Weight Distribution Setup Question

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bigus_d

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Jul 5, 2017
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Looking for advise on my Weight Distribution setup.
F250 6.7L pulling Coleman 263bh... 
http://www.fleet.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/towingguides/Ford_Linc_16RVTTgde_r2_Oct23.pdf
http://www.dutchmen.com/coleman/floorplans-and-pictures/floorplan-details?modelId=24600
https://www.eaz-lift.com/product-page/eaz-lift-1000lb-elite-hitch-kit
http://davidsrvtips.blogspot.com/2009/02/hitch-setup_2781.html

I'm 99% sure I'm good on total weight.  If I understand correctly, I don't even technically require a weight distribution setup for this rig (but I have it so I'm going to use it)?

I'm trying to decide between two ball heights.

The lower height gave me the following results:
Without WD the trailer front dropped 3.25" from level and the truck front raised 1.25".  With WD trailer dropped 2" and truck front raised .75".  This was with the ball angle as aggressive as possible. 

So I raised the ball to the next available spot:
Without WD trailer front dropped 2" and truck front raised the same 1.25".  With WD the trailer front is now raised 0.25" and the truck front is raised 0.25".

The new setup seems like the better one...    What do you think?

 
New...1/4" is nothing so everything is basically level. A benefit is if you need to do a quick pull-in/out overnighter, your TT is level so you don't even need to unhitch.
 
Sounds ok to me, but did you try adjusting the WD spring bars instead of the ball height or angle?  You can shift weight from truck rear axle to the front (decreasing front rise) simply by tightening the tension on the bars.  You may need to do this as the loaded weight of the trailer changes, e.g. towing empty vs full, with or without water in the tanks, etc.  The spring bars are your primary WD tuning method. Ball height & angle are pretty much a one-time setting.
 
Gary... yes... with the ball at the lower setting I went from zero angle to full angle.  The full angle results were the best at bringing the front of the truck down and those were the results I posted.  When I went up I removed most of the angle (and then added a little back to get the new results). 
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
Sounds ok to me, but did you try adjusting the WD spring bars instead of the ball height or angle?  You can shift weight from truck rear axle to the front (decreasing front rise) simply by tightening the tension on the bars.
Click to expand...

Changing the ball angle also changes the hitch head angle, affecting the spring bar tension just the same as changing the spring bar chain lengths.

If you shorten the chains, you have to be sure you don't wind up with the chains shorter than the minimum allowable length.  If the chains are too short the bars will bind while turning.
 
It makes no sense to level the trailer without the weight bars attached because when you attach them it will no longer be level it will be nose high by a couple inches. Start with the front an inch or two too low before the bars are attached.

Measure the front fender height, ignore the rear and the trailer for now. Place a piece of tape on the fender and measure to the bottom of the tape with no trailer attached to the truck. Then measure that same piece of tape with the trailer attached but no bars hooked up. Then attach the bars and measure again. Hopefully the last measurement falls halfway or more between the first measurement and the last one. Just do not let the last measurement be below the first one. In other words if the truck without the trailer has a fender height of 34 inches and with the trailer but no bars measures 36 inches then with the bars hooked up it should measure between 34 and 35 inches but no less than 34. Ideal would be 34.5

Once you get that set then worry about getting the ball at the perfect height. You may have to play with the adjustments a couple times before you get it perfect as changing one will slightly change the other.

The sag of the rear of the truck is just going to be what it is. Restoring the front fender is what the hitch was designed to do and the truck will look level when you get it right.
 
I have to buy a WDH also. Never done that before. They sell for $350, but the local RV place charges $500 total with this install...seems a bit much
 
I have to buy a WDH also. Never done that before. They sell for $350, but the local RV place charges $500 total with this install...seems a bit much
Click to expand...
It's an hour or so labor to bolt the hitch components on the trailer and adjust the hitch, so $500 is actually reasonable (at RV dealer labor rates, which run $100-$150 per hour).  But you could do it yourself if you can read instructions and know how to wield a socket wrench.
 
I suggest installing yourself...  Camping world did my original install, and I KNOW they didn't get it setup right.  I mean, it was on there, but it wasn't living up to its full potential.
 
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