Redoing our floor

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cerd

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May 29, 2018
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I am changing the floor in our Class C. The old brown carpet just pulls up from the floor when I try to vacuum it out and my wife hates carpet anyways. I picked up a few boxes of 7mm T&G laminate flooring from Lumber Liquidators for $0.59/sq. ft. (75 sq ft should be enough for our small floor so it was less than $50.)

I plan to cut around the cabinets and butt up against them with the new flooring. I like the carpet lining the storage areas since it keeps things from sliding around.

Since I am nailing down all of the planks into the floor, I did not bother with underlayment. Plus, I thought the vibration of the OSB subfloor might wear through any underlayment that I put down, rather quickly.

Is there anything that I am overlooking?
 
Just two thoughts...

1) Nailing it down ought to hold it, but RVs flex a lot. Don't be surprised if the planks seprate or twist after some road trips.

2) What does the flooring manufacturer say about expansion gaps? Most laminate needs a gap at the edges to accommodate expansion/contraction caused by temperature change and humidity. Temp swings in an RV are far greater than in most home installations.
 
We suppose I need to replace the flooring in my bed slide out. What material should I use to do it correctly.  Thank you.
 
Sharshep said:
We suppose I need to replace the flooring in my bed slide out. What material should I use to do it correctly.  Thank you.
Click to expand...
Whatever your heart desires. Sheet linoleum is popular. I was going to use that, but in a small class C, there is too much stuff in a small area; making it difficult to make every cut perfect to match the fixtures. Slide outs don't usually have much in the way, so you should be fine.
 
Vinyl plank is easy to work with so convenient for areas with lots of cuts or angles.  Use the better brands that interlock, not the ones with sticky side bands.  Or vinyl tiles. If self-stick tiles, again the better (more expensive) brands have superior adhesives, a wise choice for RV application. Better yet, get non-stick tiles and use a quality floor adhesive.

For a best-quality job, use engineered wood plank or tile.  It's more expensive and takes a but more skill, but it's a superior flooring product.

If you prefer a warmer floor, carpet is always an option.
 
Pardon, but I miswrote. I need to replace the base floor of the small bedroom slide out on my Article Fox. Water damaged. Then I will replace the carpet. Thanks for your quick responses.
 
Sharshep said:
Pardon, but I miswrote. I need to replace the base floor of the small bedroom slide out on my Article Fox. Water damaged. Then I will replace the carpet.
Click to expand...

How badly damaged is the wood floor? Is it so rotted that you can push a screwdriver through it?

If the wood is stained and only slightly damaged, you may be able to re-condition the existing wood floor. I used a product called Minwax Wood Hardener, purchased at a local Lowes off the shelf, when I replaced the flooring in our MH and needed to repair the basic plywood under-floor. This hardener is thin and runny and quickly soaks into the wood before it cures. It turns into a tough plastic-like material that greatly stiffens and reinforces the plywood, and the Minwax stuff is also advertised to provide a degree of water blocking/sealing against any possible future water leaks. You would need some disposable brushes to spread it around, and in closed spaces you will need to hold your breath as you pour (and then get out of your vehicle while it cures).

Since I am a belt-and-suspenders sort of person, I also applied a healthy top coat of polyurethane varnish as an additional sealant.

I hope some bit of that info is useful to you.....
 
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