transfer switch

Okay, not going to be able to really diagnose this for a few days until we reach our summer home and have shore power available, but thought I'd get a jump in it.
My coach has a Powertek PDC1001 power distribution panel.  According to the 2 pieces of paper in my briefcase full of manuals the 120v ATC switch for the coach is built into the back of this unit. 
We've been boondocking for several days while waiting on a new oil cooler for the V-10.  We've been running the genny for a couple hours in the morning to make coffee, charge our laptops and house batteries and maybe run a small fan. 
Yesterday, out of the blue, the Powertek unit started buzzing and the coach lost 110v power.  Generator never missed a lick.  I checked all the breakers, reset all of them, the 2 on the genny and all the ones on the power panel with no result.  Killed the genny and went about our day.
This morning, I fired up the genny and all behaved normally for about 2 hours, then the power died and the box started buzzing again.  I pulled the access panel next to the power panel(what a friggin' rats nest back there!)and I see a second transfer switch box(rated at 15amps).  I assume this is operated by the manual switch that switches between the microwave and the washer/dryer.  I could still feel the PDC box vibrating, so I'm still convinced that's probably the problem. 
Deal is, I can't find any troubleshooting info on this box on-line.  As far as finding parts, I see Colaw would be more than happy to sell me a complete, used power center.  Don't want to go that way if I can avoid it.
Anyway, like I said, I won't be able to really check it out until next week when I have shore power available also, but any hints/tricks would be welcome.  I did see one post from 2011 where Just Lou talked about this power center, but nothing was really resolved in that thread.

Have you checked the circuit breaker, or circuit breakers, in/on your inverter.

This is not scientific (well, maybe it is from a mechanical standpoint) but if you experience that situation, try and tap the metal box housing with a hammer. If the internal switch is stuck, it can get it seated correctly. You might remember doing that with starters on old cars, to get the solenoid engaged. Similar principle.

Long-term, I don't know if these switches can be disassembled and repaired, or if you'd just have to replace the whole unit.

Mel, strictly old school.  No inverter, 2 GC2's, a PD9150 w/dongle and a generator. 
I believe it's the contacts in the transfer switch.  All the wire connections on the breakers were recently checked for a different issue. 
My intention is to buy a replacement transfer switch if I can find one.  Can't find a supplier for parts or troubleshooting info to verify my suspicions.
I guess, if all else fails, I could always take the "shotgun" approach and buy the complete panel with the  guarantee from Colaw.

scottydl said:

This is not scientific (well, maybe it is from a mechanical standpoint) but if you experience that situation, try and tap the metal box housing with a hammer. If the internal switch is stuck, it can get it seated correctly. You might remember doing that with starters on old cars, to get the solenoid engaged. Similar principle.

Long-term, I don't know if these switches can be disassembled and repaired, or if you'd just have to replace the whole unit.

Click to expand...

I've got the access panel off and a good sized screwdriver within reach for tomorrow morning.

I'm hoping the transfer switch portion is replaceable, because the complete unit contains all the 120v breakers and a sizeable 12v circuit board with about 10 or 12 12v fuses.  That's a whole bunch of wire swapping and I'm not looking forward to it.

First replacign the ATS part or even adding a different ATS and bypassing the built in one should be easy.

I would need to see it to be sure but I suspect yoru unit operates something like this.
With NO POWER the ATS is Defaulted to "Shore" that is Shore power is connected. relays (solenoids or contactors all mean same thing) are sitting there idle (not energrized)

Generator starts and a timer counts down and then the Relays pull in an TRANSFER.

IF the relays are getting AC power from teh generator (Actually how I'd do it more than likely) as opposed to DC from a circuit board.. Then if for any reason the contact can not pull all the way 8in. Say an insect on the end of the coil gettin squashed. You will get humm.

and a bad connection as well,.

But that's not the only cause.

Side note: On the way back to MI this spring I stopped for fuel Starter would not engage.. I heard a single CLICK (not the louder CLUNK of the starter solenoid)

Having a clue.> I opened the main chassis fuse panel and sure enough one of the relays is a starter pilot relay.. Cleaned the contacts and on the road again.

I'm thinking this is how your ATS works,, a control board operates a PILOT relay which then applies generator power to the solenoid.

My transfer switch was on the back of the power center then it went bad. I did not remove it instead The replacement sits on the floor of the compartment now, had to move 2 wires from shore power, two wires from generator and run 2 new wires to load center.

I do not have a genny, just genny prep.  My ATS is separate from the main power panel.  Separate units are available. 

The thing that puzzles me is that is works for 2 hours, THEN acts up!  In the morning, it is okay for a couple hours. 
What is overheating and why???  ATS relay??

My theory has to do with the really light load.  Just a coffee pot and the converter.  My bet is the contacts are shot and developing too much heat.  I did run the genny for several hours the first day we were here with no problem.
I just think the buzzing is the first stage of failure.
Did finally find a guy over on the other forum with the same power panel, and a link to a replacement switch.  For $30, I'll give it a shot.