repairing rusty cook top

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andonso

Active member
Joined
Apr 9, 2018
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Hello,

I'm restoring a 88 Okanagan E-150. The cook top appears to have had little use similar to the sink and frig.

The cook top is a Wedgewood W7103 three burner with what appears to be brushed stainless steel. Appears to have had little use, however the stainless top surrounding the burners has rust. (Also one of the burner knobs is missing)

I'm thinking of sanding it down with wet/dry sand paper, uncertain what grit would  start with medium then finish with  very fine. Then buff with some fine steel wool. I'm not certain if sanding will bring what appears to be stainless steel back again.

Another option may be to sand it down and paint it with some sort of high  heat paint such as engine paint. I've heard of people powder coating but I'm not close to  any paint shops and would prefer to restore myself.

Anyway I'm looking for any suggestions for restoration. I don't really want to replace it as the stove stop works as when new and fits perfectly into a shallow cut-out above a 3 way refrigerator.

pics

https://s25.postimg.cc/u3mpgibfz/DSC_9995.jpg

https://s25.postimg.cc/96qhbul4v/DSC_9993.jpg
 
See if a magnet will stick to it. If it's stainless steel, it will not stick. Then you can think about sanding it with a very fine grit then possibly buffing it.  If it's only steel, it will probably continue to rust unless you seal it with some type of high temperature paint. Looking at the pictures, I'm thinking it will be just steel. 
Hopefully others will have other ideas. 
 
I would start with a fairly fine grit, multiple zeros. and finish with chrome polish or an emery cloth. 

For the knob.. Ever think of a 3-D Printer or a person who has one?
 
Rene T said:
See if a magnet will stick to it. If it's stainless steel, it will not stick. 
Click to expand...

That's not completely true, some stainless steels are magnetic. Quite commonly used in the food processing industry so steel piecs don't get into food.
 
Could be galvanized metal rather than stainless - that is more likely to rust like that.  That surface could also be plated and the rust going down through it to the lesser metal underneath.

In any case, you've nothing to lose by sanding, since you can always paint it afterwards.  I'd start with a very coarse synthetic "wool" pad to get the worst of the rust off, then wet/dry #220 till the rust is gone.  If it seems to be cleaning up, you can move the grit up to #320 and then #600 and possibly #1500.  If it's not looking so good, stop sanding and paint. Use a high temp engine or BBQ paint. Chrome-silver if you want the original look, or whatever color rows your boat. I suspect you will find that the surface is pitted enough that polishing is insufficient and painting will be required.

If you like synthetic pads better than sandpaper, remember that 4/0 pads are equivalent to about 400 grit sandpaper. Here is a rough equivalence based on steel wool and 3M synthetic pads:


4/0 steel wool = 400 grit sandpaper
3/0 steel wool = 280 grit
2/0 steel wool = 180 grit
1/0 steel wool = 120 grit
1 steel wool = 100 grit
2 steel wool = 60 grit
3 steel wool = 50 grit
4 steel wool = 36 grit


White Scotchbrite = 1200 grit (it has no abrasive)
Gray Scotchbrite = about 400 - 600
Maroon Scotchbrite = about 220-280
Green Scotchbrite = about 150 - 180
 
Thanks for the advice.  A magnetic does stick to it.

I don't live near any large box stores and the one local  hardware store doesn't have a large selection of sand paper, paint, and other supplies.

So I'm going  to wait until I'm near a home depot to get paint and supplies.

I've been working pulling it's Hydroflame FA 7615 furnace. Which is sort of crusty from just sitting for many years. Okanagan  installed the furnace in a  tight space under the sink and power center.

The 3-way Dometic frig works ok, but the furnace currently not putting out any heat.

The RV was originally owned by a person from Palmer, Alaska and still has an Alaskan title which was lost by the second owner and the  original owner from AK has since past away. So I'm still in the process of trying to get a new title. 

Installed appliances

Hydroflame FA 7615 (gas)
Wedgewood W7103 (gas)
Dometic RM2301 (gas elec)
Jensen CP120 (elec)
Manchester 6102 (Gas)

Power Center

System Monitors Inc
Model: MSM 200 D
120 VAC - 15A AC
12V output 20 amp total
with 5A battery charger

 
Before using wet and dry sandpaper on it go over it with a wet Brillo Pad. You could be pleased with the results.
 
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