30 amp connection at a campsite

We are about to get out on our maiden voyage in our used Apex trailer.  This past weekend I sanitized the water system and in so doing got the water pump and water heater running.  The only problem we found in that system is a leak in the shower right where the shower hose connects to the wall. I am hoping it is an easy fix under the panel where the hot and cold water handles are.  This is only a long weekend trip and it only leaks when I turn on the shower water.  We can survive without the shower for the weekend if necessary.

But of more concern for me and my wife is the electric problem we found.  We connect up to the house current through a regular 3 prong plug at the house and a 30 amp plug at the trailer.  We ran the AC today and a couple of times the power to the AC cut out (also happened when we ran the microwave), a circuit breaker in the house tripped.  Doing a little research, it looks like the power from a regular plug is insufficient for the AC.  That got me thinking I need a 30 amp to 30 amp power cord for the campground or we will have the same issue there.  I am told the campsite is a 50 amp site.  Will it only have a 50 amp connection or will there likely be a 30 amp as well?  Should I get a converter extension so my 30 to 30 amp cord can be connected to a 50 amp outlet?

Thanks for any advice you can provide.
Bob

You definitely need a 30 amp cord so you can plug directly into 30 amp campground receptacles. If a campground has a 50 receptacle, there will be a 30 right next to it. It wouldn?t hurt to have a 50 to 30 adapter so you?re ready for that time that the 30 receptacle has an issue.


You are correct about plugging in to the house the way you did - a standard 15/20 amp circuit generally can?t support an AC if anything else is running. Sometimes you can get away with it, sometimes not

As mentioned it is standard for 50 amp rv camp sites to have both a 50 amp and a 30 amp outlet, many also have a standard household 15 amp GFCI outlet.  Having said that it is not uncommon to have a broken, damaged or missing 30 amp outlet.  If you carry a 30 amp cord, as well as a 50 amp to 30 amp step up dogbone adapter (be ware there are also 30 amp to 50 amp step down dogbones that let 50 amp RV's plug into 30 amp outlets) you will be prepared when you end up in a site that has a broken or missing 30 amp outlet, but a working 50 amp.

Ike

Hi Bobbyg,

I have a 30 amp RV and use house current to power my unit when out on the driveway. We have an electric dryer and the plug for that is a 20 amp. I can use that when my wife isn't using it for drying cloths. I use a converter plug that fits into my 30 amp cord for the motor home then can plug into a heavy duty electric cord which runs to the dryer plug. That will power my A/C but I don't try to run my microwave and A/C. Needless to say my wife is aware that she can't run the dryer when I am running the motor home and will say something to me before hand so we can disconnect the RV. I have checked the electric cord and it is cool to the touch but is a heavy duty cord made for that kind of power.

You wouldn't want to run a cheap cord or typical extension cord for this kind of use. Go to Harbor Freight or one of the many home improvement places and get a cord capable of handling this type of power.

There will likely be a 30 amp outlet there but you can get what we call a "Dogbone" connerctor at so many places it's almost easier to list where you can't.

Super stores.  Like Wal-mart, Lowes, Home depot. RV stores. Auto stores. all carry them

The "Dog bone" has a 50 amp plug on one end and a TT-30 outlet on the other short cord in between.

A standard house circuit SHOULD be able to run ONE air conditioner in an RV provided nothing else is drawing power.  Either on that circuit from another outlet or inside the RV.  But if it is 15 amp outlet.. It will be very very tight.

I carry a 50 AMP cord (20'+), a 50 amp to 30 amp adapter (short cord), and a 30 amp to 20 amp adapter (small plug adapter).  I can plug into a 50 amp, 30 amp, or my own home extension cord.

All of these were given to me with the RV when I purchased the unit used, from the dealer.  They were brand new, in a starter package.

They say that you may find that the 30 Amp outlet is damaged or just worn out because of use. There are many more 30 Amp RV's than 50 Amp so 30 Amp gets used more. Having a 50 to 30 Amp adapter allows you to use the 50 Amp outlet which may be in better condition. Here is the adapter:
http://www.progressiveindustries.net/50-30adapter
I also carry the 30 Amp male to 50 Amp female just in case I need it.  These adapters are a little pricey but they are my better than the one's you may buy at any RV store. I had one of those from a Walmart one time and it virtually started to melt from the inside out.
While you're on their Web Site, take a look at their surge protectors. They are the best on the market IMHO. A great insurance policy having one.

Don't assume that a 50 amp site will also have a 30 amp receptacle - sometimes they don't. It's best to be prepared with the proper adapter.

A standard house circuit SHOULD be able to run ONE air conditioner in an RV provided nothing else is drawing power.  Either on that circuit from another outlet or inside the RV.  But if it is 15 amp outlet.. It will be very very tight.

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That may be true if that outlet is the only one on that15A  branch circuit, but in most houses there will be multiple outlets sharing that 15 amps. If any other outlet is using some power, there probably won't be enough total power to handle that plus whatever the RV wants and the breaker will trip.

camperAL said:

Hi Bobbyg,

I have a 30 amp RV and use house current to power my unit when out on the driveway. We have an electric dryer and the plug for that is a 20 amp. I can use that when my wife isn't using it for drying cloths. I use a converter plug that fits into my 30 amp cord for the motor home then can plug into a heavy duty electric cord which runs to the dryer plug. That will power my A/C but I don't try to run my microwave and A/C. Needless to say my wife is aware that she can't run the dryer when I am running the motor home and will say something to me before hand so we can disconnect the RV. I have checked the electric cord and it is cool to the touch but is a heavy duty cord made for that kind of power.

You wouldn't want to run a cheap cord or typical extension cord for this kind of use. Go to Harbor Freight or one of the many home improvement places and get a cord capable of handling this type of power.

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CAUTION, CAUTION, CAUTION!!!! 
Unless you have something unusual, household clothes dryers are 240V.  Anyone trying to wire up an adapter plug for an RV to plug into this outlet must be absolutely sure the adapter plug/cord only goes to one of the hot legs of the dryer plug.  Otherwise you will wind up with 240 volts to your RV.  RV's are 120V only. 
Another caution:  If you have a 3 prong dryer outlet and make an adapter to power your RV will not have a 3rd wire safety ground to your RV.  You only have the hot and neutral return wires.

AStravelers said:

CAUTION, CAUTION, CAUTION!!!! 
Unless you have something unusual, household clothes dryers are 240V.  Anyone trying to wire up an adapter plug for an RV to plug into this outlet must be absolutely sure the adapter plug/cord only goes to one of the hot legs of the dryer plug.  Otherwise you will wind up with 240 volts to your RV.  RV's are 120V only. 
Another caution:  If you have a 3 prong dryer outlet and make an adapter to power your RV will not have a 3rd wire safety ground to your RV.  You only have the hot and neutral return wires.

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It may be that the dryer is propane like ours at our home and the drum runs off 110 Volt AC. They also gave me the impression that it did run the AC so that's telling me it's not 240 Volt AC that they're plugged into. I could be wrong.

Gary. just so you know. That's what I meant by "So long as NOTHING ELSE is drawing power either in the house or in the RV on that circuit..

You said it a bit more clearly than I so thanks.

If you need to plug in at home have a 30 amp outlet installed near where you park the trailer.  It does not cost much and solves a lot of problems.

johnaye said:

If you need to plug in at home have a 30 amp outlet installed near where you park the trailer.  It does not cost much and solves a lot of problems.

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I would suggest having a 50 amp outlet installed. Only slightly more expensive and much harder to install incorrectly. Plus, who knows, maybe you?ll buy a 50 amp rig someday

Sun2Retire said:

I would suggest having a 50 amp outlet installed. Only slightly more expensive and much harder to install incorrectly. Plus, who knows, maybe you?ll buy a 50 amp rig someday

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Excellent point. 

It does not cost much and solves a lot of problems.

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I think in many areas the cost of a professional install would be considered fairly high - $500 or more depending on the situation.  It's possible it could be $250 if the load center is handy and the wire run simple, but most will take more effort than that.  Of course, in a country or farm setting a handyman could perhaps do it for $100 or so, but electricians in metro areas are pricey.

Thanks so much for all the advice.  I picked up a new cord 30 amp to 30 amp with a 50 amp dog bone adapter.  The suggested I consider a surge protector.  I was not prepared to pay out that much today so decided to research and ask the question here.  Any recommendations?

A surge protector is an insurance policy, optional but wonderful to have when things go sour.  If you choose to get one, get the type that handles miswired outlets and high/low voltage conditions as well as simple power surges.  Progressive Industries or Surge Guard brands are excellent choices.

About the suggestion to add 50amp RV service in a house.

--  True RV 50 amp service is a pair of 50amp circuit breakers.  So in reality you are adding an additional 100amp load to the existing load in the house. 
--  A house has a certain total amp service built into the load panel(s).  That may be 250amp service or maybe more for a very large house.  My guess is that most houses could not take the extra 100amps as part of a building code legal install.
--  To have a licensed electrician come in and ask them to add an additional 100amp load, the first thing they are going to look at is to see if the house can take the extra 100amps.   
--  Chances are a dedicated 30amp RV outlet could be installed.

A 30amp circuit with a dogbone to the 50amp cord for the RV would run a single the air conditioner and the microwave.  That should work fine for temporary guests or to get your RV ready for travel. 

AStravelers said:

My guess is that most houses could not take the extra 100amps as part of a building code legal install.
--  To have a licensed electrician come in and ask them to add an additional 100amp load, the first thing they are going to look at is to see if the house can take the extra 100amps.   

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I'll let the electricians weigh in here but I do not believe this is correct. The total max load of the panel is protected by the main breakers, and the assumption when adding circuits is that not everything will be running at once. Plus, while indeed a "50 amp" RV can actually draw 100 amps total, the typical draw is closer to half of that even with two ACs running