Questions for you wood painters

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Rene T

Rene T

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We just picked up a new bookcase and it needs to be finished with polyurethane. I see that it comes in water based and oil based. Which would be the best to use. Will one retain it's clear natural color better than the other?  What grit paper do I use between coats.
If it makes a difference, according to the salesperson, the wood is Parawood Rubber Tree similar in density as maple.
 
My wife and I do a lot (several houses worth that we built from the ground up as well as many cabinets . desks, shelves, counters, etc) and prefer the oil base.
We use 220 grit  between coats and 400 just before the last.
Some hints:
- Work in a dust free environment
- Don't sand across the grain. Sand with it
Don't brush across the grain. Brush with it
- After you sand; between coats, use a tack cloth (a clean rag slightly  dampened with paint thinner) to wipe the surface free of dust.-
- when you are brushing the finish on always smooth it back toward the previous application
- Never go back over the previous application that has started to harden. Your strokes will show up

Keep in mind when you purchase it, there is Gloss, Semi gloss and Matt finish. The choice is yours.

Jack L

 
Good advice from Jack.  I've used both oil and water base and mostly prefer oil.  I don't see a difference in the results, but like working with oil-based stains better. 
 
Gary RV_Wizard said:
Good advice from Jack.  I've used both oil and water base and mostly prefer oil.  I don't see a difference in the results, but like working with oil-based stains better.
Click to expand...

While you were typing Gary, I was at Lowe's buying the oil base. Thanks anyway. Also thanks to Will and Jack.
 
Consider "wiping varnish".  That's what I did with our new solid Oak entry door two years ago.  It will take a bit of time, but the finish is beautiful.  The wiping varnish that we made was Oil based varnish (no longer available in Prop 55 California)  :mad:  and cut with turpentine IIRC.  If you can't find an article on the subject let me know and I'll dig up one that I've buried among the midst of um-teen thousand other articles I've downloaded. 

The nice thing about wiping varnish, it doesn't build up like heavier coats and will provide a very hard and IMHO, beautiful finish.  It's not brushed on so there is no brush marks.  Between coats is pretty much as described, but probably dry faster.  I finished an old desk with polyurethane 10 years ago and there's a night and day difference in finish and how well it holds up. 
 
For some woods (oak in particular) tung oil works very well. It may require several coats, but can be readily renewed with additional coats and wipes on very easily.  We've done a Club Table and chairs, Dining Table, and China Cabinet with excellent results.

Ernie
 
One thing about oil based finishes is that all brushes, spills ,rags, hands, etc need to be cleaned with Mineral Spirits.  So, then you have a small tub of spirits that you should filter back into the container or wait for it to separate  and pour back.  Not good for the planet to throw it outside.  Also, the finish itself is considered hazardous and needs to be disposed of properly, can't just take the top off and let it dry out like water based products.  And, you can only put one coat a day on as it takes a long time to dry. 

I'm a cabinetmaker by trade and I use both types of finish, but I much prefer to use water based when I can. Its so easy to use, can put on 3 coats a day and just use soap and water to clean and is environmentally sound.  In my opinion, it looks best on light colored woods such as maple, ash and birch as it stays clear and does not yellow like oil finishes do.  I like oil finishes for darker woods like cherry and walnut as it gives a warmer tone. 

Water based finishes have come a long way and offer lots of protection now, I always go that route when I can.
 
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