Electrical and/or breaker problem

Since beginning our summer vacation trip, I have had an issue with the driver's door control panel. I have no power window, power mirror or heated mirror. I have traced the problem through the door, pulling the connector plugs apart and testing the connectors, and have found no power getting to the controls. This leads me to believe I have a fuse or breaker problem. I checked the owner's manual to find the fuse diagram, finding only one breaker for all those items. Upon taking the plastic fuse panel cover off, I find the breaker properly marked. It is a small, round, white button labeled 15, so I assume it is a 15 amp breaker. However, the breakers I am used to that look like this press in to reset. This one does not. In fact, all of the same kind of breakers located in this panel are the same, with none of them pressing in or coming out for a reset or test. The fuse panel these breakers are located in is metal and I can't see how to get it loose to get to the back of it and there isn't enough room for me to get my hand back behind it to work the breaker loose after taking its retaining nut off the front of the panel.

Does anyone have experience with this type of breaker and can tell me how to handle this problem? I am assuming, possibly prematurely, that the breaker either needs to be reset or replaced, but I can't figure out how to do either. Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

You can see the breakers on page 3 of the Front End Wiring Installation diagram for your coach.  Those 12V breakers pop out about 3/8" when they are triggered, and you just push them back in to reset them.  I don't know of any specific way to test them.

cbeierl said:

You can see the breakers on page 3 of the Front End Wiring Installation diagram for your coach.  Those 12V breakers pop out about 3/8" when they are triggered, and you just push them back in to reset them.  I don't know of any specific way to test them.

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Chris, thanks for the info and the diagram link. My problem is that the breaker apparently hasn't tripped because it isn't sticking out the ⅜" you mentioned. I'm not sure what to do at this point other than take it to a qualified mechanic because I can't get behind that panel. If there is a wire that has come loose behind the panel, that could be the problem rather than the breaker, but I'm not sure how that could have happened.

Where are you picking up the ground for your voltage testing in the door? Try from a known good ground, it may be the ground side that is open.

Looking at the Automotive Wiring Diagram for your coach, the earlier posted Front End Wiring diagram, and the Wiring Identification Guide you can see that the 12V power to those breakers is supplied by a wire labeled DDG (DDG / 10 YEL CIRCUIT BREAKER BUSS BAR CHASSIS BATTERY FEED CIRCUIT BREAKER).  The wire labeled WJ (WJ / 12 YEL OVERCURRENT PROTECTION (20A BREAKER TYPICAL) IGNITION SWITCH ACCESSORY FEED RELAY) then goes from the breaker to the POWER MIRRORS RELAY under the dash pod.  Perhaps you can access the wire from the breaker there and ascertain whether or not you have power at that point.

John Hilley said:

Where are you picking up the ground for your voltage testing in the door? Try from a known good ground, it may be the ground side that is open.

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I touched three different screws on the door frame and had no luck.

cbeierl said:

Looking at the Automotive Wiring Diagram for your coach, the earlier posted Front End Wiring diagram, and the Wiring Identification Guide you can see that the 12V power to those breakers is supplied by a wire labeled DDG (DDG / 10 YEL CIRCUIT BREAKER BUSS BAR CHASSIS BATTERY FEED CIRCUIT BREAKER).  The wire labeled WJ (WJ / 12 YEL OVERCURRENT PROTECTION (20A BREAKER TYPICAL) IGNITION SWITCH ACCESSORY FEED RELAY) then goes from the breaker to the POWER MIRRORS RELAY under the dash pod.  Perhaps you can access the wire from the breaker there and ascertain whether or not you have power at that point.

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Chris, my apologies, but what you said above is way over my head. I'm not an electrician; just a guy trying to DIY. My first concern would be trying to figure out how to get to the wiring and then determine which wire is which.

Winnebago labels the 12V wiring every few inches.  You can look up the labels in the wiring identification guide linked earlier.

One problem I have seen in many vehicles with 10+ years of age the wiring in the harness from door to body through the boot has a tendency to break down from years of use. I don't know if this is an issue in your case since class A Motorhome drivers doors tend not to be used very often. Your inginition switch always makes a good ground.

Ghostman said:

One problem I have seen in many vehicles with 10+ years of age the wiring in the harness from door to body through the boot has a tendency to break down from years of use. I don't know if this is an issue in your case since class A Motorhome drivers doors tend not to be used very often. Your inginition switch always makes a good ground.

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A good, but moot point in this case. When I tore into the door and boot, the wire looked brand new the entire path as far as I could follow it, even past the connector plugs.

So far, I have tried accessing the wiring and fuse panel through the door. Today, I'll lay down in front of the driver's seat and find out what I can see from that angle. I still don't know how to replace the breaker if it is bad because I don't know if that metal panel can be removed.

John Stephens said:

I touched three different screws on the door frame and had no luck.

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Those screws may or not be a good electrical ground. You have to find a ground by testing from a potential ground to a known 12 volt positive. When you get a good known ground, then test from that point to the wiring harness and switches.

Watch this

https://youtu.be/LGWhzTuJroQ

John Stephens said:

A good, but moot point in this case. When I tore into the door and boot, the wire looked brand new the entire path as far as I could follow it, even past the connector plugs.

So far, I have tried accessing the wiring and fuse panel through the door. Today, I'll lay down in front of the driver's seat and find out what I can see from that angle. I still don't know how to replace the breaker if it is bad because I don't know if that metal panel can be removed.

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I doubt your breaker is bad. The panel can be removed sone how. You may have to contact Winnebago to find out how.