!!!

I finally got the lower humidity and energy to install the new pump.  It was a 20 minute job.  Due to different fittings, cut off the old hoses and remove the pump.  Slide hoses on to the new (supplied) ?" hose barb to  ?" FPT.  Wire new pump in and connect the two hand tight fittings.

When I turned it on, I could barely hear it running over the A/C.  Within a couple minutes, the pump was primed, the system pressured up, and pump shut off.  NO LEAKS!!

HAPPY CAMPER!  THANKS ALL FOR YOUR HELP!
 
I also always carry a spare. I have all the fittings already on and put quick connects on the electrical lines. Nothing worse than being on vacation and pump quits. 10 mins and it's fixed. Just some FYI
 
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